On-off Switch 994534

took switch off of the lathe and tested it. One side was dead
order switch and put it on the lathe.
Because I took the old switch off it only took a few minutes to put the new one on.
Used a drill gun to make it easier.
total time 15 minutes

Disconnect
Remove access cover
Disconnect belt drive motor using Alan key
Remove motor switch assembly
Disconnect switch and remove
Install new switch
Reverse process to reassemble

I removed one side panel which allowed me to access the switch case. Once all the wires were disconnected, I was able to pop the switch out of the frame. The new switch popped right back in. Reconnected the wires and back in business. To replace the switch, it took about 15 minutes. The rest of the time was spent cleaning the inside of the table saw.
Side note: The original switch contacts were welded closed, not allowing the saw to stop. I was able to redress the contacts and put the switch back together. I swapped out the new for the old and have been using it ever since. The new switch is saved as a spare.

Jet 1632 Drum Sander

Removed the cover of the switch box
Removed set screw to conveyor drive
Removed the box from the machine
Made sure to rewire correctly by finding a diagram on YouTube
Plugged in to make sure wired correctly before reinstalling the box on the machine
Put cover on box
Installed box back on machine
Put set screw back in the conveyor drive shaft
All worked great!

Executive summary: Disconnect the power cord. Remove the cover plate on the bottom of the control housing by removing four phillips head machine screws. Let the circuit board drop. Depress the spring tabs on the ends of the old switch and push it out through the upper face of the control panel. Disconnect the spade connectors from the old switch and connect the wires to the new one; one at a time so you don't screw up the pin order. Push the new switch into the control panel. Push the control board back itn the control housing, resecure the cover plates.

Epic Version:
This was a technically simple but physically awkward repair to a part that should not normally need replacement.The poor kid who broke the switch was tearfully honest and apologetic and if she hadn't told me what happened I would never have discovered who was responsible, so, yeah, there are still great kids out there.

First, disconnect the power before working on any machine.

To replace the broken switch it is necessary to remove the cover plate on the bottom of the control housing. Unfortunately, the legs and mounting surface of the stamped sheetmetal stand on the model JWDS 1632 drum sander are angled for stability. Without removing the stand I could not get a straight shot at two of the screws that secured the cover plate. So I angled the screwdriver. The screws came out easily enough, but I chowdered the heads in the process.

Once the cover plate is off, the circuit board can be pulled out of the way so you can reach up underneath the control panel with your favorite spudger to release the spring tabs that secure the switch. I have a couple of old butter knives ground and bent into various shapes for this purpose.

I found that the best approach was to wiggle the switch housing back and forth, pushing alternately on each end of the housing as I released the spring tabs a bit at a time on each end. Eventually the switch comes free and you can pull it up out of the housing. Allow the circuit board to come up with it and there is just enough slack in the wires to remove them from the old switch and replace them on the new one, one at a time.

Push the new switch back into the face of the control panel. It will sort of click-click-click, and then snap into place. Push the circuit board back into the housing and then reinstall the coverplate, securing it with the screws. Take care to NOT cross thread the screws, which I did because of the way the stand interfered with the shaft of the screwdriver and because I was working over my head while crawling around under the machine, and because I was too lazy to just take the machine off of it's stand in the first place.

Test the machine to make sure the new switch works. Then, sulk for a few days because you cross threaded the screws and chowdered their heads up and made a carefully maintained machine look like it was chewed on by a dull beaver. Go to the local hardware store and pick up four (M6 I think, but you better check) socket head screws and washers. Remove the chowdered up old screws, chase the threads with a tap, and replace them with the socket heads because you can remove and install them with a BALL DRIVER next time. Hopefully there will not be a next time.

Opened up control box . Disconnected it from driveshaft and relocated box on workbenches. Removed damaged parts and burned wires replaced with new and reinstalled.

Removed broken switch.
Installed replacement.
Easy.. didn't even need to stay at a Holiday Inn!

I had to disassemble the housing for the switch. That included decoupling the motor

It took two screws, and then just on & off with 4 wire clips then put the new switch back in. I did have to move a collar from the old switch to the new one. This was the most difficult part of the job.

Exactly correct part-- very easy!

Lots of work, old switch not available! Used a Jet replacement, four leads, hole in switch plate had to make larger