Switch 651868-3

Split the drill body apart by removing the several screws that hold it together. Gently lift one side away from the other, leaving all the guts lying in one side. Pull the trigger assembly away from the body and pull the wires out of the trigger assembly. Use a small flat head screwdriver to release the wires from the trigger assembly. Keep track of which wire goes where. Put the wires from the drill motor into the appropriate holes, then do the same for the new power cord, and re-install the new trigger assembly into the drill body. Fit the other half of the drill body back to the main half and make sure everything seats well, then replace the screws.

Note the color/location of each wire first. Wires were removed from old switch by pushing a needle in next to each wire and pulling out the wire. It may be necessary to tin the wire ends to make them more rigid for reinserting. Push each wire into the new switch.

1. Split the drill case.
2. Disconnected the wiring.
3. Removed the switch.
4. Connected the wiring to the new switch verifying the proper connections using a diagram.
5. Lubed the bearings.
6. Assembled the case.
7. Tested. Ready for service.

1. I examined the replacement parts.
2. The power chord supplied by your company did not include the required strain relief.
3. I modified the new power chord by cutting off the strain relief from the old chord set and installing it on the new chord set. (24 hour cure time for the epoxy used to attach the strain relief.)
4. I removed the defective switch and chord set.
5. Since no instructions were included, I contacted your customer service to obtain a schematic of my drill.
6. No schematic was available from your company, but I was given the phone number of MAKITA customer service who supplied the required documentation.
7. The compression connectors on the switch required several attempts to attach the power chord and additional internal wiring to the switch. (There was little tolerance to insert each wire into the mounting holes on the switch utilizing a jeweler's screw driver.)
8. I reassemble the components on the drill body including the new switch dust cover. (A slot was not provided on the dust cover to allow the rotation direction control to protrude.)
9. I then successfully tested the drill.

I watched one of your Youtube videos. I initially thought the problem might be the plug. But by watching your video on diagnosing the problem, I used an ohm meter and determined it was the switch. I found it very helpful.

Took one wire off old switch one at a time to new switch

removed screws from drill case
separated drill case
disconnected switch
connected new switch
installed new brushes
connected new cord
put drill case back together

1-Removed screws holding 2 halves of drill together
2-Disconnected wires from old switch & cord. Small screwdriver was needed to disconnect wires.
3-Replaced switch , dust cover and cord.
4-Reassembled drill halves.

By taking photos of switch and cord connections before disconnecting wires helped with reassembly.

After removing the cover to expose the switch and motor area I proceeded to remove and replace the brushes then I removed the switch pulling each wire from the old switch and installing it on the replacement switch one by one in order so I wouldn't put the colored wire in the wrong place a the new switch. Peace of cake!

experimented with different methods to get the wires disconnected from the old switch. I eventually used a paper clip with one leg bent out which allowed me to grip the clip and punch in on the spring connectors to release the wires. then I reversed the process with the same paper clip. the connecting wires were not stiff enough to push in the spring connectors on their own. I did them one out - then back in at a time - so not to stick it in the wrong connector. Works well now, good as new !

Here is a video on these types of switches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFVGyf6uODM