Carburetor kits contain all the components for stripping down and rebuilding your carburetor. We have included this part not because it will cause any problems, but because it is a great way to keep your engine running smoothly and efficiently. When rebuilding the carburetor, it’s a good idea to take pictures of all the parts as your take it apart so you’re aware of where they go during reassembly. A quick note, also, that the following procedure will vary from model to model. Please take it as a general guide to tearing down and rebuilding your carburetor, and follow your owner’s guide when applying it to your own snow blower.
Start by removing the chute gear box support bracket. Next, remove any covers or shrouds around the carburetor so you can gain access to it. You may have to remove the handle bar to pull the covers off. For some models,...
Carburetor kits contain all the components for stripping down and rebuilding your carburetor. We have included this part not because it will cause any problems, but because it is a great way to keep your engine running smoothly and efficiently. When rebuilding the carburetor, it’s a good idea to take pictures of all the parts as your take it apart so you’re aware of where they go during reassembly. A quick note, also, that the following procedure will vary from model to model. Please take it as a general guide to tearing down and rebuilding your carburetor, and follow your owner’s guide when applying it to your own snow blower.
Start by removing the chute gear box support bracket. Next, remove any covers or shrouds around the carburetor so you can gain access to it. You may have to remove the handle bar to pull the covers off. For some models, the carburetor is already exposed, so you will not have to remove anything to gain access to it. You may have to remove the handle bar on some models to pull off the covers. On other models, you may have to remove the throttle knob, disconnect any switches and fuel lines on the primer bulb, and remove that particular cover. Locate the bolts holding the carburetor onto the engine and air intake, and remove. Remove the choke lever carefully. Pinch off the fuel line to prevent fuel spill, then remove the fuel line and slide the choke control plate off the carburetor and disconnect the linkage form the control plate, then the carburetor. Next, disconnect the throttle rod return spring and remove the throttle rod from the carburetor. The carburetor should now slide right off. Lie on a bench and start disassembly by removing the nut on the bowl then remove the bowl and gasket. Next, remove the float pin and the needle valve. Unscrew the main jet screw and dump it out with the emulsion tube, then remove the plastic throttle stop and the metering plug out of the carburetor. Spray the carburetor, fuel bowl, and all the small orifices with carburetor cleaner, then wipe clean. If you notice any corrosion inside the carburetor or the bowl, it is beyond repair and you will need a need carburetor. Reinstall the new emulsion tube and new main jet and tighten. Install the new metering plug down tight and reinstall the throttle stop screw and thread until it sticks out the other side about 1/16 of an inch.
Next, install the new spring on the needle valve and snap the new needle valve into the new float and reattach the float into the carburetor by sliding the new pin in. Install the new bowl O-ring and reinstall the bowl and tighten down. Once rebuilt, reinstall the carburetor and the gasket onto the engine, reattach the throttle cable and fuel line. Un-pinch the fuel line. Reinstall the cover that houses all the knobs, switches, and the primer bulb, making sure you hook everything back up correctnly. Reinstall all the covers and shrouds and the handle bar. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket, then reapply the tension on the drive belt and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up with the chute facing forward, and that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position then reinstall the rod.
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