Laminate Trimmer: Motor Gets Hot
If the motor of your laminate trimmer gets hot, handle with care. Wait until it has completely cooled off before you begin any repairs. Once it has cooled, check the fan, carbon brushes, bearings, armature, field, and cooling ports. If you notice damage to a particular part, read on for further repair advice on how you can fix it. Refer to your owner's manual for information relating specifically to your model.
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Cooling ports allows air to flow in and out of the laminate trimmer. Check to make sure they are not blocked. Clean out with a small screwdriver and lightly blow compressed air through them to clean them out.
Cooling ports allows air to flow in and out of the laminate trimmer. Check to make sure they are not blocked. Clean out with a small screwdriver and lightly blow compressed air through them to clean them out.
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Armatures
The armature is located inside the field of the motor and is the power-producing unit. An armature with a heavy build-up of dirt can overheat or, if the armature itself is shorting out, will produce excessive sparks, leading to an overheating motor. Repair procedures will vary on all models, but the repair will be similar.
To check the condition of the armature, remove the base and the motor housing. Remove the tension springs on the carbon brushes and take out the brushes. On some models, this is done by removing the brush caps on the side of the unit. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft then place a rag, or glove, and hold on to...
To check the condition of the armature, remove the base and the motor housing. Remove the tension springs on the carbon brushes and take out the brushes. On some models, this is done by removing the brush caps on the side of the unit. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft then place a rag, or glove, and hold on to...
The armature is located inside the field of the motor and is the power-producing unit. An armature with a heavy build-up of dirt can overheat or, if the armature itself is shorting out, will produce excessive sparks, leading to an overheating motor. Repair procedures will vary on all models, but the repair will be similar.
To check the condition of the armature, remove the base and the motor housing. Remove the tension springs on the carbon brushes and take out the brushes. On some models, this is done by removing the brush caps on the side of the unit. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft then place a rag, or glove, and hold on to the end of the armature shaft as you use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Use a rubber mallet to tap the armature free of the housing.
Clean the armature only with electrical contact cleaner, to remove any heavy build up of debris. Once it is cleaned, inspect the armature for burn marks that indicates excessive sparking, leading to excessive heat. If the armature has burn marks, it should be replaced.
To verify if an armature is good, or has gone bad, there are three test to use when checking an armature. The first test is a continuity test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. Attach one end of the ohmmeter to the shaft, for ground, and the other to the bar on the commutator. Move the probe to each bar on the commutator, checking all bars. If the ohmmeter shows a reading on one of the bars, this will indicate a short and a bad armature.
The second test is a bar-to-bar test, determining resistance. Attach one probe to a bar on the commutator and the other probe on the bar right beside it. There will be a specific reading for this, depending on the design of the armature. But, most importantly, you do not want a large fluctuation here between values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, this will indicate there is a broken, or burned out, wire in the coil. If the resistance drops, then there is a short. Move around the commutator, checking each bar.
The third test is the 180-degree test. Attach the two ends of the ohmmeter on the commutator bars, directly across from each other. There will be a specific set of readings for this, depending on the design of your unit. Again, what is most important is that there is not a large fluctuation in values, which would indicate fault. If there is an increase in resistance, that would indicate a broken, or burnt out, wire. If the resistance drops, that would indicate that there is a short. Continue this test on all the bars. If an armature fails any of these tests, it is recommended that you replace it.
Install the armature into the housing and tap it in place with a rubber mallet. Reinstall the chuck with an impact wrench, followed by the collet. Rejoin the two halves of the motor housing, lining up the reference marks. Reinstall the brushes and reapply the tension on the brushes. Reattach the motor cover and then the base.
To check the condition of the armature, remove the base and the motor housing. Remove the tension springs on the carbon brushes and take out the brushes. On some models, this is done by removing the brush caps on the side of the unit. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft then place a rag, or glove, and hold on to the end of the armature shaft as you use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Use a rubber mallet to tap the armature free of the housing.
Clean the armature only with electrical contact cleaner, to remove any heavy build up of debris. Once it is cleaned, inspect the armature for burn marks that indicates excessive sparking, leading to excessive heat. If the armature has burn marks, it should be replaced.
To verify if an armature is good, or has gone bad, there are three test to use when checking an armature. The first test is a continuity test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. Attach one end of the ohmmeter to the shaft, for ground, and the other to the bar on the commutator. Move the probe to each bar on the commutator, checking all bars. If the ohmmeter shows a reading on one of the bars, this will indicate a short and a bad armature.
The second test is a bar-to-bar test, determining resistance. Attach one probe to a bar on the commutator and the other probe on the bar right beside it. There will be a specific reading for this, depending on the design of the armature. But, most importantly, you do not want a large fluctuation here between values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, this will indicate there is a broken, or burned out, wire in the coil. If the resistance drops, then there is a short. Move around the commutator, checking each bar.
The third test is the 180-degree test. Attach the two ends of the ohmmeter on the commutator bars, directly across from each other. There will be a specific set of readings for this, depending on the design of your unit. Again, what is most important is that there is not a large fluctuation in values, which would indicate fault. If there is an increase in resistance, that would indicate a broken, or burnt out, wire. If the resistance drops, that would indicate that there is a short. Continue this test on all the bars. If an armature fails any of these tests, it is recommended that you replace it.
Install the armature into the housing and tap it in place with a rubber mallet. Reinstall the chuck with an impact wrench, followed by the collet. Rejoin the two halves of the motor housing, lining up the reference marks. Reinstall the brushes and reapply the tension on the brushes. Reattach the motor cover and then the base.
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Bearings
Seized, or partially seized, bearings will cause excessive stress on the motor and cause it to overheat. To check the condition of the bearings and to replace, if needed, remove the base from the laminate trimmer. Remove the motor cover and remove the brushes, which can easily be done by sliding the tension spring to the side.
Note: some models may have caps on the side, holding the brushes in, which can be removed with a screwdriver to remove the brushes. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping it free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft and then with a rag, or glove, hold on to one end of the armature shaft as you use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Tap the...
Note: some models may have caps on the side, holding the brushes in, which can be removed with a screwdriver to remove the brushes. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping it free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft and then with a rag, or glove, hold on to one end of the armature shaft as you use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Tap the...
Seized, or partially seized, bearings will cause excessive stress on the motor and cause it to overheat. To check the condition of the bearings and to replace, if needed, remove the base from the laminate trimmer. Remove the motor cover and remove the brushes, which can easily be done by sliding the tension spring to the side.
Note: some models may have caps on the side, holding the brushes in, which can be removed with a screwdriver to remove the brushes. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping it free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft and then with a rag, or glove, hold on to one end of the armature shaft as you use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Tap the armature free of the housing with a rubber mallet. Spin the bearings to see if they are seized or partially seized. Bearings should spin freely, with no noise. For units with a bearing mounted inside of the housing (instead of on the armature shaft), use retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring, securing the bearing in place in the housing.
Next, use a socket that only makes contact with the outer race of the bearing and tap it free of the housing. Turn the housing over and insert the new bearing in place. Use a socket that only makes contact with the outer race of the bearing to avoid any damage to the bearing and tap the bearing in place.
Reinstall the retaining ring. Install the armature back in the housing and tap it in place with a rubber mallet. To replace the bottom bearing, you can leave the armature in the housing. Use a bearing puller to take out the bearing. Apply a small amount of grease to the shaft and install the new bearing. Place a socket on the bearing that only makes contact with the inner race to avoid damaging the bearing. Tap the bearing in place using a rubber mallet. Reinstall the chuck with the impact wrench, holding on to the opposite end. Reinstall the collet and then rejoin the two halves of the motor housing, making sure to line up the reference marks. Reinstall the brushes and reapply the tension springs. Reattach the motor cover and the base.
Note: some models may have caps on the side, holding the brushes in, which can be removed with a screwdriver to remove the brushes. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for reassembly. Separate the upper and lower half of the motor housing by removing the screws and tapping it free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft and then with a rag, or glove, hold on to one end of the armature shaft as you use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Tap the armature free of the housing with a rubber mallet. Spin the bearings to see if they are seized or partially seized. Bearings should spin freely, with no noise. For units with a bearing mounted inside of the housing (instead of on the armature shaft), use retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring, securing the bearing in place in the housing.
Next, use a socket that only makes contact with the outer race of the bearing and tap it free of the housing. Turn the housing over and insert the new bearing in place. Use a socket that only makes contact with the outer race of the bearing to avoid any damage to the bearing and tap the bearing in place.
Reinstall the retaining ring. Install the armature back in the housing and tap it in place with a rubber mallet. To replace the bottom bearing, you can leave the armature in the housing. Use a bearing puller to take out the bearing. Apply a small amount of grease to the shaft and install the new bearing. Place a socket on the bearing that only makes contact with the inner race to avoid damaging the bearing. Tap the bearing in place using a rubber mallet. Reinstall the chuck with the impact wrench, holding on to the opposite end. Reinstall the collet and then rejoin the two halves of the motor housing, making sure to line up the reference marks. Reinstall the brushes and reapply the tension springs. Reattach the motor cover and the base.
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Carbon Brushes
The carbon brushes ride on the commutator, supplying electricity to the armature. When the carbon brushes wear out, they will produce excessive sparking, causing the motor to get too hot, eventually overheat and lead to more serious problems. To check the condition of the carbon brushes, remove the motor cap and release the tension on the brushes by sliding the tension spring over. Pull out the carbon brushes to inspect. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, are worn and need to be replaced. At this point, it is a good idea to clean the commutator as there is probably a heavy build up of dirt and debris. Separate the two halves of the motor housing. Clean the commutator only with 600-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. Rotate the armature in its rotational direction only, to provide a smooth, even surface. Use a plastic scribe to clean in between the bars on...
The carbon brushes ride on the commutator, supplying electricity to the armature. When the carbon brushes wear out, they will produce excessive sparking, causing the motor to get too hot, eventually overheat and lead to more serious problems. To check the condition of the carbon brushes, remove the motor cap and release the tension on the brushes by sliding the tension spring over. Pull out the carbon brushes to inspect. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, are worn and need to be replaced. At this point, it is a good idea to clean the commutator as there is probably a heavy build up of dirt and debris. Separate the two halves of the motor housing. Clean the commutator only with 600-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. Rotate the armature in its rotational direction only, to provide a smooth, even surface. Use a plastic scribe to clean in between the bars on the commutator. Rejoin the two halves of the laminate trimmer back together and install the new brushes. Reinstall the motor cap. Some models have caps on the side, for easy access to the brushes. Remove these caps with a screwdriver to access the brushes.
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Fans
The fan is attached to the armature shaft, keeping the motor cool. If the fan is broken, has missing blades, not spinning with the shaft or has a very heavy build up of debris on it, then it will not be able to keep the motor cool. To inspect, replace or clean the fan, remove the laminate trimmer from its base then remove the motor cover. Remove the carbon brushes.
Some models have caps on the side for easy access, which can be removed with a screwdriver. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for a reinstallation reference. Remove the screws securing the two halves of the motor housing, then tap them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft. Using a rag, or a glove, hold on to the end of the armature shaft and use an impact wrench to remove the...
Some models have caps on the side for easy access, which can be removed with a screwdriver. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for a reinstallation reference. Remove the screws securing the two halves of the motor housing, then tap them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft. Using a rag, or a glove, hold on to the end of the armature shaft and use an impact wrench to remove the...
The fan is attached to the armature shaft, keeping the motor cool. If the fan is broken, has missing blades, not spinning with the shaft or has a very heavy build up of debris on it, then it will not be able to keep the motor cool. To inspect, replace or clean the fan, remove the laminate trimmer from its base then remove the motor cover. Remove the carbon brushes.
Some models have caps on the side for easy access, which can be removed with a screwdriver. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for a reinstallation reference. Remove the screws securing the two halves of the motor housing, then tap them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft. Using a rag, or a glove, hold on to the end of the armature shaft and use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Use a rubber mallet and tap the armature free of the housing.
Examine the fan for looseness, broken fins or if it just has a heavy dirt build up. If it has a heavy dirt build up, clean it thoroughly. If it is broken, continue by removing the wave washer. Use a bearing puller to remove the bearing from the armature shaft. Remove the retaining clip on the shaft, which holds on the fan, then remove the fan from the armature shaft.
Install a new fan on the shaft. Reinstall the clip, securing it on the shaft. Install the bearing with a press. If you do not have a press, then place the shaft in a bench vice with the soft jaws attached to avoid damage to the armature. Place a socket big enough on the inner race of the bearing only, to avoid damaging the bearing, and tap into place with a hammer. Reinstall the wave washer and insert the armature in the housing and use a rubber mallet to tap in place. Reinstall the chuck with the impact hammer and then the collet. Rejoin the two halves of the motor housing lining up the reference marks. Reinstall the brushes and reattach the motor cover and base.
Some models have caps on the side for easy access, which can be removed with a screwdriver. Make a reference mark on the upper and lower motor housing for a reinstallation reference. Remove the screws securing the two halves of the motor housing, then tap them free with a rubber mallet. Remove the collet from the shaft. Using a rag, or a glove, hold on to the end of the armature shaft and use an impact wrench to remove the chuck. Use a rubber mallet and tap the armature free of the housing.
Examine the fan for looseness, broken fins or if it just has a heavy dirt build up. If it has a heavy dirt build up, clean it thoroughly. If it is broken, continue by removing the wave washer. Use a bearing puller to remove the bearing from the armature shaft. Remove the retaining clip on the shaft, which holds on the fan, then remove the fan from the armature shaft.
Install a new fan on the shaft. Reinstall the clip, securing it on the shaft. Install the bearing with a press. If you do not have a press, then place the shaft in a bench vice with the soft jaws attached to avoid damage to the armature. Place a socket big enough on the inner race of the bearing only, to avoid damaging the bearing, and tap into place with a hammer. Reinstall the wave washer and insert the armature in the housing and use a rubber mallet to tap in place. Reinstall the chuck with the impact hammer and then the collet. Rejoin the two halves of the motor housing lining up the reference marks. Reinstall the brushes and reattach the motor cover and base.
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Fields
The field works with the armature to create an electromagnetic field for the armature to spin. If the field is contaminated with a heavy build-up of dirt, it can cause the motor to overheat. If the field is shorting out, this also can lead to an overheating motor. Repair procedures will vary on models, as they are different, yet the repair will be similar.
To check the condition of the field and to replace it, if required, begin by removing the base and the motor cover from the unit. Take out the speed control switch, followed by the carbon brushes. Remove the upper bearing holder by placing a wrench on the lower shaft – to keep the shaft still – and use an allen key to remove the screw in the upper armature shaft. Loosen the shaft by turning the allen key. Make a reference mark on the two housing...
To check the condition of the field and to replace it, if required, begin by removing the base and the motor cover from the unit. Take out the speed control switch, followed by the carbon brushes. Remove the upper bearing holder by placing a wrench on the lower shaft – to keep the shaft still – and use an allen key to remove the screw in the upper armature shaft. Loosen the shaft by turning the allen key. Make a reference mark on the two housing...
The field works with the armature to create an electromagnetic field for the armature to spin. If the field is contaminated with a heavy build-up of dirt, it can cause the motor to overheat. If the field is shorting out, this also can lead to an overheating motor. Repair procedures will vary on models, as they are different, yet the repair will be similar.
To check the condition of the field and to replace it, if required, begin by removing the base and the motor cover from the unit. Take out the speed control switch, followed by the carbon brushes. Remove the upper bearing holder by placing a wrench on the lower shaft – to keep the shaft still – and use an allen key to remove the screw in the upper armature shaft. Loosen the shaft by turning the allen key. Make a reference mark on the two housing for reassembly.
Separate the two halves of the motor housing. For this step, you may have to tap it loose with a rubber mallet. Disconnect the field wires at the switch and speed control, making note of where they attach to. It is a good idea to take a picture for reference. Remove the brush holders and insulators from the motor housing and disconnect the field wire from the brush holder. Cut the other two wires, coming from the field, as close to the crimped nut as possible to prevent losing wire length. Remove the screws securing the field to the housing and remove the field.
Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner to remove any heavy build up of dirt and debris that could be causing it to overheat. Next, inspect the field for burn marks that indicates excessive sparking, causing the motor to overheat. If there are burn marks, replace the field. If there are no burn marks, you can test the condition of the field.
Using a multimeter, you can check the field for continuity. Set the multimeter to ohmmeter and place a lead on each end of the coil in the field. You will have to perform this test for each coil in the field. If the reading is infinity for one, or more, of the coils then the field is bad and requires replacement. If there is a major variance between the coils, then the field needs to be replaced.
Install the new field, making sure the wires are lined up. Secure the field in the housing with screws. Strip back ¼ inch of insulation on the wires that you cut, coming from the field before. Re-crimp the wires back together using a crimping nut and then connect the field wires to the brush holders. Reinstall the brush holders back in the housing, along with the insulators and insert the speed control back in the housing. Make sure the wires are tucked into their appropriate channels. Rejoin the two halves of the motor housing, lining up the reference marks. Reinstall the upper bearing holder and secure. Tighten the set screw in the armature shaft with the wrench and allen key. Reattach the brush springs and then the speed control switch. Finally, reattach the motor cover.
To check the condition of the field and to replace it, if required, begin by removing the base and the motor cover from the unit. Take out the speed control switch, followed by the carbon brushes. Remove the upper bearing holder by placing a wrench on the lower shaft – to keep the shaft still – and use an allen key to remove the screw in the upper armature shaft. Loosen the shaft by turning the allen key. Make a reference mark on the two housing for reassembly.
Separate the two halves of the motor housing. For this step, you may have to tap it loose with a rubber mallet. Disconnect the field wires at the switch and speed control, making note of where they attach to. It is a good idea to take a picture for reference. Remove the brush holders and insulators from the motor housing and disconnect the field wire from the brush holder. Cut the other two wires, coming from the field, as close to the crimped nut as possible to prevent losing wire length. Remove the screws securing the field to the housing and remove the field.
Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner to remove any heavy build up of dirt and debris that could be causing it to overheat. Next, inspect the field for burn marks that indicates excessive sparking, causing the motor to overheat. If there are burn marks, replace the field. If there are no burn marks, you can test the condition of the field.
Using a multimeter, you can check the field for continuity. Set the multimeter to ohmmeter and place a lead on each end of the coil in the field. You will have to perform this test for each coil in the field. If the reading is infinity for one, or more, of the coils then the field is bad and requires replacement. If there is a major variance between the coils, then the field needs to be replaced.
Install the new field, making sure the wires are lined up. Secure the field in the housing with screws. Strip back ¼ inch of insulation on the wires that you cut, coming from the field before. Re-crimp the wires back together using a crimping nut and then connect the field wires to the brush holders. Reinstall the brush holders back in the housing, along with the insulators and insert the speed control back in the housing. Make sure the wires are tucked into their appropriate channels. Rejoin the two halves of the motor housing, lining up the reference marks. Reinstall the upper bearing holder and secure. Tighten the set screw in the armature shaft with the wrench and allen key. Reattach the brush springs and then the speed control switch. Finally, reattach the motor cover.
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