866-329-4983
Mon-Fri 7am-1am EST
Sat-Sun 7am-11pm EST
Repair Parts Home  Appliance Parts  Breville Parts  SP0010484 Fuse Assembly

Fuse Assembly

Part Number: SP0010484
Breville
Availability: Special Order [ more info ]
Price: $4.55
Quantity:
Leaves our warehouse within
18 - 24 business days.

*This part replaces obsolete part #: BOV450XL/63 and BOV450XL63.

Product Information
Manufacturer: Breville
Product Number: SP0010484
Classification: Part
Weight: 0.04 lbs.
Shipping: Ships Worldwide
Compatibility

This part is compatible with the following machines:


Products Compatibility

This item works with the following types of products:

  • • Oven
Repair Stories
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tool Type:
Toaster
Parts Used:
Fuse Assembly - SP0010484
Repair Difficulty:
Medium
Time Spent Repairing:
30-60 minutes
Tools Used:
Screwdriver
Stopped working totally
1. Removed tons of screws
2. Peeled outside back, removed more screws
3. Replaced fuse after cutting all plastic ties
4. Put tons of screws back on.
Did you find this story helpful?
Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Tool Type:
Convection Oven
Parts Used:
Fuse Assembly - SP0010484
Repair Difficulty:
Medium
Time Spent Repairing:
1-2 hours
Tools Used:
Screwdriver, Pliers, Electrical connector crimper and wire cutters/strippers.
Thermal fuse blew out
I searched this repair online and found several very helpful Do-It-Yourself videos and articles. I got a box of snack-size, clear, Ziploc baggies, a piece of copy paper, and a pen so as to put screws/parts into separate bags and write down where they came from on a segment of the sheet of paper. I then tore off each segment and put it inside the corresponding baggie to keep track for reassembly later on. Also, the wire is 16 gauge, so allow for that when choosing butt connectors and using wire strippers. Step 1: Remove all screws from the back panel of the oven. Step 2: Remove all screws from the ends of the housing along each side of the bottom of the oven, and remove all screws from the four feet (NOTE: Two screws for the front feet are hidden under an added, black rubber insert that's held in by one screw and a small metal plate). Step 3: CAREFULLY slide the back panel downward to remove. The back foot that curls up over the side of the oven will create resistance when trying to get the back off. Also, each back foot is held on by a rivet too, so neither can actually be removed from the panel. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING, and gently straighten any sheet metal needing it after you've gotten the back panel off. Step 4: Remove the 2 black screws holding the metal mounting bracket for the thermal fuse in place against the inner cooking-side wall, bend the two teeth holding the bracket to the fuse outward, remove the bracket from the fuse, and put the bracket and 2 screws into their own plastic baggie with a label. The new fuse comes with the bracket too, but not the screws. Step 5: Slide the white insulation sleeve back so you can see the original fuse itself. Find which end of the fuse has a black mark on it and wrap a small piece of black electrical tape around the wire connected to it before you cut the old fuse off. You'll need to install the new fuse oriented the same way. Guess there's polarity involved, eh? Trying to get inside the section of the oven where the fuse and computer circuit panel are located is too cramped. So, I simply cut the original fuse away as far outside the back of the oven as possible, leaving me some wire length with which to work. Step 6: Find the end of the replacement fuse with the black mark on it and make sure to connect it to the original wire with the small piece of black electrical tape wrapped around it. Step 7: I took into consideration that this might not be the only time I have to do this repair, so I left 6 inch's length of wire on each end of the new fuse in case I ever had to replace it again. I then stripped the ends of the new and old wires and, using tube-shaped insulated butt connectors and a crimping tool, I connected the new wires to the old ones with the end with the black mark connected to the wire with the black electrical tape on it. I then slid the white insulation sleeve back over the new fuse, carefully folded it in half again (as it originally was), and loosely coiled the wire lengths so I could put the fuse back inside the oven without the wires touching any of the metal surfaces. The uninsulated lengths of wire connected directly to the fuse (inside the white insulation sleeve) are folded over in half so the fuse will fit into the mounting bracket with the insulation sleeve in place over the fuse, the same as it's installed when you first open the back of the oven. Step 8: At this point, Breville would have you crimp the metal mounting bracket's 2 tabs around the insulation sleeve of the new, folded fuse, and then attach the bracket to the inside the oven's cooking wall again with the 2 black screws you took out before to remove the old fuse. I did not do this. It occurred to me that, since the fuse is from Breville (as opposed to a 3rd party), is already rated at 10 amps and has its set thermal limit, attaching it against the cooking wall of the oven again is going to keep on heating it until it fails just as the original fuse did. In fact, there are comments online stating that some who did this repair ended up having the new fuse blow on them again right afterward. Step 9: So, instead of attaching the new fuse to the mounting bracket and screwing it to the inner wall, I reattached the mounting bracket where it originally was using its 2 black screws so there would be no screws holes open to the section where the fuse and circuit board are located, but I did not attach the new fuse to the mounting bracket. Instead, I positioned the fuse so it's held securely between the insulated lengths of wire without touching any of the metal walls around it. It's also near the vents on the side and back of the oven. I shook the oven and turned it over a few times to make sure the fuse stayed in place, which it did. I felt it was asking for the fuse to blow again, under normal operating use, if I reattached it against the cooking wall. Step 10: Before reassembling the oven, I cleaned the inside walls as best as I could while being careful not to touch the heating elements. You can only do so much cleaning a toaster oven. Their fate is to become gunked up with use since you can't get inside them to clean thoroughly or use oven cleaner sprays without potentially damaging the heating elements. Step 11: I carefully set the oven rightside up and plugged it in to ensure it was now getting power. It sprang right back to life, confirming the repair was successful. Step 12: I then reassembled the rest of the oven the same way I took it apart, starting with replacing the back panel first (important to start with this), and then replacing the bottom screws for the side edges of the housing and the feet. I then cleaned the outside after it was fully reassembled. Apparently, the thermal fuse blowing out is a common problem with the Breville BOV450XL toaster oven (actually, with all of Breville's toaster ovens), despite using the oven within normal operating parameters. I honestly don't know the reason why the oven has a thermal fuse when the only way it could get too hot is if it exceeded its own thermostat's maximum setting, and that's governed by its computer circuit panel which, I think, would blow out before the oven overheated since the thermostat failing would mean the computer board is failing. I guess the only other consideration is if someone were to use the oven without allowing for it to ventilate properly. Yet, the comments I've read from customers online is that the fuse blows even after light use toasting bread! Mine went after only 4 months of regular use, and with open ventilation around all sides of the oven. I guess my "sin" was heating it to its maximum temperature for baking - 450 degrees F. The fuse blew after a few minutes of cooking once it had preheated. Since installing the new fuse as described here, I admit I have not tried using the oven at 450 degrees. I cook at 425 for a little longer time, instead. Why tempt fate, right? It's been a few weeks now. So far, so good.
Did you find this story helpful?
Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Tool Type:
Toaster
Parts Used:
Fuse Assembly - SP0010484
Repair Difficulty:
Medium
Time Spent Repairing:
1-2 hours
Tools Used:
Screwdriver
The fuse blew out, hard to believe on a 2+ year old Breville Mini Smart Oven, My old GE still working after 30 years
Removed all screws, of which there are many
Had a hard time changing out fuse assembly which was difficult because we could not take off the entire back and had to work in a small space. Manufacture did not make it easy to repair.

It was worth effort as oven is now working and saving over 200$ with a 10$ part.
Did you find this story helpful?
Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
Tool Type:
Convection Oven
Parts Used:
Fuse Assembly - SP0010484
Repair Difficulty:
Medium
Time Spent Repairing:
More than 2 hours
Tools Used:
Screwdriver, Wire cutter and stripper
Just wouldn't turn on all of a sudden.
This was to fix the Breville mini smart oven, model number BOV450XL.
It took a while just to remove the 41 screws while trying not to strip the threads. The toughest part was to slide the back panel off after all the screws were removed and not clear which part exactly to replace. I'll list the tips below.
1. Remove all screws at the back panel and the 4 feet as well as the side screws at the bottom panel. The two front feet have two hidden screws under the oblong rubber. The two back feet have a revel that cannot be removed, that is, they won't completely come off.
2. Remove the front feet and loosen the back feet. Wiggle the side panel (where all the controls are) to open enough space to slide off the back panel. I found it easier to rotate the back panel counterclockwise to get it off. I didn't warp any of the sheet metal.
3. Unscrew the 2 screws that hold the bracket that hold the fuse assembly. These are the only two screws inside the oven on the divider facing the oven. Remove the wire from the bracket and slide off the housing tube to expose the fuse , which is what needs to be replaced. ( I wasted a lot of time here thinking that I had to trace the wires and to replace them at their connection points and ended up cutting off all the ties for nothing). There maybe a way to replace the fuse at the original connection points, but I just cut out the bad fuse and connected the two ends of the new fuse to the old wire by using wire nuts. Place wire and fuse and bracket together as you found them.
4. Plug the oven in to see if it worked. If not, check all connections, if it still won't work, maybe fuse is not the problem.
5. If the oven comes back alive, you can spend the effort to put all parts back the way they were.
This fixed my oven!!!
Did you find this story helpful?
Thanks for voting and helping fellow customers!
Discussion
Discussion for Fuse Assembly - ( SP0010484 )
You need to be signed in to participate in the discussion.
You need to be signed in to particupate in the discussion.
Ask a question, answer a question, or post a comment!
  • Subject:
  •  
  • Comment:
  •  
Question: Back Order Timeline

1649685

hello, was wondering how long the backorder period on the BOV450XL/63 Fuse Assembly usually is or if it is even likely you will receive it.
Reply: Back Order Timeline

ShotOut

Hello, That cannot be answered here in the repair forum. Contact customer support at their phone number or via email.
visa mastercard discover american express PayPal
HACKER SAFE certified sites prevent over 99.9% of hacker crime.

fancyboxy