Hello Jim,

The manufacture does not supply that shaft only. The complete motor assembly would have to be purchased. You can buy a new compressor for less money anyway. But you may be able to find a used one or one that has not been repaired at a service center and use the parts off of it.

Good luck,
-WJA

Hello wlcoker12,

In some of their compressor models the manufacture supplies a regulator repair kit. Unfortunately with this model number they do not. You would need to order the complete manifold assembly. Or you might try a local compressor service center in your area to see if they have any parts that would work for your compressor.

Hope this helps,
-WJA

Inspect the Check Valve. Remove the hose at the valve and create a low pressure on it, yep suck with your mouth if u have to. If you can draw air, your check vale is not working, and tank air will escape through the little pin hole in the cylinder head. When replacing valve, use a 7/8ths deep socket, and get your wife to hang onto the tank. Take the valve out making sure no thread sealer or paint slips into the tank. Tighten in new valve and perform break in period as per manual. If you are unlucky and this doesn't work, take the thing apart, they're simple, but pay attention to the routing of wiring, the fan will chew it to bits if you don't.

If you have the schematics for your compressor than you'll see on there what is called a Tube Seal. That is what needs to be replaced...guaranteed!

Hi Frank,

Where is the air leak coming from?

-Mark

If it is leaking around the cylinder head, it is probably the check valve

Hi Jim,

I cannot confirm whether the C2006 compressor has a fuse or not. I don't think that it does. My guess to the source of the problem is either the power switch or the pressure switch. You will need to open up the compressor to test these items. You can test both using a multimeter.

The power switch is part #D28870 and the pressure switch is part #A10375. Both are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

there is a 20amp inside the case.

Hi Dan,

If the broken part is piece with the male threads on it that screws into the manifold then all you will need is a new gauge. If the part with the female threads is broken then that is the manifold and it will need to be replaced. There are two different gauges on the compressor. The tank pressure gauge is part #A17166 and the regulated pressure gauge is part #A17135. The manifold is part #A19905 and includes both gauges, the regulator and the quick couplings. All of these parts are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Frank,

I sounds like your cylinder and piston are worn out. They will need to be replaced. They are sold as a kit which is part #KK-4964 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Tim,

If the gauge stopped showing pressure but the compressor seems to be working fine otherwise then I would suspect a bad gauge. Replacing the gauge should have you up and running again.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Keith,

Porter Cable does not offer any of the manifold parts individually. The manifold is only sold as an assembly. The Manifold is part #1000002226 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

How stupid! I have the same problem. Glad to see someone else identify it. Was hoping to find a gasket though. They want us to buy a $50 part for a 10 cent gasket failure! I'm sure sorry I bought this brand. Sorry sorry sorry service! Kieth, if you still are here and found one, let us know where to get it. This seems like a common complaint.

Keith, the problem is that there is a small O ring in the inside facing side of that "regulator float" that has fallen out. This keeps air from coming through the middle of that part when it is up against the regulator pin inside. Amazing! I just happened to see it on my bench when about to give up. Started looking to see if was from the regulator and whala...I saw a small hole in the middle of that float part. I thought it was the outside gasket on that part leaking, but it is simply that the O ring dropped out.

I guess that means one should always have pressure on the regulator to keep that O ring seated. But then, we know we cannot get new gaskets, so then what? Guess we'll cross that when we get to it.

Hope this helps someone! Mine works like new now.

Hi Brian,

Unfortunately, Porter Cable does not offer any of the parts for the motor and pump assembly separately. If there is damage to the motor or the pump you will need to replace the entire assembly. The motor and pump assembly is part #Z-A04615.

There should be no need to worry about any timing with this pump.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Ok 24 hours have gone by. In that time I took the drain valve off and found out the O ring on it was torn so I put a new one on and in the process I Black Oxided the center valve screw. Thats the actual Black Oxide process not the phosphorus one.:rolleyes: It should keep it from rusting for a good while. I'll have to spray some light oil in it from time to time. I think I'll do it whenever I drain it.

I propped it up on it's side with the piston faceing down and sprayed some Liquid Wrench L4 Foaming Penetrant and Lubricant and turned it a few times to coat the valves and cyclinder walls about 10 minutes before I put it back together.:cool: I didn't torque the head down any farther then what my hand would do with I 5/16 nut dirver. I'll 160 soaking wet so It's not all that tight. I didn't put any locktight on the screws and I'm wondering if I should've.


I put the whole thing back together and fired it up and it pressured right up with no leaks.:D
I'll let it sit pressued up for a while before I put it through a duty cycle.

Had leakeage around the same area, found a pin hole on the cylinder cover, but upon inspection it looks like it should go there, can't figuire it out as of yet. I don't want to buy a new cover and find out that the hole should be there.

Hey northfork,
You do have to get the piston assy out of the way to replace the belt..once it is removed.[also check the piston and cylinder for wear ] as far as the belt goes..start with the smaller pulley and install the belt underneath the lip up the pulley..and the line up the rest of the belt with the slots on the larger pulley and then 'feed on slightly' turning the fan a little, and then the belt will push on fairly easy and then reassemble everything else:)
The screw is on pretty tight but you should be able to break it loose..lefty loosy..righty tighty on this one..
hope this helps..
cmoorejack

Thanks. I'll try that. I especially appreciate the tip about the threading of screw. I didn't want to overtighten it if it were backwards-threaded. I had even looked at a picture of the screw to try to determine the threading. Thanks again for your prompt and knowledgeable reply.

Thanks CMooreJack, worked like a charm. Me and my carpal tunnel prone wrists thank you.
All I need now is the proper sized hose clamp to get everything back air-tight, and I'll be bangin' nails!

Hey rhelmore,
The hole actually doesn't go all the way thu the head and has no real function..[its a dead end ]..The air escaping is probably coming from a bad tube seal..item # 104..part # CAC-1212..be sure and check the tube for damage also... most of the time its just a bad tube seal..they go bad from heat build up..and check the valve plate..a valve may be broken and causing the heat.. *since your air compressor is fairly new and hardly used the repair should be minor..*
Hope this is helpful..:)
Craig

I'm having the same problem, looking at the picture, the "hole" or indention has a tiny pin hole at the bottom that does go all the way through, I was thinking that it was suppose to go there, but after reading this I think not. Other than the mounting holes for the screws, it should have any "through" holes on the cover (CAC1196) right? Please advise.

Hey,
I am holding two of these in my paws right now..[used] I will be danged if one has a small pin hole and the other doesn't..I have never really had to change the the head before..so im not sure if the pin hole is deliberate [doesn't make sense..] or not..so the pin hole could be the cause of the problem...or it could be the difference between the types..hmnn..
I will check with the factory techs and see whats up..!
cmoorejack

cmoorejack,

That is the exact same problem I am having with my Dewalt compressor. I can't see a pin hole but air is sometimes leaking out of the same hole that rhelmore referenced.

Do porter cable and dewalt use the same parts for the compressor? Mine is also around 2 years old and has been lightly used.

Hey Buckeye96
I am still waiting to hear back from Dewalt..I don't think there should be a pin hole and it may be a condition or result of other parts wearing out or getting too link removed the case of not filling past 50 lbs..the cylinder/piston is more likely the problem..you will need to inspect for wear ..[any grooves in the cylinder or a broken lip seal on the piston] also that darn tube seal..since the cylinder head is readily available as a part replacement it may also be a link removed and porter cable are the same company now and they do use similar parts but is best to order the exact replacement part for your specific brand, model, and type..just in case:)
cmoorejack

Cmoorejack,

Sorry i wasn't clear. It will pump all the way up but after 50psi it starts hissing air. I know it is coming out of the hole we referenced before (stuff something in there and the hissing stops). The other confusing part is that it isn't all the time. Sometimes it won't leak and other times it will.

I assume I just need to replace the head. What else should I replace while I am in there? Gaskets and such?

thanks for all your help

Hey buckeye96,
upon inspection replace whatever looks damaged or worn..:)
I would pay close attention to the valve plate assy and tube seal..
Happy repairing...!
cmoorejack

I have the same problem. What's the deal? My guy told me that there was a batch of bad ones from the manufactuer and repaired it free of charge. I just complained a lot. try that. It's wierd that they would make it so hard for us to fix. Quirrks like that in the system really bug me.

good luck. and read your manual.. there's tips about how to get free/discounted repairs! It's all how you present yourself :)

peace

To finish up my story. I got the parts from eReplacement parts. It was a pin hole in the cylinder head. Put everything back together and the compressor ran well and filled the tank. I put the black box into the cradle and turned it on again to make sure it was okay. It ran fine for 10 seconds then I heard the fan starting to come loose, it made a 'pop' sound and smoke started coming from the black box. I unplugged it and clipped the power cord.

I found a new Hitachi EC119SA for clearance at Lowe's for $142. It isn't oil free or as light as the Dewalt but it is a lot more powerful and hopefully will last a lot longer than 2 years.

Try inspecting the check valve. Unplug and drain the unit of air. Remove the clamp and hose at the valve and try to draw air in with your mouth from the valve inlet. If you can, the valve is not working properly and tank air will leak back out if the pinhole in the head which is an atmospheric vent. To remove the valve use a 7/8ths deep socket and get your wife to hang onto the tank. Be sure not get any thread sealant residue or paint, or anything into the tank. Clean the threads with a clean fingertip. The new valve has a rubbery thread sealant. Tighten it all up and put a new clamp on the hose. Perform run in procedure as per manual.

Hey K,
Thanks for the update..I am glad you got your problem resolved..:)..[I rechecked my post and read that I also recommended you replace the safety valve..just making sure I gave you enough complete information..! ]
Thanks again for the update..!
Craig

Hey king,
you should only replace the pressure switch with the correct one...I think the problem that you are having is that the ps is of course not shutting off..so replace it with the correct replacement..and you might want to change out the safety valve to a 165 psi..[the tank is actually rated at 300 psi..uh.. until it blows up..that is why the safety valve is so important..:)
pressure switch..# A10375 replace that and the air comp should function properly..I also posted an answer to you on the parts ordering forum...
hope this helps..:)
Craig

Hey Carmen,
Replacing the belt is fairly easy..it's removing the motor assy..separating the clam shell housings,removing the piston assy out of the way and then putting everything back together without getting the cord caught in the fan...:)
As far as replacing the belt..start with installing the belt on the smaller pulley [make sure the belt is all the way under the lip] line up the slots on the larger pulley and 'feed' on while turning the fan[a little bit]..once the belt is lined up on the pulley it push's right on..
Hope this helps..
cmoorejack

Hi indoruwet,

The type number will be on the same tag as the model number. It should have "Type" spelled out although occasionally you will see one listed as "T-". If there is no type number listed then you usually have to assume that the tool is a type 0. The type 0 is the first production run before any service changes were made.

I hope this answers your question.

-UtahAV
-Mark

Thank you.

Hey king,
I am not sure if there is a lower switch rating for that specific air comp..but it might be easier to just switch out the safety valve to a 165 or a 200..[the tank is actually safety rated at 300 psi..as long as your air comp shuts off at 150 and you can adjust the air out thru the regulator you should be ok...:)
Hope this helps..
Craig

I replaced part #KK-4964. It works, however it ran for about 3 minutes and then started blowing air at the copper tube going into the head. Is this part 104 that needs to be replaced? It seems to be.