Jig Saw: Excessive Sparks From the Motor
If you notice excessive sparks coming from the motor, safely inspect the following parts for damage: the carbon brushes, armature, field, and switch. Now that you know the part that is to blame, read on for our repair advice and tips on fixing your jig saw yourself. Always check your owner's manual for information specific to your model.
Clean the armature with electrical contact cleaner only and wipe clean. Inspect the armature for burn marks indicating sparking. If you notice any burn marks, it may need to be replaced. You can double check the armature to verify its condition.
There are three tests to use when checking an armature. The first is a continuity test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. Attach one end of the ohmmeter to the shaft for ground and the other to the...
Clean the armature with electrical contact cleaner only and wipe clean. Inspect the armature for burn marks indicating sparking. If you notice any burn marks, it may need to be replaced. You can double check the armature to verify its condition.
There are three tests to use when checking an armature. The first is a continuity test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. Attach one end of the ohmmeter to the shaft for ground and the other to the bar on the commutator. Move the probe to each bar on the commutator, checking all the bars. If the ohmmeter shows a reading on one of the bars, this will indicate a short and a bad armature.
The second test is a bar-to-bar test, to determine the resistance. Attach one probe to a bar on the commutator and the other probe on the bar right beside it. There will be a specific reading for this, depending on the design of the armature. But, most importantly, there should not be a large fluctuation here between the values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, this will indicate there is a broken, or burned out, wire in the coil. If the resistance drops, then there is a short. Move around the commutator, checking each bar.
The third, and final test is the 180-degree test. Attach the two ends of the ohmmeter on the commutator bars, directly across from each other. There will be a specific set of readings for this, depending on the design of your unit. Once again, what is important is that there is not a large fluctuation in values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, that would indicate a broken, or burnt, wire. If the resistance drops, that would indicate there is a short. Continue this test on all the bars. If an armature fails any of these tests, it is recommended that you replace it.
Slide a new armature into the field. Once installed, ensure everything is secured back in the case. Reinstall the brushes and then reassemble the case back together. Reinstall the base.
Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner only, and wipe clean. Inspect for burn marks, indicating a sparking field. If you notice any burn marks, replace the field as the burn marks indicate it's shorting out. You can perform one simple test to verify if the field is good or bad by...
Clean the field with electrical contact cleaner only, and wipe clean. Inspect for burn marks, indicating a sparking field. If you notice any burn marks, replace the field as the burn marks indicate it's shorting out. You can perform one simple test to verify if the field is good or bad by using a multimeter to check the field for continuity, seeing if it has shortened. Set the multimeter to the ohmmeter and place a lead on each end of the field. If the reading is infinity, the field is bad and requires replacement. Attach the wires to the new field and slide the armature in the field and then place the motor in the case, ensuring it is secured. Install the brushes. Reassemble the case back together and attach the base.