O-rings are designed to contain thousands of pounds of pressure by creating a seal between two or more parts. O-ring measurements are defined by the inside diameter and the thickness. There are many causes for O-Ring failure, such as pressure, friction, temperature or chemicals. The most common are: • <u>Extrusion and Nibbling</u> - O-ring has ragged, tattered edges. These are commonly caused by pressure spikes which shear off tiny "bites" from the o-ring, or caused by clearance gaps. • <u>Abrasion</u> - One or both sides of the o-ring appear rough and slightly flattened. Commonly caused by a contact surface that is too rough, contains grit or is too smooth to allow lubrication. • <u>Over Compression </u> - O-ring is flattened on both sides and may have a "ring" split along its length. Commonly caused by excessive pressure or heat. • <u>Heat Hardening</u> - O-ring has a pitted or cracked surface, and often is flattened on both sides. Caused by temperature exceeding o-ring capacity. • <u>Weather/Ozone Cracking</u> - O-ring is covered in small surface cracks. Caused by exposure to ozone, UV rays and air pollution. Excessive seal stretching causes similar cracking.
Replaced the power cord and the work light. Replaced the pin that holds the saw in the closed position. Also replaced a few other misc parts. The light, power cord and pin were the biggest reasons I needed to repair just due to safety and ease of use. The pin was the hardest part to replace because I had to remove the large pivot pin
... Read morethat the entire saw hinges on by tapping it out with a mallet and a 1/2\" socket extension. The spring that holds the saw in the up position comes out when the hinge pin is removed making it extremely difficult to put everything back together. I realized after the fact that there are holes just below the spring that you can insert a screw driver or Allen wrench or similar object which holds the spring in the closed position. I still haven\'t figured out if there is an easier way to replace the spring itself since you obviously can\'t hold it in the closed position if you are trying to replace it, but my spring is fine and I don\'t have to worry about that now. There were no websites or videos that I could find to show how this is done, but I figured it out. Would have been easier if there was something that explained the holes for holding the spring before I took it all apart and the spring ejected the saw arm.
Install o ring on stopper pin then lightly lubricate with petroleum jelly. Then insert pin into housing with threaded end protruding from the left side of the housing. After insertion screw on knob and hand tighten. Test by lowering saw to lowest position and pushing the knob inward and releasing the saw handle. The saw should remain i
... Read moren the lowered position. Next push down on the saw handle while pulling the knob. Once the knob is moved to the outward position the saw should tilt to the up position without any resistance. If so the project is complete.
1- Removed saw blade 2- Removed 4 screws mounting motor to blade housing 4- Removed screws from pistil grip housing 3- Removed old wire 4- striped white and black wire and crimped new terminals to fit switch connections 5- Assembled parts in reverse from steps 3 to 1. Before fastening blade guard I replaced knob and o-ring to hold down fo
... Read morer transport. Leaf spring for detent is one p2 screw to replace. My 20 year old miter saw is like new again.
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