Oil Seal

Removed engine from riding mower, turned it upside down, don't set it on fan, pushes crankshaft up enough it holds crankcase cover up so it won't seat, removed crankcase cover, cleaned and replaced gasket, replaced and torqued bolts, then reinstalled and filled with oil. Replaced PTO shaft seal while I was there. No leaks!

Removed Engine, removed oil pump, removed oil pan, spent a great deal of time removing the old gasket taking care to prevent pieces from entering the engine. Removed seal, reinstalled new seal, reinstalled new gasket, replaced oil pan, replaced oil pump and o-ring, reinstalled engine, installed new drive belt, started and checked for leaks and proper operating. Everything fit perfectly and now with a new dry drive belt the mower is once again moving forward and backward at the desired speed without the essence of burning belt and oil.

A note of caution, when reinstalling the oil pan over the non chamfered crankshaft the seal is very easily damaged. It requires assistance in the form of carefully manipulating the seal over the crankshaft. I used a jewelers hex screwdriver but any small blunt object to guide the seal without cutting would suffice. Also scribing a reference mark on the the governor arm and shaft ensures it goes back on in the proper position. If you forget to do this you must reference technical data for proper installation to prevent engine overspeed damage. Simple procedure but too long to write in space provided.

We removed the engine from tractor. Removed pan from engine to inspect cam shaft. The compression was ok reinstall. Remove and replace oil seal Remove old pan gasket and replace pan gasket and reinstalled. Taking care to install oil seal on shaft. Remove valve cover and remove and replace both push rods. Reassemble and install back on tractor. Start and check for leaks and operation. Have 28years in small engine repair

1 Removed engine from lawn tractor.
2 On workbench, removed oil pump cover & pump. Split oil sump from engine.
3 Cleaned off old gasket & removed shaft oil seal. Discarded 10 old mounting bolts.
4 Installed new gasket & oil seal.
5 Mounted sump back on engine using 10 new bolts provided with gasket kit.
6 Used torque wrench to tighten bolts per instructional sheet.
7 Reinstalled oil pump & cover. Suggestion: Purchase new o-ring also when ordering parts.
8 Changed oil filter & added oil at this time
looking for initial leaks.
9 Reassembled engine back on mower. Note: Verify governor setting.
10 Started at low speed, ran engine to operating temperature then full throttle to assure no leaks.

Disconnected the engine from frame. Turned it upside down. Removed the crank case bolts. Lifted up the crank case. Replaced the gasket. Put it all back in reverse.

Removed engine from frame . usded STP on seal and shaft sleeve. Used pipe to drive in seal.

Rebuild the engine by replacing the rings

took motor out , made repairs ..

completely disassembled engine except for crank and flywheel and reassembled using new parts and gaskets I also reseated the valves while the head was off

Removed motor from mower. Drained oil. Disassembled and removed oil sump pan. Replaced crank seal cleaned surfaces. Installed new gasket on oil sump pan. Reassembled and torqued new bolts to correct spec. Reassembled mower. Added oil and new filters. Started engine. Reassembled mower deck and belts after confirming no leaks. Total time on this project from start to finish approximately 5 hours performed with all the correct tools and mechanical knowledge.