Ball Bearing

1. Removed the End Cap.
2. Carefully searched for pieces of the broken Magnet Ring.
3. I used the Gear/Ball Bearing Puller to removed the Ball Bearing (Is supposed that the Puller help to remove the Ball Bearing without damage it, but that wasn't my case, luckily I bought also a replacement of the ball bearing).
4. I found the inner piece/ring of the magnet ring still mounted, so, I used a flat head screw driver to remove it, this helped me to see what is the right side to put in place the new one.
5. To put in place the new ball bearing I have used a hammer and a socket with the same size of the inner race of the bearing.
6. Then placed again the End Cap.

Since the original bearing flew apart after I disassembled the motor housing and tested its operation. I cut off the remaining bearing race with my Dremel tool using the cut off disk. I then installed the new bearing using a long socket with a connection size slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft for the bearing. I ensured that the surface of the bearing being driven against was kept flat with a heavy, thick washer so the force did not cause the bearing to come apart. I then used my 5-pound sledgehammer and two pieces of scrap 2 x 4s to protect both ends of the shaft and the long socket.
I used this method since I neither have a small gear/bearing puller nor a press.

Removed and replaced bearings and some cover screws.

The most important tool to have is a gear/bearing puller.without one it could be very very hard to replace,

Removed case top
Moved speed control aside, disconnecting positive and negative spade connectors.
Removed remaining pieces of magnet, by breaking off with large flat screw driver.
Pulled bearing off with gear puller
Cleaned dust and other residue from top of coils
Installed magnet with thread locker fluid per Dewalt note
Pressed New bearing on with arbor press
Installed case top
Let sit 24 hours to allow thread lock to dry

Removed front housing,
Used snap ring pliers to remove snap ring,
Used different sized sockets on bench vise to remove broken spindle and front housing bearing.
By using sockets to straddle spindle and slowly tightening vise it works like a manual press and spindle pushes out easily.
Bearing and spindle can then be installed using same idea.

I watched a youtube video on how to get to, remove, and , replace bearing. I bought brushes just to be pro active, but the replacement brushes were for the next newer model saw, but luckily the old brushes were still fine. Bearings fit great and job was not that tough.

1. Removed armature cover.
2. Identified damaged ball bearing on armature.
3. Used bearing puller to remove damaged bearing.
4. Removed damaged retaining ring.
5. Installed new retaining ring.
6. Pressed and gently tapped new ball bearing onto armature.

Shook the blade till I noticed where the movement was, which was at the bearing at the end of the field casing. Managed to finagle the whole motor, casing and all off the gearing and eventually got the casing off the armature and noticed the bearing was seized. its lack of movement caused the bearing casing to rub against where it was seated and rub and melt away the tight fit till it was loose, causing some slack action. Pulled the bad bearing and replaced it with the new one, fit it all back into the new field casing and assembled it. works like new!

1. Typed in blade wobble for a DW706 miter saw in U-Tube and found a video that showed me everything to do. Everything in on U-Tube.
2. Replaced the two main bearings and the two needle baring assemblies.
3. Replaced the spindle gear, but probably didn't need to.
4. Put saw back together and still had blade wobble. Took off the blade and noticed the washer that fits inside the blade was worn pretty badly. Ordered a replacement, which cost about $3.50 and put the new washer on and all is well:)