If the item number 21 has no listing with the parts, it means it is no longer available.

Hello Pressurewasher21 You provide quite an interesting description of the cylinder head on this engine. Is there any way you can post a photo? I was unaware it was built that way. Here is all I see and I actually own one. I have not disassembled this model before:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/honda-gcv160-type-a1avin-gjae10000019999999-small-engine-parts-c-37657_37658_37988_37768.html

Hi Blackburn40 See if any of these are like the one you need. I have a GCV160 Pressure washer too.

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Hi bobender There are more than one gasket between the air cleaner and the engine. I just replaced them on MY GCV160. You can easily get the 4 piece gasket set available for the Honda GCV160 Intake. There are plenty of replacement carburetors available as well. The stock carb is a Japanese Keihin carb. An OEM replacement is not cheap. The aftermarket Chinese replacement clone carburetors look the same, do the same job and cost almost 2/3 less than a Keihin. Search Honda GCV160 on ebay for the best deals on gaskets and carbs. See link below. Those parts are available on here if you choose.

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The unloaded isn't working. Check in your owner's manual to see how to remove it and service.

Hi Bill, I have one of these engines. I have not been in it too much internally, just to check the valve lash. This is an OHC engine. The cam I think is plastic. There must be an issue with your camshaft albeit an odd one for sure. .04" certainly is cause for alarm. I would start by checking the condition of the rocker on the Intake and the camshaft itself. You may need to verify the valve is seating and nothing is amiss there. Please repost and let me know what you find!
I just finished reading in a forum where a guy had one that the adjusting nut for the lash stripped the threads . They determined it to be a factory defect; so it will be quite interesting once the cause reveals itself.
There could be a problem with the valve spring as well.

ShotOut: Thanks so much for the response. I checked the cam and it appears OK. I have decided to order a new rocker arm to see for sure whether the existing one is bent. If it's not, sounds like you would suggest dismantling the machine to inspect the valve seat, rather than simply adjusting the lash to spec and trying to fire it up. Correct? Thanks, Bill

Hi Bill, I agree. Try setting your valves to spec. A bent valve that got bent from sticking could cause a large lash as well. If it will not run, then maybe remove the rocker cover and inspect that whole valve train real good. I suppose a rocker arm on these engines could get bent too.

Very well. I have adjusted the lash to spec, but doing so took up almost all of the adjustment travel.

I have just ordered the new rocker arm. Once it gets here, if I find that the existing arm is bent, then I will install the new one, readjust the lash and should be good to go.

If the existing arm is not bent, then I will dismantle the machine and have a close look at the valve and seat.

Thanks again for the advise. I'll report back shortly.

Hi bill70j That sounds like an excellent plan. Will the engine start and run? Please keep me posted as we all stand to learn something from this one. Thanks for the update!

I already received a new intake valve rocker arm in the mail today.

Recall that I had previously set the valve lash to spec with the old rocker arm, which I thought had been bent.

So took the old one off, replaced it with the new one. And it became immediately obvious that the old rocker arm was not bent.

So I don't know why I have developed a mysterious 0.040" valve lash. I am going to make up a temporary paper cover gasket, put the machine back together, fill it with oil and see what happens.

It the engine starts, I imagine it will kill itself in short order. I'll be back in there either replacing a broken rocker arm, resetting the valve lash, or who knows what else.

I'll report back tomorrow.

Thanks again ShotOut, for all of your help. I have just had a partial success.

I reinstalled the head cover and temporary gasket, filled the machine with oil, and fired the thing up. The following is what happened. Would appreciate your thoughts.

Are these symptoms consistent with what you're thinking is the problem? Or could I have another unrelated fuel delivery problem?

1) Closed choke
2) Pulled the started rope 10 times - nothing
3) On the 11th pull, a whimper. I'm excited
4) On the 12th through the 30th pull, it runs for 2 seconds at about half speed, then dies
5) On the 31st pull, it keeps running, though at half speed. Now I'm really excited
6) I let it run for 2 minutes for warm-up, then close the choke. Stops firing. I immediately open the choke again and it resumes running, again at half speed
7) I repeat #6 several more times and the same thing happens - the machine will only run at half speed, and dies when I open the choke.

Is my next step to pull the head and find out what the valve guides, valves, and seats are telling me?

Thanks again. I truly appreciate the help.

Regards, Bill

Hello again Bill, You are certainly welcome. Thanks for keeping us posted. I know that the Honda carburetors are quite finnicky and need to be squeaky clean to work properly. It ALMOST sounds like a fuel system problem. BUT..... I have gone back and read your first post, and think the Intake Valve is creating the issue. If the machine runs at 1/2 power, the Intake valve may be slightly bent and not seating completely. Only running at choke and dying when you open the choke indicates a BAD LEAN fuel condition. It is not getting enough fuel to keep running without being choked. A compression test is not real informative because these engines have a compression release mechanism built on the camshaft. They can go bad, but it is a little rare. If one WAS to go bad, the symptoms would be quite similar with what you are experiencing because the compression release holds one of the valves slightly open on the compression stroke (likely the Intake valve). If your fuel filters are good, and the carb is not dirty....then a bad Intake valve or malfunctioning ACR (Automatic Compression Release) would likely be the culprit. Why not maybe pull the cylinder head if your fuel system is OK and have a GOOD look at that Intake Valve. When you initially sprayed that valve stem with carb cleaner, you may not have gotten ALL the goo off of it. There could be some more further up the stem and inside the valve guide as well. An Intake valve partially sticking open would create a BAD LEAN condition. Let me know what you find. I will be here.
Just for your info regarding the valves and timing; On the bottom of the cam, there are two lines that should line up with the edge of the valve cover sealing area, and the keyway on the crank is perfectly perpendicular with that line, that is how you check the belt timing.

Thanks again for your great advice. I am going to pull the cover this morning and see what the lash looks like on the intake valve. If it's still to spec, then I'll go right to the carb.

If the intake valve lash is 0", and then some, that may indicate trash is clearing from the guide, stem, and seat, No?

The timing should be set properly, as the marks on the bottom side of the cam line up properly with the housing.

Thanks again for your help. I'll do some stuff today and post findings.

Regards, Bill

ShotOut:

I pulled the head cover this morning and found the lash settings still to be right on spec.

So my next move will be to pull the carb and see if there is anything strange there. If not, it's off with the head.

Thanks again for your help. I'll post again shortly.

Regards, Bill

Hi bill70j What have you found? Update please!

ShotOut:

Thanks for asking! I removed and inspected the carburetor and found it to be clean and in adjustment. So next comes head removal and inspection.

I'll report on what I find. Is there a way to post photos here? Once I get a look at the head they could be very telling.

Thanks, Bill

ShotOut:

Thanks for asking! I removed and inspected the carburetor and found it to be clean and in adjustment. So next comes head removal and inspection.

I'll report on what I find. Is there a way to post photos here? Once I get a look at the head they could be very telling.

Thanks, Bill

Hi bill70j This OHC engine does not actually have a head. I initially thought it may but it is a different design than a regular OHV motor with pushrods. The case splits in two at an angle, so everything you have seen and inspected so far is pretty much all there is to the top end. The case would have to be split and the piston removed to observe the valve seats. The stems and guides though, you can access under the rocker cover. There is no head to remove. I know because I wanted to remove the carbon from the piston on one I am currently working on, but would need to split the crankcase to do so.

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Bill, Have you split the case and examined the Intake valve for straightness, seating and smooth operation in the guide? Let me know. Here are all the valve train parts. Note that the Cam Lobes are on the Camshaft pulley and not the Camshaft itself. Ingenious design.

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I put photos in dropbox at:

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Doesn't like links, try this and remove spaces and carriage returns and parentheses, etc.

tinyurl
com (of course with a period before com)

forward slash
ptmsh2e

FOUND IT! Wow, I was looking too low, it's on a wide metal casting right under the fan shroud. Just looked blank, but after looking at another angle and with sun in different location, noticed some numbers. Careful wiping and tilting head all over and I found the numbers. Whew!

Hi RichE I have two on pressure washers but after reading your posts, won't have to go through what you did! We're glad you found it. They like to make it a challenge, don't they?

Hello navydad2015,

The Honda part number 16016-ZG0-W00 Screw Set, Adjusts the Idle Circuit.

-WJA

Hello egumpher,

You may be able to go online and download a service manual for your Honda engine. Or you can contact a Certified Honda Dealer in your area and they will be able to obtain one for you.

-WJA

The experts say that your float valve is stuck in the open position allowing fuel to run out of the top of the carb. I had the same problem with a NEW carb

It only takes a small piece of debris to hold that needle valve open. You will need to drain the fuel system, remove the bowl, remove the float and needle assembly and flush the cavity where the needle valve seats. Try that and post back if needed.

check the oil....

THE CAM PULLEY IS BROKE. SAME PROBLEM I HAD. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM OF THIS ENGINE.

Hello bguert,

Try to Google - Electric Start Pressure Washers - and see what comes up. There are a few of them out there. Also Karcher makes a few different models of electric pressure washers.

Hope this helps,
-WJA

Hello Bob,

It still sounds like carburetor problems to me. Even though you did clean the carburetor as you said. We have an article and video on that subject. Here is the link to it.

How to Clean a Four Cycle Engine Carburetor.

While your in there look for worn gaskets or any thing that looks like it needs replacing.

-WJA

you missed link removed the guitar strings(the inside wire of the string) to clean the ports out. maybe ,just maybe....

check cam pulley. under valve cover it is black and has a belt that runs to crankshaft.

Probably Ethanol gas gumming up the carburetor. Try adding Sea Foam to your gas. Run the engine as best you can to get it to draw into the carb then shut it off and let it set. It will disolve the gum given enough time. I had a snow thrower that I had left for a week. Ran and idled perfectly after that.

According to the owners manual the VIN has 3 groups of characters and the third group is the type. Yours would be H5AF.

[QUOTE=wvmaxfishr;72116]I have checked entire motor and can't find a "TYPE NUMBER"--This is a vertical shaft motor on a log splitter---Vin # is GJAEA 4300643 H5AF--How can I determine the Type motor?"

[QUOTE=gerryrigger;70280]How challenging is it to replace the coil assembly on my honda gcv160 engine? It is used on a lawn mowe."

Very easy. On a scale of 1 (no effort) to 10 (tough) it's a 2. Just did it today along with quite a few other replacements (carb, gas tank, starter pulley, etc.) on a GVC160 that caught on fire. The key is to use the shadow (clean spots) beneath the mounting bolt heads to position it corrrectly before you finally tigthen it down. Then turn the flywheel to make sure the flywheel and coil aren't in contact.

Good luck.

A correction. I had a used coil from another gcv160 which had marks from the mounting bolts from the previous installation. Your new coil won't have them, so measure the gap between the flywheel and the coil before your remove your old coil and use the measurement to position the new coil. Then turn the flywheel to make sure the flywheel and coil aren't in contact.

cam pulley under valve cover. the one I have was broken. only one pin with o-ring holds it in place. have to remove engine to get to pin. google how to time engine after replacing cam pully. there is a belt that goes around crankshaft.

what is the application? equipment run by motor?

Buy a new motor

Your carb is intentionally set very LEAN to meet current EPA emission standards. You can try to bore out the main jet with a torch cleaning kit, so it will pass more fuel. Be careful doing so, you do NOT want it to pass TOO MUCH.

I would take off the gas filter and put a new one on

The carb float is made of plastic, and the needle and seat fits poorly as well. The stable and Star-tron will distort the float over time. Try pulling the float out, drop it in either water or gas, to check for a hole in the float. Also, remove the needle valve, blow through hole with air pressure.
If that heals it, try to empty the carb of fuel after using, and drain the tank if to be unused for more than a month. Good luck.

Try maintaining it Aethiesticaly

Hi Wow, you are having a nightmare with this. At the risk of giving you the wrong part no. I may just do some research on that engine model for now. I hope you know the part numbers of the two bad cranks you received. Honda engines are expensive as I know, and if a crank can fix one, it is worth it. What is wrong with the original crank from the engine?
These guys are good. I have bought Honda parts for engines from them. Contact them.

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look it up from the vin number on jacks small engines

Did you ever find this part?

[QUOTE=1784289;117732]Hello,

I need some help getting the correct crankshaft for my lawnmower. I have already had two crankshafts delivered to me with both of them being incorrect. The engine model, serial and type numbers are listed below:

GJAEA-4383873 Type MD9* (See Attached Picture)



I have tried the following part numbers but to no avail:

06131-Z8D-W50: Dimensions for this crankshaft were good but the diameter of the rod journal was to large
06131-Z8B-W00: Rod Journal was the correct size but the lower portion of the crankshaft that the blade attaches to was the wrong diameter and did not have the right key ways cut into it.

Please see the picture below for the crankshaft that came out of my engine:



The Model and Serial Number of the Lawn Mower it was installed on is as follows:

Model Number: HRR2163VXA
Serial Number: MZCG-7303526

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks"