Main Burner Tube,​​ No Electrode G431-0300-W2A

I used a wire brush to clean up the heads of some of the screwdriver slots on the old rusted parts. Some of the old round-headed bolts with nuts broke when trying to take them out. This was ok because there are more than enough new bolts, nuts, washers, lock washers and screws supplied with the new original replacement parts to do the job even if you drop and lose a few. I used never seize on all the new bolts and screw threads when installing for ease of future parts replacement. I replaced all 5 main burners, 4 carryover tubes, 5 heat tents and one searing burner. All original replacement parts installed easily and fit exactly where they were designed to. I used the old electrodes and had to adjust the distance a little to get a good spark to ignite the gas properly. I ran all the burners wide open for 20 minutes and then let it cool down before cooking on the grill.

All the screws were rust and corroded. I had to drill them out, replaced with stainless steel screws. Simple to change out the burner and carry over tubes then. For the heat tent just remove the old rusted ones and place the new ones in by hand.

1 Removed the old burner and crossovers. Tried using a drill driver which only stripped the socket. Used vice drips to loosen the screws holding the main burners. Worked well.
2. Removed the entire units.
3. Replaced the main and crossovers with the new screws provided. (Lots of extra screws).
4 Put on new heat shields.
5 Scraped the grills with a painting knife, cleaned them with high pressure cleaner and put them back.
6 Turned it on, first time worked well. Let it burn for 15 minutes.
All done.

Most of the screws were rusted on had to grind new slots and used a flat head screw driver to remove them.

Just unscrewed parts and replaced with new pars.

Pulled out old burners and replaced with little effort

I took the cooking grates off and took them to the car wash and power washed them. (Quick and easy clean for a dollar). I took out the rusty heat tents and then just like everyone else on here, the screws that hold the burners in place wouldn't come out. The heads twisted off or they just stripped out. Instead of drilling them out, I used an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to buzz the heads off the screws and then the whole burner assembly came right out. The burners I ordered came with all the necessary screws, washers, and nuts. The only thing I had to mess with was the igniters. I had to drill out the holes for the igniter on the sear burner and reattach it to the new one. My grill looks brand new now and I'm very happy with it.

Changed the main burner tube and the carryover tubes.

Remove the old corroded parts and replaced with the new parts. Hardest to change were the burner tubes because of the screw on each was badly corroded. Used vice grips to clamp on the screw heads and break loose. Then used common screwdriver to remove.

I pulled the knobs off of the front of the flame adjustment valves. I removed the two screws behind each valve. This allowed me to flex the front enough to replace the ignition module. The screws securing the burners were rusted so I drilled them out and replaced them with new screws. Everything else was easy peasy. My six burner grill with side burner works like new. A huge savings over buying a new grill. Ron W.