Oil Seal

Removed engine from tractor
Watched a few YouTube videos on how to dismantle engine
Unbolted sump pan and pulled apart carefully
Cleaned gasket material off with scraper and sandpaper
Used gasket sealer with gasket to replace old gasket
Reassembled and torqued to 225 inch lbs the bolts in a cross pattern

Gotchas: Be careful of the governor assembly
Oil seal is a challenge to remove
During reassembly turn the crank to line up the governor gear to the cam sprocket
Be sure the timing marks line up between crank and cam gears

1. Disconnect starter wires, carburator cable and gas hose drain oil
2. Remove drive belt pulley and belt
3. Unbolt motor and lift off frame
4. Turn motor upside down unbolt sump pan
6. Remove seal from pan, clean and install new seal and sump gasket
7. Reverse steps, refill oil make all connections
8. Start and check for any leaks

Take crank covers off, clean parts, use engine assembly lube when putting movable parts back together, torque bolts down to specifications. The fuel filter is between two hose clamps. Slide the clamps back, take out the old fuel filter and replace. If the hose clamps are weak, replace.

1.Order the parts from ereplacementparts.
2. Pulled motor from tractor
3. Drained oil
4. Pulled fly wheel
5. Opened up motor removed piston and cleaned motor .
6. Installed new rings and gaskets .
7. Installed motor on tractor . added oil and fired up ! ran great with new rings ,very happy, thanks .
All this took about 5 hours , not a bad job for a beginner.

Removed carb. and installed link-air and it was bottom oil seal leaking.I removed engine (4-bolts) and bottom pulley, removed old seal,installed new one.Bolted engine back on mower,replaced bottom pulley and belt.I changed the oil,and that was it. wasn't hard at all.

Removed the engine, only four bolts and one pulley. Drained the oil into a container. Turned engine upside down took a small punch and taped the old seal on one side until it raised up and removed it. Cleaned the area well and installed the new seal a small amount of oil on the sealing surface. Reinstalled engine filled with oil and away we went.

I removed the engine from the lawn tractor, split the crankcase, cleaned old gasket, and installed new sump gasket. I replaced the old oil seal, (pto side) and reinstalled engine. No more oil leaks. Thanks guys.

Removed engine from tractor drained oil from sump removed bottom pan removed seal cleaned old gasket replaced gasket and seal. Reassemble installed new oil and dipstick seal. Moved engine to tractor, installed and started up. No oil leak

I disassembled the engine. I discovered that the rod had seized to the crank, but I had shut it down before the rod broke. I soaked the aluminum off from the crank using oven cleaner and then polished the crank in a lathe. I marked all the parts and found the engine to be in spec, so I installed the rings, slid the piston home, torqued the rod to spec and turned the engine over to check for binding. It was fine, so I torqued the rest of the crankcase and head to spec. After reinstalling the engine to the tractor I added oil and fuel and it fired it up. I let it run for a couple minutes keeping an eye on things. It seemed fine so I took it out mowing. I like to break an engine in under load with out abusing it, so I put it under a varying load at various throttle settings. After about an hour of this, it had quit smoking and was running nicely.

One additional thing I did that doesn't pertain to the original problem is bring the valves to spec. On this engine, the stems have to be ground a bit at a time. I also tapped the valves to the seats. I consider the project a success. The parts come with any unusual techniques or specs needed to do this.