Filter

1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Loosen intake lifter and remove push rod.
3. Replace with new intake push rod.
3. Loosen exhaust lifter and remove push rod.
4. Install new exhaust push rod.
5. Install new valve cover gasket.
6. Install valve cover.

I rebuilt the carb and had probs with continued float valve leakage. Disassembled and reassembled 4 times. Quit for the day. Then discovered a brand new complete carburetor ($34) cost less than the rebuild kit and parts. Ordered and installed easiky. All is good now. Learned a lesson.

Replaced the coil, and replaced the fuel shutoff, works great

1 Remove engine from pressure washer
2 Disassemble crankcase
3 Remove old governor assembly
4 Installed new governor assembly
5 Assemble crankcase with new gasket
6 Install new governor spring at carburetor
7 Replace air filter element
8 Reinstall engine on pressure washer
9 Fill crankcase with oil
10 Run about 10 minutes
11 Drain oil and refill ( this removes impurities that may have remained from opening engine)

Removed the air filter and assembly, replaced the new assembly and primer bulb along with new air filter assembly gasket. Installed the new air filter, primed the carburetor bulb three times and the mower started right up.

Removed the old filters and replaced with the new.

1. Drained the fuel.
2. Took out the float bowl bolt.
3. Put the washer on and replaced.
4. Removed the gas tank and the fuel lines.
5. Cut the fuel lines to the proper sizes.
6. Installed the fuel filter and the fuel line clamps.
7. Installed the fuel line to the carb and then to the fuel tank.

Tripped head off, inspected all parts, cleaned carburetor bowl while I had it off the engine.
I checked to make sure head and cylinder surface wasn't warped, de-carboned piston top and head. Re-assembled.
This type of repair is pretty straight forward.
If your new to this, keep nuts and bolts organized, and it goes easy!!

1. Disconnect spark plug wire.
2. Drain fuel from tank.
3. Remove 2 screws that secure finger guard .
4. Remove 3 bolts located on top that secure tank to engine and 1 bolt under the the tank.
5. With pliers, move hose clamps to center of fuel line. Remove fuel line.
6. Install new fuel line to Carb first and move clamp into position.
7. Install new fuel to new tank and move clamp into position. Place new tank on top of engine and install 3 bolts, do not tighten them down. Replace bolt and spacer under tank to engine,do not tighten.
8. Check position and fit, tighten down.
9. Replace finger guard making sure the clip is in place located on the back side of engine. Replace 2 screws and tighten.
10. Add a little fuel and check for leaks.
11. Connect plug wire, prime and start.

I was able to match model #, except for the last two digits. (assumed 99 is snow blower and 02 is rototiller). Working on the engine only, I was pretty sure the engine parts would cross-reference.
Luckily the engine had always been stored in the garage. My mission was just a thorough check out, carb cleanout, oil change, throttle lube and gas line replacement. Everything went well and the engine fired up nearly on the first pull. It's running strong and I've already put about two hours on it. My only issue was the fuel bowl gasket was slightly oversized. I had to cut about 1/4" out of it and use gasket seal. This repair saved me $1200.00, the cost of a new rototiller.