This is a genuine Makita replacement part, it is sold individually. Its purpose is to drive the 227505-7 Main Gear.
This part is replaced by sliding it on the fan end armature shaft, then securing it to the shaft with the 252186-8 nut.
Once you have the Gear Housing apart, this is a good time to make sure the Main Gear has no wear, also check the bearings to make sure they are in good working order.
This Drive Gear will fit the following 21 machines.
Confirm this part works with your model, and view the detailed model diagrams and repair help we have to offer.
First determine the problem. Problem: grinder is slipping under load; losing power. Facts: motor works perfectly. Suspected area of concern: gearbox. Remove both parts of gearbox. Each section is perpendicular to one another, and each is held in place by four screws. One set of screws are machine screws, the other set plastic screws. Do not mix these up. Upon removing gear box from motor housing, inspect drive gear and driven gear. In my case, both were clearly stripped. Due to the fact I dropped my grinder I became worried that I not only damaged the gears, but any bearings in the gearbox. At this point, one could either replace the entire gearbox assembly, or rebuild the existing one. The gearbox assembly was no longer available, so my options were limited. I opted to rebuild the gearbox. High temperature grease covers the inside of the gearbox, and because my gears stripped, the grease has specks of metal from the gears suspended in it. I removed everything from the gearbox until I had just the cast aluminum/magnesium case. I cleaned ALL the old contaminated grease out with a degreasing agent (nothing special, just let it sit for a little while in a mixture of Dawn dish soap and water). Now to replace the gears and bearings. The beveled drive gear is easy to replace. simply remove the nut on the end of the shaft, and remove the old gear. The driven gear is a bit more complicated. There are two bearings on the driven side that needed to be removed. The first was small, yet difficult to remove. It was located near the top where it seats into the housing. There is a delicate snap ring underneath it, making things exceedingly difficult to remove it without damaging other parts. Using a jaw puller, remove the small bearing from the shaft, if necessary, damaging the snap ring in the process. It is nearly impossible to get the jaws of a jaw puller behind this bearing without being obstructed by this pesky snap ring. Upon removing the bearing, remove the snap ring if it is still on the shaft. This snap ring keeps the driven gear in place. At this point the driven gear will simply slide off. It is on a keyed shaft, with a woodruff key locking it to the shaft. Set both the woodruff key and the driven gear aside. At this point, one can simply replace both the gears, reassemble in reverse order, grease the gearbox, and call it done. I however feared I damaged one or more of the bearings. At this point I pressed the shaft out of the gearbox using a 20 ton shop press. Once the shaft was out, The main bearing became accessible. It is held in place with an internal snap ring. Remove the snap ring and pull out the bearing. Be careful however, there is a washer that goes underneath the bearing between it and the housing. Replace the bearing with a new one, assemble in reverse order, replace any other damaged parts as necessary. When greasing the gearbox for reassembly I chose to use Stihl brand gearbox grease. The gearbox in this angle grinder reaches rpm's, temperatures, and other variables similar to those found in gearboxes on Stihl outdoor power equipment that utilize this type of grease. Grease the gearbox liberally, taking extra care to grease the drive and driven gears. Do not over fill the gearbox with grease. Tighten down each set of screws. The grinder is now reassembled. turn the driveshaft by hand. Feel for any binding, sticking, or other conditions which might hamper proper functioning. If all checks out, plug in the angle grinder, and get to work!
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Loaned out my grinder and it was returned with a stripped gear.
1. Made sure grinder was unplugged, cord was rolled up and zip tied.
2. Place grinder gently in bench vice.
3. Removed four black screws holding on drive head.
4. Gripped old gear very tightly with pliers and removed nut holding gear.
5. Pulled old gear off.
6. Put new gear on.
7. Put Blue Loctite on threads and reinstalled nut.
8. Put drive head on and four black screws back in.
9. Untied cord, plugged in and started grinder to make sure everything was functional.
For the most part, it was as simple as that!
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Gears were worn
Sam - July 9, 2017
👍 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Tool Type
Grinder
Difficulty
Easy
Time
15-30 minutes
Tools Used
Screwdriver, Bearing splitter, vice, snap ring pliersspreader
Followed two You Tube Directions from ereplacements. Well done! Here are the links to them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mp1RnUNaQ4c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noTt1LMKPao
1. Removed grinding disc and guard
2. Removed case screws on bevel gear cover, and gear case to body
3. Removed bevel shaft from housing, clamped in vice , removed bearing and circlip
Installed new gear , replace circlip and bearing.
4. Clamp armature gear in vise , remove nut and gear. Install new gear and nut . Tighten snuggly
5. Clean gear housing of old grease and debris, pack with grease re-assemble shaft in housing, more grease.
6. Re-assemble install cover and gear housing to body , re assemble guard and disc
7. Test
1. removed angle drive cap (4 phillips #2)
2. removed drive gear (pliers and 10 mm)
3. removed snap ring
4.removed bearing
5. clean away old grease with metal grindings.
6. new grease and reassemble.
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