How to Diagnose a Bad Power Cord or Switch
This article outlines the basics of power tool and appliance electrical diagnosis. You can use a multimeter to test tool and appliance cords and switches, the two parts usually responsible for electri...
Remove saw blade & belt cover, loosen belt & remove, remove power head pulley, remove power head cover (on blade side) with two gears and shafts, remove inner bearing retainer, then carefully tap on pulley shaft (with screw put back in place) to remove upper bearing and shaft with gear. Remove snap-ring from gear and press shaft out of bearing. (Can be done by careful tapping with hammer & wood block, don\'t risk deforming the shaft, gear, or or pin-bearing end.) Install new bearing on gear shaft and replace snap-ring. I also found the intermediate bearing was rough and found it more difficult to remove. Remove the 3 torx screws on bearing retainer, (there is another snap ring somewhere too), and using thin levers (brake adjusting tools worked) pry the bearing out of the housing. Press or tap the gear shaft out of the bearing and replace. Grease all gears and pin-bearing ends and reassemble. Be sure to get all bearing parts fully seated and replace both snap rings. Especially note that the upper drive bearing must be fully seated and the retainer tightened all the way or the gear will rub on the screw head. Plan on taking some time with this, work carefully so as not to damage pin-bearing ends of shafts or the woodruff key slot on the pulley shaft.
Is "genuine DeWalt replacement part" in the description of "Ball Bearing 6302V a representation: 1. That the part fits?
2. That the part is O.E.M?
3. That the part meets DeWalt specifications for original manufacture?
4. All the above?
5. None of the above?
As you are aware, there are many manufactures of ball bearings, and the 6302V is a very common bearing. I would think that Dewalt uses a bearing manufacture that meets their specifications and quality for the tools they manufacture.
I have a DW716 Miter saw Type 1 that is having issues. the main problem that i can't seem to fix is with the electric break. It will kick on sometimes, and sometimes it won't. I replaced the brush holder ring and brushes, but it didn't do anything. I also checked all the wiring, which was all correct. Any help or ideas?
Sometimes the new brush's will have to seat in before the brake will function link removed the saw for a few minutes and see if it improves..[if the commutator is worn down or uneven it may have to have a seat stone applied to remedy]..you could also have a problem with the switch..[it is actually putting the saw in reverse when the trigger is released..] last but not least is the field..it may have a part of the winding that is to weak to carry the reverse polarity..
parts avail at ereplacementparts.com..
Hope this helps..?
saws with electric brakes will make some noise as the switch is released..but if you have a growling or grinding noise it may be time to go in and investigate..check for gear damage..[most common]..a bearing ready to fail..loose blade..[check first!]..
breakdown and parts avail at ereplacementparts.com..
hope this helps..:)
Reply: Dewalt Double Miter
Picked up the same saw about 10 days ago. The box was open with the blade mounted. I argued that it must have been used and got a $100 discount! Made them plug it in and run it before I left the store. All was well for about 200 cuts. Then it started to make an outrageous howl when the brake kicked in on release of trigger. I checked the blade by locking it, trying to hand spin it. Sure seemed tight. So I opened it up to look at the belt. Kept cycling and recycling it trying to figure out where that scream was coming from. It finally began to scream on both start and stop. Then the blade finally spun loose enough that it was obvious. Next time I'll know.
My old saw, a Craftsman, was 25 years old. I can't remember ever having to retighten the blade - and I'd bet it made over 10,000 cuts. But it was only a 10" blade.
In taking it apart - there's a little compartment forward of the trigger handle, above the belt guard, that had two little electrical plugs in it, one male, one female. They weren't connected. They couldn't be connected as they were just slightly different sizes. Are these supposed to be used with the laser attachment? I don't need a laser, don't trust 'em. And after 10,000 cuts I can sight down the blade.
Figured I'd get registered and post this - maybe save another guy the hour I lost messing with it.