After taking the bowl off of the carberator it became clear that a new carberator was going to be needed. I just had to remove the fuel tank and control panel for access to the carberator. Swap in new carberator and reassemble. Set idle speed and my snowblower is good to go at a fraction of what a repair shop would have charged.
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The ignition coilGÇÖs wire to the spark plug became so corroded at the spark plug it separated.
The ignition coil needed to be replaced. The following removal gave access to the coil for replacement.
1. Remove the top muffler cover, carburetor covering, and engine cover with engine rope starter which exposes the ignition coil.
Since the removal of the carburetor cover releases the pressure held onto the carburetor, thu
... Read mores possibly cause a carburetor gasket to leak I also slid the carburetor off and replaced the three gaskets in place between the engine head, carburetor, linkage bracket and air inlet. It is also required to remove the snow exit shoot to be able to access the two bolts that hold on the top engine cover.
2. Check gap of existing coil to flywheel magnet before detaching the coil. The coil detached with just one wire disconnected and two mounting bolts removed.
3. Cleaned the magnets on the flywheel.
4. Install the new coil and gapped it to approximately 20 thousands with a feeler gauge.
5. Install remaining removed items in reverse order. Test run.
The Yard Man never seemed to work quite right since the day I bought it but over the course of the winter it had gotten worse and after Googling, I figured it was a bad carb. I was right.
The hardest part was getting at it, but I found two good YouTube videos. One on taking the carb off (that took about two hours). And one o
... Read moren putting things back together.
I cleaned the Engine, changed the Oil, replaced the Spark Plug replaced the coil assembly and replaced the Carb that was in bad shape. It went pretty smooth. You just have to lay out your parts and take your time.
1. Remove engine control dials and buttons.
2. Remove unit drive belt cover (necessary for access of 1heat panel bolt.
3. Remove 2 screws from electric starter control (necessary for panel removal).
4. Remove all bolts for muffler heat panel and remove panel.
5. Loosen and remove 2 carburetor acorn nuts and careful
... Read morely remove panel being mindful of
ignition control wires, choke control linkage and bracket, crankcase recirculating hose
and carb primer hose.
6. With panel removed, fuel can be drained from tank using upper bolt on on carb drain
bowl or disconnecting fuel tank feed line.
7. Carefully remove carburetor being mindful of throttle and governor spring linkage and
gasket location.
8. Disassemble carb fuel bowl, float/valve assembly and immerse carb in cleaner for an
overnight soak.
9. Remove carb from cleaner, rinse and inspect. If engine was surging, the most likely
cause is a clogged jet/flow manifold located in the central column of the bowl area.
Compressed air will be necessary for this cleaning process.
10. After confirmation of a clear jet, reassemble carb and re- install in reverse order.
Pinch off fuel line, disconnect spark plug wire, remove heat shields, and belt covers, disconnect fuel line and primer tube. Removed old carburetor, and gaskets. Replaced with new parts. Replaced covers etc. Fresh fuel and test. Works perfect.
Tiller
- MTD Tiller Model 21A-39M5897 (21A39M5897, 21A 39M5897) Parts
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