Medium
More than 2 hours
Gearbox Asm-auger 918-04172C
OEM part for: MTD, Yard Machines, Yard Man, Troy-Bilt, Craftsman, Cub Cadet, Husky
Part Number: 918-04172C
$439.44
In Stock
Ships within 1 business day 
Compatibility
This Gearbox Asm-auger will fit the following 817 machines. Confirm this part works with your model, and view the detailed model diagrams and repair help we have to offer.
MTD
Yard Machines
Yard Man
Craftsman
Troy-Bilt
Cub Cadet
Husky
Show More Compatible ModelsThis item works with the following types of products:
- Snowblower Parts
This part replaces obsolete part #: 618-04172B, 918-04172B, 618-04172A, 618-04192, 618-04192A, 618-04192B, 918-04192B, 618-04172, 918-04192, 918-04172A, 918-04192A
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Customer Repair Instructions ?
All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part.
Auger gear box ground-flat all gears, creating a total auger failure in the Craftsman 26" snowblower - the gearbox is a pre-assembled part (you cannot just purchase new gears for the old box), so the
Michael - November 8, 2017
👍 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Tool Type
Snowblower
Difficulty
Medium
Time
More than 2 hours
Tools Used
Screwdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench Set, Adjustable Wrench, Vice grips
Parts Used
1. Empty oil and gas from snow blower (it will leak once you flip it over to make the repair).
2. Remove upper plastic cowling from snow blower, then flip over and remove the metal housing/cover to gain access to the under body gears that are driven by the motor. This is where a single screw is anchored into the auger drive shaft (which passes through the snow blower intake area where the auger meets the snow).
3. Take a picture of the drive-wheel area before you start removing parts (just to ensure you know how to put it back). Release springs that hold the drive wheel friction (this makes gaining access to the screw that holds the auger drive shaft MUCH easier). Be careful not to lose screws or springs as you break it down.
4. Locate the single screw, located above the drive pulley, and loosen the screw. it will slowly allow the auger drive shaft to slide out....but you may need to pull the auger shaft with force, pending on how long it's been there, or bent parts, etc. The space to get your wrench in there is painfully small - - this is where a set of needle nose vice grips may be handy (to hold the bolt so that it doesn't fall into the housing area...which is hard to recover.
5. Remove the tines from the old auger shaft, and replace them onto the new shaft EXACTLY how you took them off the old one. This must be done before you re-install the auger. Remove the side supports as well - these also must be in-place before you re-install the new auger shaft into the drive port. Set the old/broken shaft aside (it's junk).
6. Insert the new auger shaft into the same port, taking care to "seat" it correctly into both the drive shaft hole, and the pre-formed inset found within the drive pulley. If you find it's sitting a bit cockeyed, you're not seated fully....slowly rotate either the shaft or drive wheel pulley until they full seat FLAT. Once you get this, start to thread the bolt into the shaft. As you tighten, ensure everything is aligned before you fully tighten).
7. Tighten EVERYTHING you removed TIGHT. These things tend to vibrate themselves apart...do yourself a favor and crank-down on the bolts you're replacing (but don't over-torque or strip).
8. Replace all housing covers. Add oil. Add a small amount of gas. Test run it. There should be no rubbing inside the auger housing, or 1st or 2nd stage tines/blowers. If you're good, you're good...if not, see step#1 and do it again.
9. Good luck. It's not a super complicated job, but absolutely a pain the #$!.
2. Remove upper plastic cowling from snow blower, then flip over and remove the metal housing/cover to gain access to the under body gears that are driven by the motor. This is where a single screw is anchored into the auger drive shaft (which passes through the snow blower intake area where the auger meets the snow).
3. Take a picture of the drive-wheel area before you start removing parts (just to ensure you know how to put it back). Release springs that hold the drive wheel friction (this makes gaining access to the screw that holds the auger drive shaft MUCH easier). Be careful not to lose screws or springs as you break it down.
4. Locate the single screw, located above the drive pulley, and loosen the screw. it will slowly allow the auger drive shaft to slide out....but you may need to pull the auger shaft with force, pending on how long it's been there, or bent parts, etc. The space to get your wrench in there is painfully small - - this is where a set of needle nose vice grips may be handy (to hold the bolt so that it doesn't fall into the housing area...which is hard to recover.
5. Remove the tines from the old auger shaft, and replace them onto the new shaft EXACTLY how you took them off the old one. This must be done before you re-install the auger. Remove the side supports as well - these also must be in-place before you re-install the new auger shaft into the drive port. Set the old/broken shaft aside (it's junk).
6. Insert the new auger shaft into the same port, taking care to "seat" it correctly into both the drive shaft hole, and the pre-formed inset found within the drive pulley. If you find it's sitting a bit cockeyed, you're not seated fully....slowly rotate either the shaft or drive wheel pulley until they full seat FLAT. Once you get this, start to thread the bolt into the shaft. As you tighten, ensure everything is aligned before you fully tighten).
7. Tighten EVERYTHING you removed TIGHT. These things tend to vibrate themselves apart...do yourself a favor and crank-down on the bolts you're replacing (but don't over-torque or strip).
8. Replace all housing covers. Add oil. Add a small amount of gas. Test run it. There should be no rubbing inside the auger housing, or 1st or 2nd stage tines/blowers. If you're good, you're good...if not, see step#1 and do it again.
9. Good luck. It's not a super complicated job, but absolutely a pain the #$!.
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All our customer repair instructions are solicited directly from other customers just like you who have purchased and replaced this exact part. While we moderate these reviews for profanity, offensive language or personally identifiable information, these reviews are posted exactly as submitted and no alterations are made by our team.
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