Oil Seal

Removed engine from tractor
Watched a few YouTube videos on how to dismantle engine
Unbolted sump pan and pulled apart carefully
Cleaned gasket material off with scraper and sandpaper
Used gasket sealer with gasket to replace old gasket
Reassembled and torqued to 225 inch lbs the bolts in a cross pattern

Gotchas: Be careful of the governor assembly
Oil seal is a challenge to remove
During reassembly turn the crank to line up the governor gear to the cam sprocket
Be sure the timing marks line up between crank and cam gears

Drain the oil, remove motor from the frame, turned upside down to remove crankcase cover, pulled old cam-shaft out, found broken compression spring unattached, put in new parts, gaskets, seals, then adjusted compression valves to 0.004 change oil filter and put fresh oil in. The part fit perfectly! Thank you for helping me with my problems.

Thank you!

I disconnected the battery,starter,removed crank drive pulley,remover motor bolts that hold it to the frame. One the motor was free, I drained the oil,removed the motor from the frame, and turned it upside down on wood framed roll around. Then removed the crankcase, cleaned and removed the old gasket and used a seal remover tool to remove the crank seal. I installed a new seal turned the case bottom side down installed the governor and snapped it into place. I cleaned the block to remove the rest of the gasket. I then installed the new crank gasket, turned the crank case over and slid it over the oiled crank down to the cam gear and lined up the governor gear and cam gear and the case slipped into place. I installed the 7 bolts and tightened them down in sequence and torque to spec, turned the motor back over installed on the frame of my garden tractor. Reinstalled the 4 bolts that holds the motor in, replaced the main pulley, connected the starter, connected the choke, throttle cables, filled the crankcase with oil, connected the battery and started the motor and let kit run for a while and checked for leaks and there were none. Mower is ready to go back to work.

1. Disconnect starter wires, carburator cable and gas hose drain oil
2. Remove drive belt pulley and belt
3. Unbolt motor and lift off frame
4. Turn motor upside down unbolt sump pan
6. Remove seal from pan, clean and install new seal and sump gasket
7. Reverse steps, refill oil make all connections
8. Start and check for any leaks

Take crank covers off, clean parts, use engine assembly lube when putting movable parts back together, torque bolts down to specifications. The fuel filter is between two hose clamps. Slide the clamps back, take out the old fuel filter and replace. If the hose clamps are weak, replace.

1.Order the parts from ereplacementparts.
2. Pulled motor from tractor
3. Drained oil
4. Pulled fly wheel
5. Opened up motor removed piston and cleaned motor .
6. Installed new rings and gaskets .
7. Installed motor on tractor . added oil and fired up ! ran great with new rings ,very happy, thanks .
All this took about 5 hours , not a bad job for a beginner.

Removed carb. and installed link-air and it was bottom oil seal leaking.I removed engine (4-bolts) and bottom pulley, removed old seal,installed new one.Bolted engine back on mower,replaced bottom pulley and belt.I changed the oil,and that was it. wasn't hard at all.

Removed the engine, only four bolts and one pulley. Drained the oil into a container. Turned engine upside down took a small punch and taped the old seal on one side until it raised up and removed it. Cleaned the area well and installed the new seal a small amount of oil on the sealing surface. Reinstalled engine filled with oil and away we went.

I removed the engine from the lawn tractor, split the crankcase, cleaned old gasket, and installed new sump gasket. I replaced the old oil seal, (pto side) and reinstalled engine. No more oil leaks. Thanks guys.