hi minerva , you not speak spanish?

Hello John,

The best way to test an armature is to do a HI-POT (High Potential) test. In short, a HI-POT test takes two conductors that should be isolated and applies a very high voltage between the conductors. The current that flows is measured. If too much current flows the points are not well isolated and they should fail the test.

A qualified tool repair center in your area should have a HI-POT tester in their shop and at no or very little cost will test your armature for you.

Hope this helps,
WJA

Have you tried hooking the front end on then lowering the back end? That's how they go on. If this does not work you have a problem

My guess is to replace or rewire the on/off switch.

Hi Larry,

That is definitely a switch problem. Here is a link to the switch part number,Ryobi BTS20R Switch.

Check your brushes

I bought this saw for the price and configuration to fit in my work truck. The wheels and stand are a great plus for me on the job site and yes, the adjustments do get stiff.

Hard up and down adjustments are always a problem when the saw is built up with dust. You need to clean the shaft with a soft wire brush to remove the wood dust and lube all of the parts. I do this every month. I use this saw almost every day on the job with two others (my empolyees) and the one thing I cannot stand is when I see them forcing equipment. There is always a reason for trouble, (bad bearings, dust build up, wood knot in track, screw wear-ready to strip, etc. Etc.).
Just a little awareness and TLC takes care of 90 percent of the problems. I also use a leaf blower on the job to clean saw dust from side walks and grass and I always blow out the saw when we are finished to reduce the build up of dust on the working parts.
Another problem this creates is that the rear of the adjustment shaft will wear into the threads (this happened to my saw). The fix here is a new shaft. I think it would be nice for Ryobi to have a bearing at the rear attachment point of the screw shaft. I think this would help the shaft from wearing away and most importantly make it much easier to raise and lower the blade. There is quite a bit of pressure all the time at this point. Good luck clean,clean,clean.....
3-27-2010.

Hi dodger,

I would say that the switch is plain worn out. Something inside of it is broken so that the contacts won't return to the off position. It should be a very easy repair to make. You will need the new switch which is part #984406001. Make note of the position of the wires on the old switch before you remove them. Then install the new switch using the wiring notes you made.

That should have you up and cutting in no time!

-UtahAV
-Mark

[QUOTE=UtahAV;4714]Hi dodger,

I would say that the switch is plain worn out. Something inside of it is broken so that the contacts won't return to the off position. It should be a very easy repair to make. You will need the new switch which is part #984406001. Make note of the position of the wires on the old switch before you remove them. Then install the new switch using the wiring notes you made.

That should have you up and cutting in no time!

-UtahAV
-Mark"

Thanks a lot, Mark. I really appreciate your response. I am waiting on the new switch to arrive in a few days.

Dodger

The important thing on these small saws is a sharp blade, and a fence that is true to the blade. I cut 2" oak - 3/4"maple - 6/4" popular and a ton of 2x4's etc., on my ryobi and when the blade is not sharp or the wood starts to bind or pinch the blade the power breaker trips well before the saw ever stops This saw has power and it has limits too!! It's not a 3 or 5 horse power cabinet saw that will throw an oak plank through the wall (like the two I have in the shop) also if your ripping a 2x4's do not use an 80 tooth blade or even a 50 tooth for that matter!!