Adjuster,​​ Asm,​​ 22+fgd,​​ Lf/​​awd 581497907

1. Removed wheel nut using a socket wrench.
2. Removed the wheel, washer and dust cover.
3. Removed E clip from the drive axle using a screw driver
4. Pulled off the drive gear
5. Removed retainer pin in the transmission axle using punch and hammer
6. Removed two nuts that secured the wheel adjuster using a open-face wrench.
7. Removed and replaced the wheel adjuster.
8. Replaced everything in reverse sequence.
Comment: replacing the wheel adjuster nuts was a bit of a challenge because of the tight space and fat fingers.

Removed wheel and adjuster and replaced with new

This is not step by step! I apparently "broke" the lawnmower (as it's usually blamed on me for when the lawnmower doesn't function propertly). The right wheel's adjuster would disengage whenever I turned the corner and would lift up the mower even a tiny bit.

After showing and discussing with my better half, we agreed to order replacement parts for both sides. Was certainly more cost effective than a new mower. The parts came very quickly.

He put them on - not me. He was pleasantly surprised that it was the entire adjuster kit for each side and didn't require a bunch of tinkering. As far as I know (and from the lack of swearing and alcoholic beverages in the garage), it went smooth. The mower was back up and running in no time.

As a matter of fact, the mower hasn't "driven" this easily in years. If you have any troubles with the wheels disengaging from the self-propelled part of the mower - this is the solution!

1. removed wheels and adjuster arms
2. replaced with new parts
3. rt wheel adjuster arm went on easily
4. left wheel adjuster arm was a bear to get on -the clip would not slip into place we had to leave
it off but it works okay anyway.

1. Removed both front wheels.
2. Removed self drive gears.
3. Removed old front adjusters (decided to do both)
4. Installed new height adjusters.
5. Installed new self drive gears (bought new ones as the old ones would not seat over the resized new bearing sleeves that were part of the front adjusters. New ones were the same size as the old ones so was forced to grind the opening larger to accommodate the bearing sleeve - new gears were a wasted purchase as I could’ve just ground the old ones)
6. Installed new wheels (purchased separately)

1) Raise front of lawn mower for access to underside of adjuster assembly.
2) Remove wheel lug nut, wheel, then c-clip and pin securing drive gear, then drive gear.
3) Remove 2 small nuts that are securing the back of the adjuster assembly to the
underside of lawn mower.
4) Remove rubber dustcover and old adjuster assembly from lawn mower.
5) Clean all parts that you will be reusing for installation of new replacement part.
6) Install new replacement part and all cleaned parts in reverse order of removal.
7) Lower lawn mower and test operation of front wheel drive system. You may have to
replace the wheel if the wheel's inner plastic gear surface had been "chewed" up by the
loose, wobbly operation.
8) Now, go enjoy mowing your lawn!

I ordered the front wheel height adjuster assemblies for my mower and was sent two left sides. The bags were correctly labeled right and left but there was a left side in the right bag. The only difference between them is the adjuster handle. So I used the handle off of my old one and finished the assembly of the mower.

Remove the broken part and substituted it with the replacement. Once you remove the old part it was a simple installation with little effort.

Remove drive belt cover, front wheels, c-clips, drive shaft pins, adjuster nuts, Drop drive system.
(Removing drive belt cover gives you the room to remove drive system).
After installing new adjusters, there was not enough clearance on drive shaft to re-install the drive shaft pins. Deduced front of mower "out of square" by 1/4".
Pounded straight with hammers, reinstalled in reverse of above.
Works great !

Removed and replaced broken parts.