Bearing-Ball 150-1032

Repair was simple. Remove two air lines from Compresor heads and unloader housing. Loosen jam nut on unloader valve, unscrew unloader valve, watch for brass pin it will fall out if not careful. Remove four bolts that hold unloader assem. housing to compressor. Using screw driver and a ladyfoot bar carefully pry housing from compressor. I ... Read more t will be very tight do not pry one dircetion or the other to far, crank bearing is held in place within housing. The housing is the outer bearing support surface. Once housing is off remove unloader assem. from crankshaft. Remove very small cotter pin at back of unloader assem. With that out of the way use a small gear/bearing puller to remove main shaft bearing from crankshaft. Note that old bearing has a glue /locktite on outer surface.
Clean gasket surface at this time. Also clean the unloader assem. and housing to remove any metal filings and or dirt. Now is a good time to drain the oil and replace with new when everytihng is back together.
Install new bearing by way of correct bushing/ sleeve of correct diameter ( I used a 3/4 inch drive 1 1/4 socket) of inside of bearing. Warm bearing with heat gun to allow for metal to expand you may not think this is enough heat but it will make for an easy install. Place bearing on crank shaft, place block of wood behind crank area in which the bearing will be. Using the correct dia. sleeve, drive new bearing on to crank tapping carefully, do not twist bearing on shaft it will be impossible to get on, drive it straight. Make sure bearing is fully seated at flange on crank.
Reverse the removal process to assemble. Be careful when placing the unloader housing back on, the bearing does fit inside the housing , it too needs to be driven on straight.
Adjustment of the unloader valve, I found, was trial and error. Finally made adjustment with compressor running to get the valve to stay closed.