How to Replace a Primer Bulb
Replacing primer bulbs in small engines is one of the most common types of tool repairs, and this article explains professional steps for primer bulb replacement in two engine design types.
How to Replace Trimmer Fuel Lines
Grass trimmers commonly need their fuel lines and other system comenents replaced, and this article offers professional repair advice for performing a trimmer fuel line replacement.
How to Replace Trimmer Line
Become a line reloading expert with this article's steps for replacing line in three different trimmer head types: single line, double line, and Speed-Feed heads.
Discussion
Discussion for the Troy-Bilt TB575SS (Big Red)(41ADT57C966) Gas Trimmer
Is there a carb rebuild kit available for this component? When I took the carb apart, I found debris that I believe was causing the issue of poor performance. However, one of the small gaskets was damaged. Is a rebuild kit available, and also a schematic of the carb (either in drawings or photos)? I hate to spend $50 when a rebuild kit is $5. Thanks, Mike
I have oil coming from the breather tube into the carburetor. When I turn over the motor, with the air filter cover off, oil spits out of a disk or valve on the left-hand side. This valve is connected to the breather tube going to the crankcase. I am losing power as the motor runs. Yes, I think I know the answer, but would like a second or third opinion.
I have one doing the same . I'm guessing that the rings and/or the cylinder is worn enough to allow blow-by thus forcing oil out the breather. It's been used hard for about 3 seasons. what was your idea?
you need remove spark plug and insert shoe lies into the cylinder to block cylinder from moving w/o braking or scratching inside cylinder and move shaft to lock the cylinder, then remove screw from the shaft that is holding clutch. Hope this helps.
Reply: Clutch Removal And Starter Housi...
WJA
Hello John Portwood,
As dpolalex said there are a few tricks involving the removal of the clutch from a trimmer. We have prepared an article and video to help you with your repair. Here is a link to it, How to Remove a Trimmer Clutch.
Steve,
The clutch is threaded on. You will need to lock the crankshaft in order to spin it off. If you don't have the right tool, you might try what I did. Remove the spark plug and find bottom dead center before the compression stroke. Fill the combustion chamber with oil and re-install the spark plug. Now you will be able to spin the clutch off.
I can't remove the outer spool on my Troy-Bilt weed eater to replace it! I got the inner spool with the wire on it out but I can't get the rest off. If anyone knows how to help please let me know.
I have the troy-bilt 575ss split boom. The square hole in the adapter to receive other attachments is rounded out. Can I purchase this flexible drive shaft?
I have the same problem. Looking at the IPB, it looks like you will have to purchase the entire Upper Drive Shaft Assembly (Item #6 at $45.47). I have been searching the net to see if I can get just the flex shaft, but so far no luck. I'm sure that if I do find it, it should only cost around $10.
I have removed all the internal keeper springs yet the housing seems to be held in place. I want to pull the string spool housing off to replace it with a larger capacity spool. Clues ?
I have replaced the starter gear and pull cord (nylon gear was worn bad), Still the cogs on the flywheel do not engage tightly enough to start the engine. This Troy-Bilt Weedeater that I bought all the attachments for, has never worked like my friends. Do you have any solution to this problem? If I install a new flywheel and starter gear do I have any chance it will work then or am I wasting money on parts?
The first thing you might want to do is check the spring loaded engaging tabs on the flywheel (starter dogs), these get gummed up from dust and debris and don't spring back to their original position sometimes. You don't need to remove the flywheel to clean these, use a small brass or fiber brush and remove the accumulation from around them, move them back and forth. When released they should come back to the stop tab that rests against one of the flywheel cooling fins. A tiny amount of 3-in-one oil or reg. motor oil can be applied to the tabs to keep them moving freely. If they don't spring back properly they will not engage the gears on the starter pulley properly and will slip. When the motor starts, the centrifugal force keeps them away from the pulley teeth. They go back to the starting position when the motor is stopped. I would try this before I spent big bucks on a new flywheel & pulley setup. Hope this helped. Roy.
Reply: Pull Starter Won
Willie
I'm having the same problem. I thought buying a 4 stroke would solve most of my problems, namely the gas mixture clogging the fuel lines and the carb. I only used mine a few times and found the same problem with the PLASTIC cog wheel that the centrifugal starter parts grab when starting. If they had only made a metal cog wheel I think it would have lasted a lot longer. Let me know if you have found any solutions.
Removal of the clutch drum isn't too hard of a project at all if you know a few tricks first. We have prepared an article and video that will provide you with all of the information you will need to remove the clutch drum. You can find the article and video at the following link...
[QUOTE=jimkc;7442]Engine starts without problem. But when I pull the trigger the head does not turn. Any ideas what the problem is?"
I have the same problem at one time. you might try taking shaft rod were they connect togather and make when you snap them back togather the male and female parts of the square ends connect and that does not work. you may have to housing off to get the clutch
to take the clutch rotor off there is a small screw down in side the small shaft of the clutch rotor, make sure the clutch contacts the rotor.
Reply: Troy-Bilt TB575SS
Dannie
Clutch drum and drive line have separated do to wear but the drive line will shift away from the clutch drum spindle and thus disengage. I have seem many TroyB with the drive line screws never inserted at the factory. In the future do not buy this product.
Troy Bilt used to be one of the best names in yard equipment (used to). I thought I'd give them another try since the Stihl dealer was closed. The fourth time I used the thing, it started dying. Clogged carb (loose piece of gasket). Fifth time both of the fuel lines broke off at the tank. Sixth time primer bulb cracked. Seventh time? Don't know but I didn't buy a weed-eater to work ON, I bought IT to WORK on the YARD. It has 12 hours on it- well cared for and is the biggest, slowest, weakest piece of junk I have ever owned. Never again. Thanks for the lesson.
I purchased Model TB575SS (41ADT57C711) unit 4 years ago. Unit was manufactured April 2006. The weed trimmer was used about 10 times a year in the yard. The trimmer performed excellent until now. The trimmer was very well cared for.
Out of the blue the crankshaft sheared at the inboard bearing next to the piston! Visual examination with the oil cover removed indicated the crank shaft sheared right at the face of the inboard bearing. The cylinder wall appears SAT and so does the piston without complete dis-assembly. Obviously the failure cannot be cyclic fatigue, not enough run time! The oil was changed 3 times a year. Manual states to change oil every 25 hours of use after initial break in. The unit only ran about 30 minutes each day of use. 300 minutes of run time equates to about 5 hours of use each season, therefore the oil is not the issue. The only thing that can cause this type of failure is a manufactured defect in the crankshaft assembly or there might have been an issue during assembly of the unit. One would think something else would have failed before the crankshaft! No I wouldn't recommend a Troy-Bilt, based on this event, to anyone.
I will never buy another Troy Bilt product again. Every piece of equipment I have gotten has failed soon after I bought it. This Trimmer has never worked properly. I bought a leaf blower that failed about the third time I used it. The trimmer is hard to start and the trimmer string does not unwind as soon as you put it in. Piece of junk.
You probably should have known it was going to be hard to start when the same model was right beside it with a electric starter option. But anyway sorry to hear about your problems. I bought the 4 stroke Troy-bilt last year and I love it,lots of power,no mixing of fuel and mine starts pretty easily once I figure out that when it fired and started to let it idle for a couple minutes without touching the throttle. Also keep the valves adjusted. I work it extremely hard and it just keeps on knocking down what I put in front of It.
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