Hammer Drill: Smoke Coming From the Tool
Seeing smoke coming from your hammer drill may feel concerning, but it is actually something you can fix yourself, with some help from us. First inspect the armature, carbon brushes, holder, switch, field, and housing. Once you have determined which part the problem is stemming from, read our repair advice for instructions on how to fix your hammer drill. Refer to your owner's manual for specific information on your model.
Armatures
The armature is the power-producing unit of the motor, located inside the field. It is the only moving part of the motor. Over-working the hammer drill can cause excessive heat in the motor, causing the windings on the armature to melt, short-out and smoke.
To check the armature for damage and continuity, you will have to remove the armature. To do so, begin by taking off the handle and open up the case of the hammer drill – this will vary on all makes and models. Remove the hold-downs on the motor, if there are any. Remove the chuck and spindle assembly. There may be a secondary shaft to remove as well. Remove the brushes by gently lifting up on the wires going to the brush holders. On some models, the brushes may be held in by a clip. You do not have to remove the entire brush holder, just...
To check the armature for damage and continuity, you will have to remove the armature. To do so, begin by taking off the handle and open up the case of the hammer drill – this will vary on all makes and models. Remove the hold-downs on the motor, if there are any. Remove the chuck and spindle assembly. There may be a secondary shaft to remove as well. Remove the brushes by gently lifting up on the wires going to the brush holders. On some models, the brushes may be held in by a clip. You do not have to remove the entire brush holder, just...
The armature is the power-producing unit of the motor, located inside the field. It is the only moving part of the motor. Over-working the hammer drill can cause excessive heat in the motor, causing the windings on the armature to melt, short-out and smoke.
To check the armature for damage and continuity, you will have to remove the armature. To do so, begin by taking off the handle and open up the case of the hammer drill – this will vary on all makes and models. Remove the hold-downs on the motor, if there are any. Remove the chuck and spindle assembly. There may be a secondary shaft to remove as well. Remove the brushes by gently lifting up on the wires going to the brush holders. On some models, the brushes may be held in by a clip. You do not have to remove the entire brush holder, just pull this clip off to take out the brushes. Lift the motor assembly up and pull the armature out of the field.
Clean the armature with electrical contact cleaner and inspect for burn marks, or melted insulation, indicating a short, causing the smoke. If there are indications of this, the armature is likely bad and you will need to replace it. Though, you can test it for continuity to make sure.
To check for a bad armature, you can perform the 180-degree test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. With an ohmmeter, attach the two ends to both sides of the commutator to measure the resistance of the windings. As you move it around the commutator, the reading number is not important. You are looking for a consistent reading, indicating all windings are good. If it varies, radically reading a zero, or open circuit, then the armature is not good. Another test is reading. If the ohmmeter reads a zero, or open circuit, then that indicates a bad armature. The last test is a bar to ground test which is done by placing one lead of the ohmmeter to the tip of the shaft of the armature and the other end to the commutator.
If the armature is bad, install a new one. Insert the armature in the field and install the brushes using a small knife for screwdriver to hold the carbon brushes down, giving you clearance as you put them back in the case. On other models, insert the springs and brushes back in the holder and reapply the clip. Install the spindle and chuck assembly back in the case (and secondary shaft on some models). Reassemble the case back together and reattach the handle.
To check the armature for damage and continuity, you will have to remove the armature. To do so, begin by taking off the handle and open up the case of the hammer drill – this will vary on all makes and models. Remove the hold-downs on the motor, if there are any. Remove the chuck and spindle assembly. There may be a secondary shaft to remove as well. Remove the brushes by gently lifting up on the wires going to the brush holders. On some models, the brushes may be held in by a clip. You do not have to remove the entire brush holder, just pull this clip off to take out the brushes. Lift the motor assembly up and pull the armature out of the field.
Clean the armature with electrical contact cleaner and inspect for burn marks, or melted insulation, indicating a short, causing the smoke. If there are indications of this, the armature is likely bad and you will need to replace it. Though, you can test it for continuity to make sure.
To check for a bad armature, you can perform the 180-degree test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. With an ohmmeter, attach the two ends to both sides of the commutator to measure the resistance of the windings. As you move it around the commutator, the reading number is not important. You are looking for a consistent reading, indicating all windings are good. If it varies, radically reading a zero, or open circuit, then the armature is not good. Another test is reading. If the ohmmeter reads a zero, or open circuit, then that indicates a bad armature. The last test is a bar to ground test which is done by placing one lead of the ohmmeter to the tip of the shaft of the armature and the other end to the commutator.
If the armature is bad, install a new one. Insert the armature in the field and install the brushes using a small knife for screwdriver to hold the carbon brushes down, giving you clearance as you put them back in the case. On other models, insert the springs and brushes back in the holder and reapply the clip. Install the spindle and chuck assembly back in the case (and secondary shaft on some models). Reassemble the case back together and reattach the handle.
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Carbon Brushes
The carbon brushes ride on the commutator, supplying electricity. As the carbon brushes wear down, they will produce more sparking and possibly even causing a ring of fire. This can cause heavy carbon build-up between the brushes and the commutator, causing the drill to smoke.
To repair this, you will need to replace the brushes and clean the commutator. Remove the handle from the hammer drill and open up the casing – this will vary on models as they are different. Locate the brush holders and remove them by gently pulling the wires up and using a small screwdriver on the other side for even lifting. Push the tab on the side of the holder to remove the brush. On some models, you will remove a clip on the holder to remove the brush only – the holder stays in the case. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, from...
To repair this, you will need to replace the brushes and clean the commutator. Remove the handle from the hammer drill and open up the casing – this will vary on models as they are different. Locate the brush holders and remove them by gently pulling the wires up and using a small screwdriver on the other side for even lifting. Push the tab on the side of the holder to remove the brush. On some models, you will remove a clip on the holder to remove the brush only – the holder stays in the case. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, from...
The carbon brushes ride on the commutator, supplying electricity. As the carbon brushes wear down, they will produce more sparking and possibly even causing a ring of fire. This can cause heavy carbon build-up between the brushes and the commutator, causing the drill to smoke.
To repair this, you will need to replace the brushes and clean the commutator. Remove the handle from the hammer drill and open up the casing – this will vary on models as they are different. Locate the brush holders and remove them by gently pulling the wires up and using a small screwdriver on the other side for even lifting. Push the tab on the side of the holder to remove the brush. On some models, you will remove a clip on the holder to remove the brush only – the holder stays in the case. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, from the wire lead, will need to be replaced as they are worn out.
Next, examine the commutator to see if it requires cleaning. If it does, remove the chuck and spindle assembly from the case then lift the motor up and slide out the armature. On some hammer drills, there will be a secondary shaft to remove as well. Use electrical contact cleaner on the commutator. Use 600-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper and wrap it around the commutator, rotating it in the direction of travel only. Use a plastic scrip to clean out between the bars.
Reassemble the armature back in the field and reinstall the spindle/chuck assembly. Install the new brushes in the holder and reinstall the holder back in place. On other models, slide the spring and brush into the holder and install the clip. Reassemble the drill case back together and reattach the handle.
To repair this, you will need to replace the brushes and clean the commutator. Remove the handle from the hammer drill and open up the casing – this will vary on models as they are different. Locate the brush holders and remove them by gently pulling the wires up and using a small screwdriver on the other side for even lifting. Push the tab on the side of the holder to remove the brush. On some models, you will remove a clip on the holder to remove the brush only – the holder stays in the case. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, from the wire lead, will need to be replaced as they are worn out.
Next, examine the commutator to see if it requires cleaning. If it does, remove the chuck and spindle assembly from the case then lift the motor up and slide out the armature. On some hammer drills, there will be a secondary shaft to remove as well. Use electrical contact cleaner on the commutator. Use 600-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper and wrap it around the commutator, rotating it in the direction of travel only. Use a plastic scrip to clean out between the bars.
Reassemble the armature back in the field and reinstall the spindle/chuck assembly. Install the new brushes in the holder and reinstall the holder back in place. On other models, slide the spring and brush into the holder and install the clip. Reassemble the drill case back together and reattach the handle.
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Fields
The field is an electromagnet used to generate a magnetic field in an electro-magnetic machine. If the field overheats, the insulation can melt and cause the winding to short-out and produce smoke. To inspect the field, remove the handle and proceed to open the hammer drill case (this will vary on all models). Remove the brush holders by gently pulling the wire up, connected to the brush holder. On some models you will have to remove a clip on the holder to remove the spring and brush. You do not have to remove the entire holder. Take out the spindle and chuck assembly from the drill. There also may be a hold-down bracket as well as a secondary gear shaft. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the field then lift the motor assembly out of the case.
Remove the armature from the field. Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner. Inspect...
Remove the armature from the field. Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner. Inspect...
The field is an electromagnet used to generate a magnetic field in an electro-magnetic machine. If the field overheats, the insulation can melt and cause the winding to short-out and produce smoke. To inspect the field, remove the handle and proceed to open the hammer drill case (this will vary on all models). Remove the brush holders by gently pulling the wire up, connected to the brush holder. On some models you will have to remove a clip on the holder to remove the spring and brush. You do not have to remove the entire holder. Take out the spindle and chuck assembly from the drill. There also may be a hold-down bracket as well as a secondary gear shaft. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the field then lift the motor assembly out of the case.
Remove the armature from the field. Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner. Inspect the field for burn marks, indicating sparking or a short and causing the motor to produce smoke. Inspect for melted insulation, which is also a sign of excessive heat and leads to smoke. If you notice burn marks on the field, it probably needs to be replaced.
You can perform one simple test on the field to check for continuity by using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to an ohmmeter and place a lead to each end of the field. If the reading is infinity, the field is bad and require replacement. Install the armature in the new field, or the old one if it is good.
The field will have a notch on it indicating the front. Place the motor back into the drill and reattach the electrical connectors. Install the spindle and chuck assembly back in the case. If there are any hold-down brackets, reinstall those as well. Reinstall the brush holders by using a small-blade screwdriver to hold the brush down, giving you clearance of the commutator. Or, reinstall the springs and brushes back in the holder and reapply the clip. Tuck wires inside the channels and out of the way. Close the case back together and reattach the handle.
Remove the armature from the field. Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner. Inspect the field for burn marks, indicating sparking or a short and causing the motor to produce smoke. Inspect for melted insulation, which is also a sign of excessive heat and leads to smoke. If you notice burn marks on the field, it probably needs to be replaced.
You can perform one simple test on the field to check for continuity by using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to an ohmmeter and place a lead to each end of the field. If the reading is infinity, the field is bad and require replacement. Install the armature in the new field, or the old one if it is good.
The field will have a notch on it indicating the front. Place the motor back into the drill and reattach the electrical connectors. Install the spindle and chuck assembly back in the case. If there are any hold-down brackets, reinstall those as well. Reinstall the brush holders by using a small-blade screwdriver to hold the brush down, giving you clearance of the commutator. Or, reinstall the springs and brushes back in the holder and reapply the clip. Tuck wires inside the channels and out of the way. Close the case back together and reattach the handle.
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Housings
The drill housing, or case, houses all the parts of the drill for safe and easy handling. If parts of the housing break, that holds crucial parts in place, it may allow that part to malfunction, smoke and possibly catch fire. If you are noticing smoke coming from the hammer drill, open up the housing of the drill. With the case open, inspect the inside for any broken pieces of the housing. Look for loose parts or parts out of place. Inspect for melted plastic as a lot of housing are made from plastic. You may notice a broken piece of the housing when you open it.
If the housing is damaged, you will need to remove all the parts of the hammer drill and transfer them into a new housing. Taking a picture for reference is a good idea as every hammer drill is different. Remove any brackets holding...
If the housing is damaged, you will need to remove all the parts of the hammer drill and transfer them into a new housing. Taking a picture for reference is a good idea as every hammer drill is different. Remove any brackets holding...
The drill housing, or case, houses all the parts of the drill for safe and easy handling. If parts of the housing break, that holds crucial parts in place, it may allow that part to malfunction, smoke and possibly catch fire. If you are noticing smoke coming from the hammer drill, open up the housing of the drill. With the case open, inspect the inside for any broken pieces of the housing. Look for loose parts or parts out of place. Inspect for melted plastic as a lot of housing are made from plastic. You may notice a broken piece of the housing when you open it.
If the housing is damaged, you will need to remove all the parts of the hammer drill and transfer them into a new housing. Taking a picture for reference is a good idea as every hammer drill is different. Remove any brackets holding parts in place as well as the brush holders. Take the spindle/chuck assembly out of the housing. There may be a secondary shaft to also take out. Remove the field and armature. Disconnect any electrical connections and remove the switch and power cord. Transfer everything over to the new housing and install. When installing, remember to reconnect any electrical connections. Reinstall any hold-down brackets and tuck wires into their appropriate channels to avoid damage. Once the transfer is complete, reassemble the housing together.
If the housing is damaged, you will need to remove all the parts of the hammer drill and transfer them into a new housing. Taking a picture for reference is a good idea as every hammer drill is different. Remove any brackets holding parts in place as well as the brush holders. Take the spindle/chuck assembly out of the housing. There may be a secondary shaft to also take out. Remove the field and armature. Disconnect any electrical connections and remove the switch and power cord. Transfer everything over to the new housing and install. When installing, remember to reconnect any electrical connections. Reinstall any hold-down brackets and tuck wires into their appropriate channels to avoid damage. Once the transfer is complete, reassemble the housing together.
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Switches
Over time, the switch will wear out which may cause it to overheat, melt and smoke. The switch may not always operate when you push on it and, if you notice smoke coming out from around the switch and it is accompanied by a burning-plastic smell, it is a good idea to open up the drill and inspect. To inspect the switch for damage, and to replace it, begin by opening the drill case. On some models, you may only be required to open the handle. Locate the switch and remove it from the housing. Remove any hold-down brackets or screws, if necessary. Remove the wires, making note or where they are attached to. Inspect the switch for melting, indicating over-heating. If there are signs of melting, it is over-heating. Replace the switch with a new one. Reinstall the electrical wires to the appropriate terminals. Reinstall the switch in the...
Over time, the switch will wear out which may cause it to overheat, melt and smoke. The switch may not always operate when you push on it and, if you notice smoke coming out from around the switch and it is accompanied by a burning-plastic smell, it is a good idea to open up the drill and inspect. To inspect the switch for damage, and to replace it, begin by opening the drill case. On some models, you may only be required to open the handle. Locate the switch and remove it from the housing. Remove any hold-down brackets or screws, if necessary. Remove the wires, making note or where they are attached to. Inspect the switch for melting, indicating over-heating. If there are signs of melting, it is over-heating. Replace the switch with a new one. Reinstall the electrical wires to the appropriate terminals. Reinstall the switch in the housing and fasten down. Reassemble the case back together.
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Holder
The holders house the spring and brush and keep the brush in place on the commutator. If the holders are damaged, they may not be able to hold the brush in proper position with the correct pressure on the commutator. This can cause excessive sparking, resulting in smoke. To check the condition of the holders, remove the handle and open the drill case – this will vary on models. Remove the holders by gently pulling up on the wire attached to them. It may be easier to use a small screwdriver at the same time on the other side of the holder for even lifting. Remove the brush and spring by pressing the tab on the side. Disconnect any wire connectors. Examine the holder for any signs of damage and replace, if you notice any. Reassemble the brush and spring in the holder and reattach any electrical connectors and reinstall...
The holders house the spring and brush and keep the brush in place on the commutator. If the holders are damaged, they may not be able to hold the brush in proper position with the correct pressure on the commutator. This can cause excessive sparking, resulting in smoke. To check the condition of the holders, remove the handle and open the drill case – this will vary on models. Remove the holders by gently pulling up on the wire attached to them. It may be easier to use a small screwdriver at the same time on the other side of the holder for even lifting. Remove the brush and spring by pressing the tab on the side. Disconnect any wire connectors. Examine the holder for any signs of damage and replace, if you notice any. Reassemble the brush and spring in the holder and reattach any electrical connectors and reinstall into the drill housing. Reassemble the drill case back together and reattach the handle.
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