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Troy-Bilt 020293-0 2,550 PSI Pressure Washer

 Troy-Bilt 020293-0 2,550 PSI Pressure Washer Parts

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 Fig # Img Part Name Availability Price
A1
Assy, Base
Part #: 201560GS
In stock
1 available
 $142.44
Add To Cart
A2
Handle
Part #: 199110BVGS
In stock
1 available
 $51.53
Add To Cart
A3Kit, Billboard W/Clips & Decals
Part #: 201371GS
In stock
1 available
 $43.43
Add To Cart
A3Kit-Retainer Clips
Part #: 195964GS
In stock
2 available
 $2.74
Add To Cart
A4Hose
Part #: 196006GS
In stock
5 available
 $39.27
Add To Cart
A5Kit, Gun Holder
Part #: 201661GS
Ships in 4 - 8 business days
 $7.13
Add To Cart
A6Key
Part #: 23139GS
In stock
2 available
 $3.99
Add To Cart
A7Assy, Pump
Part #: 207365GS
In stock
6 available
 $163.42
Add To Cart
A8Thermo Relief
Part #: 208673GS
In stock
3 available
 $10.09
Add To Cart
A9Kit, Wheel Obsolete - Limited Quantity
Part #: 202483GS
In stock
1 available
 $28.84
Add To Cart
A10Kit, Handle Fastening
Part #: B2203GS
In stock
1 available
 $3.99
Add To Cart
A11Hubcap
Part #: 200519GS
In stock
2 available
 $11.51
Add To Cart
A12Retaining Ring Obsolete - Not Available
Part #: 703976
Discontinued
N/A
A13Kit, Pump Mounting Hardware
Part #: 192645GS
In stock
3 available
 $7.01
Add To Cart
A14Kit, Spray Tips
Part #: 201324GS
In stock
2 available
 $13.91
Add To Cart
Fig #ImgPart NameAvailabilityPrice
A14Nozzle, Soap
Part #: 198841GS
In stock
3 available
 $7.07
Add To Cart
A14Nozzle, Qc, Red
Part #: 195983AEGS
In stock
4 available
 $7.07
Add To Cart
A14Nozzle, Qc, Green
Part #: 195983QGS
In stock
4 available
 $7.07
Add To Cart
A15Gun
Part #: 319853GS
In stock
4 available
 $33.69
Add To Cart
A16Assy, Extension
Part #: 207784GS
In stock
7 available
 $32.43
Add To Cart
A17Kit, Vibe Mount
Part #: 192310GS
In stock
6 available
 $6.38
Add To Cart
A
Manual, Operator'S Obsolete - Not Available
Part #: 206208GS
Discontinued
N/A
A
Kit,Warning Tag
Part #: 194256GS
Ships in 4 - 8 business days
 $4.73
Add To Cart
A
Axle
Part #: 201313GS
Backorder:
No ETA.
 $7.35
Add To Cart
ABottle, Oil
Part #: 100005
In stock
13 available
 $3.31
Add To Cart
AGrommet
Part #: 30809GS
In stock
7 available
 $2.45
Add To Cart
A
Goggles-Safety
Part #: 87815GS
Ships in 4 - 8 business days
 $9.12
Add To Cart
AORD-D Gasoline Additive Obsolete - Not Available
Part #: 5041K
Discontinued
N/A
AO Ring Kit
Part #: 705001
In stock
10 available
 $12.77
Add To Cart
APump Saver Kit - 4oz Obsolete - Not Available
Part #: 6039
Discontinued
N/A
Fig #ImgPart NameAvailabilityPrice

Enter your engine's type number in this search field to show the parts that match your engine.

Your engine's type number is the second part of the model number stamped on your Briggs & Stratton engine (see picture).


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Discussion
Discussion for the Troy-Bilt 020293-0 2,550 PSI Pressure Washer

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I'm trying to trouble shoot this pw. It started losing pressure, the engine changed tone, i was up on a ladder, looked at it, was blowing white smoke out of the exhaust. I ran to it, shut it down, oil was everywhere. This morning copious quantities of oil under the machine.


Where to start?
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

Hi 1393128 I am sorry about the failure. They always seem to occur when we are well underway in our work...trying to get done and ON to more likable things; am I right? Sometimes, overfilling the engine with oil causes white smoke. Other times, if the carburetor has malfunctioned and gas has gotten into the crankcase oil, you might notice some white smoke. You say oil was everywhere. First, check the oil level and condition of the oil on the dipstick (if ANY is left). SMELL IT. Does it smell like gas? Next, clean up the engine and oil mess.. Afterwards see if you can see if any is leaking out of the engine on its own while the motor is off. Do NOT Try to run the engine again until this problem is resolved. Check the conditon of the AIR FILTER and the muffler also. One or both could be full of oil.
This may be something you can fix, after it has been determined what caused the malfunction to begin with.
Please let us know if this is an OHV (overhead valve) engine or an L-head engine..(no valve cover). You may even have an OHC (Overhead Cam) engine. Diagrams I checked do not designate which engine you have.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

thank you very much. I will do tomorrow am. Off to the B ball game. I keep it well oiled, and not overfilled. It had been running fine, i'd used it for several hours, and had refilled it with gas and checked the oil(but not added any) not long before this incident. Since i wear hearing protection, i did not notice a change in the sound, but first loss of power at the tip. Oil was everywhere this morning. I have not taken anything apart yet, but it is not frozen. Next comes compression test, and i will see what the valve arrangement is.

Again, thanks.

deanaoxo
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

HI Deanaoxo You are welcome. It is quite possible ALL is not lost and you will be able to fix the problem with just a little mechanical knowledge and aptitude. Let me know what you find. I will be here!
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

Okay, getting into it. Engine still turns over. Oil level is low and dirty. Oil is everywhere, and the air filter is soaked. The spark plug is black. The carburetor throat entrance has a puddle of oil in the throat. There is compression, but i do not have a compression tester to say how much.

Next step?
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

Hi deanaoxo What make and type of engine is it..Tecumseh, Honda, Briggs.... Chonda (Chinese Honda)...OHV, L- Head, OHC?..There is the possibility of a blown head gasket...and that is NOT hard to fix. ID the make and type for me please so I know what engine we are dealing with. Possibly it has one of those Chinese engines also. No problem, they clone them after the Honda motors.
The fact that the carb intake AND the filter are oil soaked tells me that something went amiss somewhere in the valve train quite possibly too. A pushrod or lifter may have failed. If you get a stuck valve, however, the engine of course won't run. Many intake valves also incorporate a valve stem seal to keep the oil where it belongs. Exhaust valves get too hot to put seals on them unless they are metal seals. So, I am thinking it is a valve train and/or head gasket issue.
To really enable me to help you, I need 1. Engine manufacturer 2. Engine Model no. (not the machine)
3. Type of engine it has.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

I'm an idiot, sorry.

1. Engine manufacturer Briggs and Straton

2. Engine Model no. 126T02 0131E1 060929FA

3. Type of engine it link removed
link removed?

fbid=10152766105115488&set=a.10152766104725488.1073741848.711365487&type=1&theater" />

I hope the pictures display.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

Engine model # 020293 rev 00 sorry.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo Thanks for the info. Good job. We are not allowed to post attachments on here and that makes my job (no, I don't get paid) much harder than it needs to be helping folks. Pictures are great. We used to be allowed to send PM (personal messages) among us, but they seemed to have stopped allowing that too. That is why there is NOT an overabundance of helpful mechanics on here for small engines.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanoxo That 020293 is the Troy Bilt model no. for the machine, but that is OK...That is listed at the bottom left of this thread also. The Briggs engine model is my main interest right now.
Facebook would not let me look at the picture(s) but engine diagrams will work just as well for this. Thanks.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo You are going to need to clean it up some as I stated and start removing the engine covers. We are going to remove the cylinder head so I can get an idea of the head gasket and valves' condition. By the way, I can tell from the complete model no. and code no. you provided that this engine is 8 1/2 years old and was manufactured on 9/29/06. Have you ever worked on one of these engines before?

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/briggs-and-stratton-126t020131e1-engine-parts-c-16758_17347_17498_228177.html
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo If you are going to undertake this project, please heed this serious advice. TAKE PICTURES of everything in detail as you work and disassemble, so you will KNOW how it goes back together. I am serious about this...it will save YOU and I a lot of headaches. Get to learn the diagrams of your engine model (especially the ENGINE itself) when you are sitting around not doing much (that will come in VERY handy). We are at a disadvantage on here, but we CAN share links to webpages. Let me know how things are coming...there is some work to do.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

ShotOut, i can't thank you enough. I'm in hog town, home of the gator, and on fb, sorry you can't see them, they are set to public and should be viewable by anyone.

I don't have any sitting around doing nothing going any more, passed that. Strange how as we get older, there is more to do.

I have not taken one of these engines apart, but am not worried. It's been a very long time, but i have re-built engines from crank to carb before.

Meanwhile, i'm not sure of the rules here, so don't want to break any, but i'm super easy to find on line on fb

Tomorrow i'll dig in, had to build a lumber rack today, but i'll look around, figure out if i still have a flickr account, etc.

Again, thanks for the help, thanks for the parts list, i'll be sure to order from these folks if that helps everyone, as this is a valuable resource, but should be brought into the 21st century with modern web tools, file sharing, etc.

dean jordan
gainesville
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

Okay, here we go: link removed , link removed head , link removed head head gasket , link removed

may the force be with me on this upload and display. fingers crossed.
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

Whoopie! I'm a friend of Shotout and we sometimes bounce idea's back and forth. AND I'm a Florida Gator Fan currently living in Charlotte NC. I'm looking forward to what McElwaine is going to do to turn this Gator Football team around. If the reading I'm getting is correct that this is going to be an all new aggressive style program....GO GATORS! Anything else isn't worth watching.
Since the motor for a pressure washer operates at a high speed and pressure which jumps from high rev to low rev quickly. One thing for sure, once we sort out what's wrong and get it back together, CHECK YOUR GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY. I have every suspicion that though this machine is designed for high speed it can over rev.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

How would i check that roperdoug? I have ordered a head gasket, new filter and new spark plug, as i really need to get back to pressure washing.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

ps, sorry, i started selling cokes at Florid Field in 5th grade so i could see the Gators play.
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

The up loads worked but I think Shotout and I will need a shot of the piston head at TDC and at the bottom of the cycle with lighting facing the head so we can see the piston head and cylinder wall. A thought came to mind. Do you have a torque wrench? You need it to put it back together. And you'll need the spec. sheet to get the correct torque and gap info.
link removed Specifications Chart - Briggs & Stratton Engines Ebook Manual Download - Ebook, Product Manual, Owners Guide
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo I saw the photos. Very good. I do NOT see a bad breach in the head gasket. Do you? What I do see is maybe some exhaust leaking past the gasket. The block is discolored there as is the head gasket. Note: Briggs and Stratton engines do not take WELL at all to being run with dirty oil. Ultimately, if it is not changed; some type of engine failure will eventually result. They are really temperamental this way. This time of link removed link removed straight SAE 30 HD oil in all your Briggs powered equipment. If you choose to run synthetic; that is fine 10W-30 will be perfect. CLEAN OIL is the key to avoiding failures like this...although I do not know how many hours are on the engine. I presume your governor set up for the carburetor should be OK if it has never been tampered with. It is not hard to adjust if needed. Will you turn the engine OVER and observe the valve movement in the block? Very Important. They both should move upward at the same height. And of course their seating position on the valve seats is quite critical as well. Look closely. May have to clean some oil and carbon off of them first. You will notice which valve is which relative to the intake and exhaust ports as you know. It will also be beneficial to remove the little valve cover plate on the side of the block to observe valve movement. It is usually on the exhaust side of the engine held in place with a couple small hex head screws.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo I also detect a very bad carbon RIDGE build up at the top edge of the cylinder. That needs to be removed. Was old gas ever left in the fuel tank of this machine? That can create a whole set of problems link removed sticking valves and bad valve guides.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

Thanks all. I ordered a new head gasket, air filter, spark plug. I plan on cleaning everything tomorrow after my VA visit. First i'll take photos at TDC, and post. Then clean. Valve movement appeared good, i saw nothing abnormal at all, and no, i could not see where the head gasket may of leaked. The air filter was very oil soaked. There was oil in the throat of the carb. I have a torque wrench coming, my one went the way of all tools you lend. Any other suggestions? Naturally, i'm hopeful someone will supply me with the proper torque setting for the cylinder head bolts. I was supposed to pw all week, man, not good, but hey, i'm one person. The weather is insane good right now, so i've been busy cleaning up my cluttered work space. Thanks all.
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

You'd spent more time doing a quick fix which could turn disastrous later on. If you need to get the pressure washing done, rent a pressure washer and let Shotout help you get yours right.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanoxo ....Here is what I think may have happened. ...You left some fuel in the machine at some point. The rubber tipped needle valve in the carburetor controls (lets gas in and shuts gas off) coming INTO the caburetor. Old gas corrodes carburetors with its ethanol. Debris or ethanol contaminated the carb, causing the needle valve to stick open...gas kept running and running thru the carb unchecked..until it flooded...and then gas started entering the engine...where it drained down into the crankcase mixing with the oil. When you started it up and RAN the thing with gas in the oil...the gas vapors PRESSURIZED the crankcase, and starting blowing a heavy oil mist out the breather tube that goes from the crankcase into the air cleaner.box. That is WHY everything is black and soaked with oil. That breather tube needs to be cleaned out also. It connects underneath on the black plastic air filter housing So, the carb ingested this oil filled air thru its air fliter...SOAKING IT and the carb with oil..then this mess went into the combusion chamber and the engine started burning it...THUS THE WHITE SMOKE>...You need to remove and clean or repair the carburetor.You also need to install a 5 dollar inline1/4" gas shut off valve.and...(as important)...A FUEL FILTER. They BOTH should be on a machine that you care about.That is what I THINK happened if the valves aren't messed up.
Reinstalling the cylinder head gasket and the head on this is a piece of link removed to cleaning up the breather tube, air induction system, filter housing, filter, and removing and cleaning the carburetor. THE HEAD is the easy part of this fix.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

While i do not disagree with your analysis ShotOut, i must say that this seems odd, considering that i had probably run about 2 gallons of gas through the machine in the past week. When this happened, i'd already been using the machine that day for 2 fuel tank fills.

I'd also topped off the oil once. Additional information though. That day, i did notice that it was not making as much power and my friend said the engine sounded off.

I will clean everything as you suggest, instal the filter and the shut off(all machines should have this like a motorcycle), change the oil(straight 30 weight, right?)and press on. I'll check back here later for further instructions.

It doesn't look like my last post posted, so i'll try to add the pictures now: link removed head tdc, link removed, link removed I had to change image hosting places, hope this works. Cylinder before cleaning, valves extended, three different times. Piston TDC, Valve extended, both intake and exhaust.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo Without a proper fuel filter, all it takes is a small piece of debris to lodge between the needle valve and it's seat...keeping fuel pouring into the carburetor. Yes, it is a float bowl type..but if the needle doesn't SEAT and seal gas flows unabated. THAT IS WHY I asked you to smell the oil. You could help more by answering my questions when I ask them. NEVER let any engine oil in a small engine go black esp. if it is YOUR machine. You don't let the oil get black in your vehicles, do you? Dirty oil and debris entering the carb or a corrosion build up because of untreated ethanol laced fuel most likely caused this. Always add fuel system stabilizer (Stabil) and fuel system cleaner to your fuel. It doesn't hurt to add upper engine lubricant to the gas either...like Marvel Mystery Oil. I have personally seen this happen on a lawn link removed own! I bet that is the original fuel line.
Clean your fuel supply can, clean the machine's fuel tank, remove and clean the carburetor. A deteriorating FUEL LINE (old, brittle, cracked and disentegrating on the inside) can cause debris to enter the carb. I have seen it happen. A very small piece can cause what happened to yours. INSTALL A NEW Section of fuel line, with an inline filter at the very least!
Do me a favor. Crimp off the fuel line between the tank and carb. If ya haven't removed the carb, take a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/2" socket on it and remove the float bowl. Careful, the bolt that hold the aluminum bowl on is the MAIN JET for the carb, and it also has a small washer on it. LOOK IN the float bowl for water, corrosion and/or sediment and tell me what you find, OK?
You do NOT see the block discoloration between the exhaust valve and the edge of the block? It was on the head gasket too! It should look like it does on the INTAKE VALVE side, clear...not dark.
Oh, and by the way...the pictures are great. Thanks.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo As far as the ENGINE sounding OFF and not MAKING as much power....that is because instead of a nice clean atomized gaseous mixture entering the combustion chamber of the engine; it was receiving a gaseous OILY mixture instead. The carburetor malfunction could have occurred at any time while you ran it. I do not know how LONG gas was entering the crankcase, but it doesn't take MUCH gas to cause the problem. I realize I could be wrong on this but after seeing the mechanical condition of your engine and you have not said it was link removed failure and gas intrusion in the oil is my rational diagnosis.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

Well, now i 'm a member of fat-game. they charged me a dollar, and i can't for the life of me download the ebook.
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

I hate when that happens SIR...What are you trying to download? What do you need help with? Anything pertaining to your pressure washer project? Fat-game huh? I never heard that one before! Don't feel bad Deanaoxo...I just finished running one of my 10HP Briggs Coleman generators...I kind of rebuilt the engine on it..oh it started in one pull (like usual)..but the generator part isn't putting out. (I knew girls like that back in school...anyways)...I will have to "field flash" it using a 12 volt battery to reinstill the magnetism in the gen coil.
Note on compression test: These engines have a built-in compression release mechanism that works off of the camshaft. It bumps one of the valves open just a hair on the compression stroke...so when you take a reading...it will always be low. You cannot circumvent the release. You can take the engine apart and disassemble parts of the ACR (Automatic Compression Release) but you won't like what the pull start cord does to your hand trying to start it. The ACR cancels automatically when the engine hits like 800 or 900 RPM. So, a good reading on a BRIGGS with an ACR may be in the neighborhood of only 50-60 psi.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

link removed, link removed, well, as you expected, there is debris. Fuel filter is ordered, fuel cut off is on it's way, i'll also install new tubing. Respect. The gasoline did not smell funny, it may of contained ethanol(this will never happen again, as i've been lectured about that extensively now!), but i'm well on my way to making this thing work, me thinks, although my day did not go as well as my physical this morning.

The fat-game is what i signed up for when trying to download the e-book that was recommended by roperdoug (Engine Specifications Chart - Briggs & Stratton Engines Ebook Manual Download - Ebook, Product Manual, Owners Guide) i tried, no luck. Now i have to cancel that whatever it is i signed up for, so it goes.

and now, with respect to all, i shall make myself a nice adult beverage, contemplate dinner, and encourage my friend who is currently in my shop flogging my drill press~!~ all the best, deanaoxo
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

Stale gasoline smells like turpentine. Didn't I attach a link to download the torque specs?
Here the link to the owner's manual and the parts list:
link removed
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

The link took me to something else, sorry. The gasoline is fine, i'd just purchased it about 2 weeks prior. There is debris though, no doubt. More pictures tomorrow. I'm sorry it takes me so long to do this, just not able to focus on it right now.

Again, the level of help, the detail of your analysis, is amazing. I'm excited to get this thing up and running, and prove that it can be done.

Thank you roperdoug, thank you ShotOut.

dean
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

ShotOut, is there a particular brand of motor oil you prefer? The manual says SAE 30, which seems now to be more difficult to find, as the majority of oils all seem to be marked either for diesel, or are multi-grade oils.

deanaoxo
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

Shotout will probably tell you the same thing. 10W-30 is the same thing as SAE 30 as far as the highest operating temperature. The W just indicates the velocity on starting an engine at cold temperature. For example in Maine in the winter someone starting a car at 11 degrees needs an oil that is fluid or thin enough to flow through an engine that is sitting in cold weather yet will not thin out too much when the engine reaches operating temperature. An SAE 30 or higher, the oil is too thick to flow through the engine causing wear so they need something that is maybe 5W30.
Now you are not going to pressure wash the house at 11 degree and in my lifetime as a native of Jacksonville, FL the temperature reached 11 degrees one time back in 1983. The first number is mute. All told though, a 10W-30 probably be sufficient unless the temperature of the engine goes over 210 degrees. A 10W-40 oil is designed for engines that operates at extremely high temperature.
The Brand is a matter of preference. I usually use Havoline and that's only because my favorite racecar driver (now deceased), Davy Allison drove a Texaco Havoline 28. Just stay away from cheap store brands. They may be ok for cheap lawn mowers but not a pressure washer.
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

This link should take you to a pdf of the Briggs and Stratton Spec sheet which includes gap and torque specifications for most all of Briggs and Stratton engines.
link removed
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

thanks, the spec sheet calls for SAE-30. If you knew me, you'd know there will never be a case of me needing a multi-grade oil in a machine that uses water, outdoors. If it gets to 50, i freak out. Born, raised, lived here my whole life. Love Florida, can not stand the cold. BTW, i've cleaned everything pretty well, the inside of the carburetor looks damn skippy, and i'm waiting for parts so it can all go back together. That oil was very dirty, but i could not tell if there was gas in it. Though as ShotOut points out, it takes very little to make a mess of things. Will be way more careful if this all goes back together again and works, fingers crossed.

oxoanead
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

If my model number is 02093, which model is my one on that chart?????

[QUOTE=roperdoug;96226]This link should take you to a pdf of the Briggs and Stratton Spec sheet which includes gap and torque specifications for most all of Briggs and Stratton engines.
link removed
roperdoug
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

roperdoug

Let's not get confused between the Model Number of the Pressure Washer and the one of the Briggs and Stratton. Look for the Model of the motor. Usually it's listed by Series. Yours is 126T02 0131E1 060929FA so you would look under 12000 series.
Interesting link on reading Briggs and Stratton numbers:
link removed
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

Hi guys I would like to reiterate one thing about these SMALL engines. Clean gas, Clean AIR, and Clean oil are IMPERATIVE to keeping them up and running....and for their longevity. They all eventually require disassembly to do carbon removal as well; both the 2 strokes and 4 stroke engines.
As far as small engine motor oil. I like synthetic, It is less likely to break down under HIGH heat conditions like our machines here in Florida endure. Their detergent additive package is also superior to conventional motor oils and keeps engines cleaner longer. Synthetic oil also helps an air-cooled engine run cooler. It costs a little more, but it is worth it.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

I can't wait to put this back together, fire it up, and make you all proud. Such a rich community, thank you so very much, everyone has gone way out there for this, and i've learned a great deal. Just waiting on parts now.

Have located the ethanol free gas station, will get some straight 30 synthetic and put the correct amount in, will change it on schedule, have ordered the additional filter, and gas cock. Went by my local auto parts store and got a foot of 1/4" gas line for $1.63! Cleaned the whole thing up nicely, including rinsing out the tank, etc.

The head looks great now, and i'll post more pictures after it's all together. In reality, i've not spent much time on this at all, just a little bit more than dropping it off and picking it up at my local shop, where i would of paid enough for a solid payment on a brand new unit.

deanaoxo
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo Of course sir, you are quite welcome on this end. I still have a concern about your machine though. That being when you found "copious amounts of oil" on it and under it. Since you cleaned it up, has it leaked out anymore oil anywhere? A good place for that to occur would be where the shaft exits the engine..as a BAD crankshaft oil seal can let copious amounts of oil out if one of them (there are two of course) fails so keep an eye on those areas. Where the case cover is bolted to the block is another place to keep an eye on. There is a sealing gasket behind the case cover which can leak. This still greatly concerns me. The bolts on the cover need to be tight to specifications.
You might have trouble finding straight SAE30 synthetic. 10W-30 will work fine for synthetic. But BRIGGS specifically states to run straight 30 in the summer (if using conventional oil) and multi-viscosity oil in colder temps.
Do-It-Yourself repairs can be quite rewarding financially and spiritually plus you get the opportunity to learn something as well. I tried to re-magnetize the rotor on my Briggs generator today. I had no luck. I have more to learn about this deal too!
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

The 12000 series Briggs engine MODEL designations are listed that way (as Doug's posted link may show) to indicate that these engines are 12 cubic inches in displacement (including YOURS). The larger the ENGINE model number; the larger the engine is!
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

Well well well, sometimes the USPS just lets you down. Shipped on the 3rd, priority mail, received now, March 10th, 12:30. Looks like i'll be putting 'er back together this afternoon, report to follow.

deanaoxo
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

deanaoxo Careful installing the cylinder head..Others say "Well, I always know that the hottest part is under the most stress. That would be the bottom right corner or exhaust valve area. Start above it at that side at 60 in-lbs, move across opposite the same, up to the same, across to the same (bottom right), and continue in a back-and-forth motion around the head in a clockwise direction (kinda) until done. Now redo at 120 in-lbs, and finally at 165-185 in-lbs. "
I am trying to impress the importance of the sequence the BOLTS are installed in..you do not want to warp the aluminum head. I feel these torque ratings listing above are incorrect as they do not concur with listed Briggs cylinder head torque specs. Those specs are MUCH higher than what is stated above.
Be sure to tighten the head bolts in increments....not full torque all at once, using a criss-cross pattern.
deanaoxo
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

deanaoxo

ShotOut, i'm glad i didn't see your last post. Man, this thing, but let me tell you, started on the third pull, and that's what counts. I will elaborate after i eat something, just ran it long enough to wash my van at it's lowest speed. Did an aero shut down, and now will let it cool off, go check the oil level and tomorrow, continue where i left off, hopefully.

Mainly, i want to stress what a great community this is, the depth of knowledge is astounding, and right on.

thank you all, more asap.

deanaoxo
ShotOut
Reply: White Smoke, Oil Leak Troy-bilt ...

ShotOut

Hi deanaoxo We are glad things are working out! Any MORE white smoke? Some folks may have doubts what caused your initial problem, but I still stand by a flooded carburetor leaking gas into the engine THEORY. Let us know more when you can!
Cheryl
Question: Pump Fluid Requirement

Cheryl

What fluid and how much is required in the Troy-Bilt Model 020293 power washer pump?
larry
Question: Power Washer No Presure

larry

My power washer has lost pressure , I replaced one o ring in wand but still no pressure, any help welcome
JTBoa
Question: Power Washer Shaft Seal

JTBoa

does the punp shaft seal come in the repair seal kit?
fancyboxy