Coupling 032453

The overall problem was that the V-Seal had gotten hard and deteriorated. That allowed the mixture being blended to seep through the seal and into the bearing, where it displaced bearing lubrication and caked up. Eventually, the bearing seized up, which broke the ends of the teeth on the couplings, and the blender wouldn't turn freely.

Replacement parts needed: V-Seal, two couplings, and optionally a new fiber washer (depending on condition of the old one), and optionally replace the jar seal if the old one is worn, deteriorated or deformed.

Fix the Blending Assembly:
Disassemble the Blending Assembly using a 3/8" combination wrench on the nut at the top and turn the coupling either by hand or use a screwdriver between the teeth of the coupling for leverage. Note the coupling has a left-handed thread, meaning you must turn it clockwise to loosen it!

Once you remove the coupling, slide the blade and shaft assembly out of the top and thoroughly clean the shaft with a fine emery cloth or a scotchbright pad or similar, and clean out any muck on the inside of the bearing, being careful not to scratch up the bearing or shaft. The bearing itself is only a brass sleeve. Replace the V-Seal at the top of the shaft underneath the blades with a new seal, placing the smaller flared end facing downward toward the bearing holder.

Cover the shaft with Super Lube (or equivalent), either the oil or grease (the grease will last longer). Super Lube, according to its label, is food safe and should be safe to use. Slide the blade and shaft assembly back inside the bearing and put the washer back in place on the bottom (if necessary, replace the washer with a new one).

Optionally, place a little antiseize compound or graphite on the threads of the shaft before replacing the coupling to make it easier to remove in the future. Place a new coupling on the end of the shaft -- remember to tighten it by turning counter-clockwise. There's no need to make it too tight as it will naturally tighten itself when it's being used on the blender.

Replace Coupling on the Motor:
Remove the 4 suction cup feet from the holes on the bottom of plate of the blender. They are mildly glued in place but will pull out easily enough without much effort and generally hold themselves in place when replaced without needing to be re-glued.

Remove the four retaining screws out of the holes where the suction cups were located, using a philips-head screwdriver, and remove the bottom plate from the blender. There's no need to disconnect the wiring going through the bottom plate, as there's plenty of room to access the motor with it still connected.

Use either a flat-blade screwdriver or a pair of small vise grips on the bottom screw of the motor rotor to hold it firmly in place. In my case, the screwdriver didn't provide enough torque to hold it without slipping and I had to use small vise grips to hold it. Remove the old coupling from the top either by hand or using a screwdriver in the teeth of the old coupling for leverage. Remember to turn the coupling clockwise to loosen, since they are left-handed threads.

After removing the old coupling, optionally place a little antiseize compound or graphite on the threads to make it easier to disassemble in the future and replace the coupling with a new one, turning counter-clockwise to tighten. Make it good and snug, but there is no need to over-tighten it, as it will tighten on its on when in use on the blender.

Reinstall the bottom plate of the blender and the four retaining screws and four suction cups. The suction cups will generally stay in place on their own, but if needed, you can use a little rubber cement or similar to help them stay in place. Test the blender and make sure everything is functioning correctly, and optionally replace the jar seal if the old one is worn out, and you are done.

will call for return slip on thursday