Oil Seal

Removed engine from riding mower, turned it upside down, don't set it on fan, pushes crankshaft up enough it holds crankcase cover up so it won't seat, removed crankcase cover, cleaned and replaced gasket, replaced and torqued bolts, then reinstalled and filled with oil. Replaced PTO shaft seal while I was there. No leaks!

Removed Engine, removed oil pump, removed oil pan, spent a great deal of time removing the old gasket taking care to prevent pieces from entering the engine. Removed seal, reinstalled new seal, reinstalled new gasket, replaced oil pan, replaced oil pump and o-ring, reinstalled engine, installed new drive belt, started and checked for leaks and proper operating. Everything fit perfectly and now with a new dry drive belt the mower is once again moving forward and backward at the desired speed without the essence of burning belt and oil.

A note of caution, when reinstalling the oil pan over the non chamfered crankshaft the seal is very easily damaged. It requires assistance in the form of carefully manipulating the seal over the crankshaft. I used a jewelers hex screwdriver but any small blunt object to guide the seal without cutting would suffice. Also scribing a reference mark on the the governor arm and shaft ensures it goes back on in the proper position. If you forget to do this you must reference technical data for proper installation to prevent engine overspeed damage. Simple procedure but too long to write in space provided.

We removed the engine from tractor. Removed pan from engine to inspect cam shaft. The compression was ok reinstall. Remove and replace oil seal Remove old pan gasket and replace pan gasket and reinstalled. Taking care to install oil seal on shaft. Remove valve cover and remove and replace both push rods. Reassemble and install back on tractor. Start and check for leaks and operation. Have 28years in small engine repair

1 Removed engine from lawn tractor.
2 On workbench, removed oil pump cover & pump. Split oil sump from engine.
3 Cleaned off old gasket & removed shaft oil seal. Discarded 10 old mounting bolts.
4 Installed new gasket & oil seal.
5 Mounted sump back on engine using 10 new bolts provided with gasket kit.
6 Used torque wrench to tighten bolts per instructional sheet.
7 Reinstalled oil pump & cover. Suggestion: Purchase new o-ring also when ordering parts.
8 Changed oil filter & added oil at this time
looking for initial leaks.
9 Reassembled engine back on mower. Note: Verify governor setting.
10 Started at low speed, ran engine to operating temperature then full throttle to assure no leaks.

Disconnected the engine from frame. Turned it upside down. Removed the crank case bolts. Lifted up the crank case. Replaced the gasket. Put it all back in reverse.

Drained oil, removed fuel line from motor, disconnected throttle cable and starter cable, removed motor from tractor.Put motor on the bench replaced lower oil seal and sparkplugs replaced oil filter. Reinstalled motor on tractor replaced fuel filter reinstalled fuel line, throttle and starter cables, replaced air filter, filled with oil start and check for leaks.

Pulled the engine, removed the oil sump, replaced the cam. Reset the valves and replaced gaskets and power take off side oil seal. Reset the valves because I replaced the valve seats. Replaced both drive belts. When installing the oil seal you must get it square in the oil sum cover or it will not seat squarely on the shaft and ruin the seal.

Pulled the engine removed the sump, replaced the cam, installed new gaskets and belts. You must have the torque specifications for the sump bolts and the power take off pully.

removed engine from the lawn tractor. then turn it upside down to remove the crankcase to make the repairs.

Repair was more physical than mental. Drained engine oil, then removed engine from tractor and flip it upside down to remove sump. Scrap off old gasket. Used kerosene to clean sump and parts I removed. Sopped up rest of oil left in the crankcase. Popped seal out and replace with new one. Took oil pump apart and cleaned. Inspected O-ring for damage. Was ok, so reused it. Put new gasket on and then the sump pan. Careful not to fold the crankcase seal. Used the new bolts that came with the gasket kit and torqued to specs. ( 300 inch lbs. or 25 ft. lbs. ) Put on new oil filter and filled with oil. Put engine back in tractor and reconnected all electrical cables, gas line, throttle, and choke cables. Set governor. Started and inspected for leaks. Job is not technically hard. Lots of videos online that will show you step by step how to do it. The hard part is just physically crawling around, and under the mower, lifting a heavy V-twin engine out of the tractor, then repeating the process to put it back in. I took my time since I had some before the parts arrived.