My brother plugged my saw into a 210 plug and burnt it up. When you pull the trigger it sparks and smells bad. I was wondering if I need more than the carbon brushes to fix the problem?
I think it is time to take your brother saw shopping with you! When a 120 volt tool is plugged into 220 volt power it can do lots of damage. You will want to test the switch, check the brushes and have the field and armature tested by a motor shop. The sparking and smell would be from a bad armature. I would be willing to bet that the field has also been damaged. All of these parts would need to be replaced.
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
Bolt for depth lock? Question by Stephen Tashiro
The depth lock (parts 85,86,87) needs a bolt. An ordinary bolt might do, but it would have to have a thin head so that it didn't hit the blade guard. On my saw, this bolt has a head like a rivet. Is this bolt/rivet in the parts list?
On the lower guard there is a small hole to the side of the blade spindle, one end attaches there. On the upper guard there is a eyelet on the inside of the guard, above the blade spindle. The other end attaches there.
Your HD5510 has bearings on the armature and one on the arbor shaft. First you will need to tear the saw down so you can remove the armature from the field. Once removed you can remove the armature bearings from the armature shaft using a small bearing puller. The new bearings can then be pressed on or you can use a soft mallet to tap them on. The bearing on the arbor shaft is captive between the flange on the shaft and the shaft gear. An arbor press could be used to remove the drive gear and then the bearing could be pressed off. Assuming that you likely don't have an arbor press, you can replace the arbor assembly including the bearing with part #2610904889.
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
Review by B. Webb
Love the saw but cannot find new blades in our shopping area. I purchased the saw from Sears but they do not stock the blades.
The biggest problem with this saw is finding blades. Ive been using this model on and off for 20-25 yrs. I use one till I get sick of looking for blades then switch to something else. Dandy saw, pity about the blades.
Response #2 Posted By Ted
I use 5 1/2" blades with 1/2" or 5/8" (bushing) arbor sold for cordless circular saws. Readily available at big box stores in my area and everywhere online.
Review by cabral
I love this tool,it cuts everything from wood,plastic aluminum,etc. I use it on the jobsites daily.I have to keep an eye on it because everybody loves it. I have a skill wormdrive and it is very heavy.I only use it for more rigerous jobs.Once again this is a tool that sells itself when used in front of other tradesmen,it is trully remarkable. Thank You Saul Cabral
I think my Craftsman 135.27540 5 1/2 inch Circular saw is identical to the Skil HD5510.
The side edge of the baseplate on my saw isn't parallel to the face of the blade. So when I run the baseplate along a guide, the blade is cutting at an angle and it wanders or burns.
When I purchased the saw (new), the metal band with the depth adjustment slot (the one that HD5510 parts 85,86,87 slide along, it sticks up like a fin from the baseplate) was twisted and it was hard to adjust the depth of cut. However, I think this twist was what aligned the edge of the base plate and the blade. I untwisted it and this probably caused the problem.
I'd like fix the alignment without re-twisting the band, even if it means making a modification to the saw. Have any other members had experience in this matter?
It's unclear to me whether getting a new baseplate would solve anything. I'm not sure whether my saw was mis-manufactured or whether all the saws were aligned by twisting that metal band.
A even simpler question for HD5510 owners. If you hold a square across the front face of the assembly on the base plate that holds the bevel adjustment, do you find that the other arm of the square is ...
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