Oil Filter

1. Removed Engine Air Shroud and Air Cleaner Housing.
2. Removed and Replaced Pre Air Cleaner and Air Cleaner Cartridges.
3. Removed and replaced oil and fuel filters.
4. Removed, Gapped and replaced Spark Plugs
5. Drained and added new oil.
6. Oil drain plug on Briggs & Stratton engine was a little different in that there was a cap and the drain plug acted as a valve. To drain oil you had to rotate it.

Operation are self explanatory.

Removed carburetor gas tank and gas pump. I drained all the old gas out of the tank and used a hanger and a rag and moped the tank. then i rebuilt the carburetor I first took it apart and soaked it then I sprayed all the jets out. then put carburetor together. then put carburetor back on put new gas hose,gas filter,and gas pump. I did not want to recontaminate the carburetor.

1. Removed engine cover.
2. Drained fuel tank and disconnected hose
3. Removed carburetor and disassembled. ( removed float bowl, float, needle, and jets.
cleaned carb. Removed seat by tapping with 1/4 inch tap, installing 1/4 inch bolt and
pulled seat.)
4. Reassembled carb. by pressing in seat, reinstalling cleaned jets and replacing needle
and float. Reinstalled float bowl and solenoid with gaskets provided in kit.
5. Reinstalled carburetor on tractor and replaced air filter.
6. Hooked up fuel line and filled fuel tank. ( checked to see if needle and seat were holding.)
7. Changed oil and filter.
8. Started tractor and adjusted carburetor. ( Had to cut plastic cap off adjustment screw and
cut notch in end of screw for screwdriver.)

Took pic...removed deck from under tractor, left cable attached....took pic....replaced belt and then spring...reconnected all pins..reinstalled deck back under tractor...connected drag links....changed fuel filter...changed oil and filter...pretty straight forward...craftsman 42" 21.5 OHV Twin...well built

1) Drained the engine oil
2) Removed the old oil filter
3) Replaced the oil filter
4) Fill the crankcase with new oil
5) Removed the ail cleaner cover
6) Removed the old air filter and pre filter
7) Installed the new pre filter onto the new air filter
8) Installed the new air and pre filters
9) Installed the new air filter cover
10) Start and ran the engine until warm
11) Let the engine cool and verify the oil level
12) All done, all good

Removed old oil filter and drained oil. Put in new filter and new oil.

I jumped the gun initially and pulled the engine from the tractor, thinking the connecting rod had broken. I should have checked the valve push rods first. That would have saved me the time of removing the engine from the tractor and replacing the pan gasket and crankshaft oil seal.
It was pretty simple after I determined that my problem was the push rods. I removed the bent rod installed the new one I purchased from eReplacementParts.com. Adjusted the valves(You can find several youtube videos to guide you through this procedure). The engine started right up and I mowed about two hours with it this weekend.
I wish I could tell you why the push rod bent, but I can't. If anyone has an explnation I would love to here it.

1. Removed the head.
2. Checked for damage, found a sticky valve and a bent push-rod.
3. Replaced the valve parts and the push-rod. Runs fine now.

Drained the oil, then twisted the old filter off and twisted the new filter on. Put a little oil on the bottom ring of the filter to make it seal better. Then put fresh oil in the engine.