Part Location Diagram of 1619PA5609 Bosch Tool RUBBER RING
See part 28 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )

RUBBER RING 1619PA5609

Manufactured by:
Bosch Tool
ERP Number:
ERP19506027
Part Number:
1619PA5609
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In Stock
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1- 2 hours 

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This part works with the following brands:
  • Bosch
This part works with the following products:
  • Table Saw
  • Miscellaneous
Part# 1619PA5609 replaces these:
1619PA5609,

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Customer Repair Instructions

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A Bit Difficult 

1- 2 hours 

(22 rated repairs) ?
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Rear bearing on armature wore out

Mark from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

23 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
2610911928, 1619PA5609
Use a bearing puller if you have one to get the old bearing off the armature, otherwise see the video on bearing removal on the eReplacementParts website. A rubber ring rather than a retaining clip is used to hold the bearing and armature assembly against the rear motor housing and the old ring, being black, can be hard to see in the dep ression in the motor housing. It may still be usable but it\'s probably better to install a new one in case the old one got torn up when the bearing failed. Install the new rubber ring, seat the bearing using the socket/mallet method (see video) and press the rear motor housing against the main housing enough to get the screws started. Torquing down the screws will draw everything snugly together. When you first start the motor, there may be a smell of burning rubber because the moving parts of the bearing may rub for a few seconds against some of the rubber ring, but this won\'t last very long.
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Motor bearings worn out

Daniel from Sterling, Massachusetts

12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1.) Bosch 4000 Table Saw w gravity rise stand. Removed blade and then table saw from stand (4 bolts)
2.) Turned table saw upside down and removed plastic table support frame from cast table to access motor (4 allen-head cap screws & 2 small bolts).
3.) Removed brushes (2)
4.) Removed motor end cap (3 screws) to expose re ar motor bearing and wiring to motor field
5.) Removed motor housing from cast gear box/blade support (4 screws). Armature remained in gear box.
6.) Removed armature by pulling out of gear box and front bearing
7.) Removed front bearing retainer (2 screws) and removed bearing with inside puller. Replaced with new bearing and re-attached retainer.
8.) Removed rear bearing by cutting off with dremel and cutting wheel. The outer bearing had fallen off with ball bearings so only inner race remained on armature shaft and nothing for puller to grab to...so had to cut off.
9.) Replaced new bearing on shaft and cleaned armature with damp rag and a little brake cleaner.
10.) Removed wire nut caps from field wiring and rear motor cap (which contains speed control board). Removed 2 bolts that held field in motor housing. Removed field from motor housing by tapping out from rear.
11.) Replace with new field. Reattached wire nuts and tightened 2 bolts.
12.) Added grease to armature shaft gear end and reinstalled cast gear housing/blade support.
13.) Reassembled saw in reverse order
14.) Replaced saw blade
15.) Plugged in and ran like new. Parts for $100 saved my $600 table saw. Tool retailers wanted $300 minimum to begin repair which would be used towards the final repair bill. Glad I did it myself, but you should have some mechanical and electric motor knowledge and able to keep parts in order during disassembly.
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Loud, high-pitched squeal, then motor would not start after cooling down

Peter from Los Angeles, California

12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I surmised a bearing issue and validated my idea via internet searching for Bosch T-4000 table saw maintenance, finding several articles on bearing, brush, armature, and field replacement, but no articles on performing bearing lubrication or maintenance. e-Replacement had very good diagrams of the saw and saw motor, so I removed the motor and found the bearing on the commutator end of the armature badly burned and rough, the rubber ring melted and the end of the motor housing melted. I ordered the parts and when they arrived, I replaced the bearing, rubber cap that holds it securely in the motor housing, the housing itself, the brushes (even though they looked to be in fairly good shape and just slightly chipped on one edge), and transferred the necessary parts from the old housing.
The armature and the field both had a thin layer of the melted rubber ring and the melted end of the housing over much of their metal surfaces which I carefully sanded off with very fine Wet-or-Dry sandpaper (armature and commutator) and a cylinder hone (for the field).

The hardest part was fitting the motor housing end cap back onto the motor housing due to the very limited space and getting the wires and butt-joints into their exact locations so that the cap fit back on and seated into place. I used an old bicycle spoke to prod the wires and butt-caps into place to get everything aligned. Take a picture, take notes, or make a drawing of how the wires fit in the cap if or when you remove it from the motor housing to save yourself the time it took me.

I have now ordered the other 3 bearings in the motor, though the rest seem okay and I was able to carefully pry out the seal from the other armature bearing and refill it with grease before putting everything back together.

I will also try to seal any excess holes in the housing for the vacuum port so that I can keep the motor cleaner. I will also always connect a vacuum hose from my Dust Deputy and shop vac when using this saw to keep sawdust out of the motor.
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The rear bearing on the armature seized and the resultant heat melted a section of the motor housing causing the table saw to lock up.

mary from richmond, Illinois

6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
Bosch 4000 table saw repair. Remove the rear motor housing (3 Phillips screws) then uncrimp the 3 wires attached to the field winding/carbon brushes. The next step is to remove the four phillips screws that hold the motor housing to the inner gear box. Pull housing towards you to remove. I used a gear puller to remove the bad armature b earing, then proceeded to degrease and clean the armature with electromotive cleaner. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
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The motor tried to run but couldn\'t. It just mostly growled.

DM from Melba , Idaho

5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
2610911928, 1619PA5609
I took the table saw off of the stand and turned it upside down. At first I thought it was just the brushes and when I took the old ones out they were not worn down but were chipped off at the contact end. So I checked the bearing and sure enough it was seized up. Ordered an new one and a rubber ring. I took the back end of the motor casi ng off and used a bearing puller to get the old one off the shaft, put the new one on and put it back together. simple and took less time than it would have taken to take it in to a repair shop.
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Bearing failed..started to get hot and burn rubber cover

Mark from CAMANO ISLAND, Washington

4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
2610004595, 1619PA5609
Set saw angle to 45 degrees lock in place.
Tip saw to get to motor from bottom
Remove red handle and release rod
Remove cover where wires go in.
Let that hang
Remove motor brushes
Remove motor housing 4 phillips screws
Rotate housing 45 degrees
Wiggle and use small screwdrivers to pry
Cover and field come off armature
If you are replacing bearing exposed on brush end...do it while the armature is in the saw.
Removing the armature requires screws and adjusters on the blade end to come off...you lose all the adjustments and cost yourself an extra hour.
Pull bearing...you need just the right size puller.
Use a socket or pipe to push the new bearing on...not a serious tight fit..you need to push/pound on the race closest to the shaft to not damage the bearing.
Rubber cup is in plastic housing cap...mine was damaged....right puller was my biggest hassle...took one apart and used it differently than intended!
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Front Bearing in motor blew up. I replaced both bearing even though there was nothing wrong with the rear bearing.

Rick from Newalla, Oklahoma

4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
1, Removed end cap from motor
2. Remove outer plastic case.
3. Removed plastic blade housing cover.
4. Removed front metal gear assembly cover.
5. Removed Armature from gear housing.
6. Used bearing puller to remove front bearing
7 Used Large 1/2 drive socket to install new bearing
8 Removed & re placed front rubber ring seal
9. Remove and replace rear bearing.
10. Cleaned gears and housing.
11. Repacked axle grease around gears, bearing and inside housing
12. Reassembled in the reverse order.

Note: The hardest part of this is reinstalling the two screws that hold the armature assembly to the front gear housing. There is a metal plate that the two screws that go through the housing into the metal plate on top of the armature. That plate is free-floating and there is about a 1/4\" of clearance between the housing and the plate and the top of the armature assembly. Gravity is your enemy trying to get the plate and the screw to line up because there is NO room to put a screwdriver tip or anything inside the space. I tried for over an hour to get one of the screws started again with no success. Finally I went to my screw bin and found a 2\" screw the same size and thread pattern as the original and use my scratch awl to line up one side of the plate to the hole. I use the long screw in the opposite side of the plate to temporarily screw it in and bring the plate to the top, where it was supposed to be, then removed the scratch awl, and put in one of the original screws and tightened it. Then I was able to remove the long screw and put the other original screw in the other side. After that was done I tightened both of the original screws and and rest took about 15 minutes. Maybe this will help someone else in doing this bearing replacement?
This repair was on a Bosch Model 4100 table saw, which by the way is a GREAT saw!

Rick
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Rear motor bearing burned out

Bob from Bishop, California

3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
1619PA5609
First I searched the repairparts website for a manual and diagrams. Removed the motor housing which required enough force and prying with a screwdrive to worry me I might be doing damage. (Others\' reports said this part was \'easy\'. Hah!)

Once the rear housing containing the brushes and rear bearing support was free the fie ld assembly came away easily. I did realize, late, it would have made things easier to have removed the brushes first, and then to separate the case.

The rear bearing, housed in the rear housing, had burned up the rubber ring. A mess. It was an awkward reach to dig out the hard, burned-on residue of rubber in the rear housing. I used a drill to grind part of it away.

I had ordered the rubber ring, and the new bearing, and new brushes. Had to keep digging to get enough of the old rubber ring out so the new one could seat. At that, it took a good deal of effort to get it and the new bearing seated. That part was only complete when I tightened down the bolts that hold the rear housing and field assembly to the front part of the motor housing.

The old brushes looked about 85% wear remaining after 6 years use on remodel projects.

I would like to have replaced the front motor bearing also but could not figure out how to tear down that end without a sense of risking further damage. Did not find complete or clear enough instructions on that part.

The how-I-fixed-it accounts of quite a few others really helped.
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Rear bearing froze on the motor.

Greg from SEARSPORT, Maine

2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
1. Removed the bearing.
2. Cleaned out the armature.
3. Installed the new bearing.
4. Installed the new brushes.
5. Installed the new motor cover/casing.
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Bosch table saw (4100) seized bearing/armature

Dennis from Saugerties, New York

2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Socket set
Parts Used:
2610997207, 1619PA5609
Thanks to the e-replacement on-line forum, I was able to diagnose the problem, order the appropriate bearing (from VXB.com), and complete the rebuild. As suggested,
1). remove the blade,
2) tilt to 45 degrees to provide access to the phillips head screws in order to
3) remove the motor housing. From there it was simpl y a matter of
4) removing the frozen/roached bearing with a bearing puller, cleaning up the armature, and replacing the bearing with a few taps from 10 mm socket and
5) replacing the carbon brushes

Motor now spins like a top!
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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:
ERP Number: ERP19506027
Manufacturer Part Number: 1619PA5609
Brand Model Number Description
Bosch 4100XC Table Saw - 4100xc Table Saw
Bosch MISC Miscellaneous - Misc