After letting my bt3000 remain operative for several months, I attempted to cut a 0.5 thick board. Shortly into the cut, the motor remained running but the saw blade never turned even when the board was removed.
My BT3000 has lasted for many years and although I have been tempted from time to time by expensive cabinet saws, I could never see enough added value to upgrade. Over the years I have added just about every accessory at one time or another, and they all worked pretty much as advertised. Unless I hit the lottery or a disaster happens, my kids will probably have to make the decision of what to do with it when I die. It isn't glamorous, it isn't expensive, it just works -- what more can I say?
I purchased this saw with the knowledge that I did not have a big footprint in which to work and that the saw incorporated a router table, came on wheels and could be rolled out of the way when not in use. Yes I've replaced the motor, but like I said, not knowing the saw limits, I pushed the saw to do things it was not built for .I ripped solid oak 3" by 3" stock and it did not bode well for the saw motor. Having learned this lesson. The bandsaw is now in use. Since this time I have only replaced the shims, the rip fence, (which I broke by dropping it). The adjustments, once fine tuned have stayed. The main thing I do is make sure the dust port stays clear and that the dust build up under the machine is cleaned. I have had a router installed in the table since I purchased it and it is the handiest tool in the shop. I constantly make sure to wipe down the surface and wax the rip fence guide. I don't think twice about having bought the saw. It has served me well. I am well able to afford a bigger saw but because of the space limits, no other saw replacement can accomplish what this saw does for the space. I won't be getting rid of my saw .
One of the shims that the motor rides up and down on is stuck and makes it hard to adjust blade up and down. What is the procedure to replace these shims?
You have to remove the left side cover and the remove the blade cover. After this you will remove the blade. Behind the blade there are 4 screws. Loosen all four. If the shim is on the backside you will pull the plate, if the front is where the problem is I would run the blade to its upper level and pull the shim and reinstall a new one. After you bring the blade all the way up, hold the shim and crank it back down to remove. Clean the saw dust from the entire inside of the saw at this time. All gears all corners. It won't hurt to spray the gears with a grease-less spray.
new motor Question by tony
Where do I find a new 15 amp motor for the bt3000?
It is very difficult to stretch the belt onto the pulleys so I put the new belt in hot water for a few minutes and it went right on.
BT 3000 Motor bearing bushing Question by Vern
I recently bought this saw. The motor was dragging, throwing sparks, and sounding as if it was bound up. Taking it apart I see the back bearing is only mounted into the bakelite motor case. The schematic shows a bearing bushing above, yet says it is obsolete. What gives? This is allowing the armature to be pulled off center so that it is dragging on the coil windings. I cannot believe a new motor housing would hold any better for any period of time, and if I cannot justify buying a complete motor for the price listed above.
Hi Bob, There should be no need to take the saw apart. The motor is accessible from the bottom of the saw. One thing you do need to confirm is whether your saw has a 13 or 15amp motor. The 13amp is discontinued and no parts are available for it. The 13 amp was replaced by a 15amp motor upgrade which is supported. The brushes for the 15amp motor are part #4540007 and are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com. Good luck with your repair! -Mark
Motor needs replaced or rewound Question by Mike B
The saw has been a good worker for me. My son turned the switch on, went into another room to plug in the extension cord (at a job site) and then took a few minutes to walk back to it.
Apparently a small chunk of wood was wedged in the blade guide and it caused the motor to smoke.
Is it reasonable to replace the motor? Has anyone done this? Right now it's just taking space up until I find a motor for it.
I would check the brushes out 1st.
If they are not cracked and at least half the material is still present on them then you know the windings have burnt the insulation off. In which case it will be time for either a new field assembly or a whole new motor. My guess is the insulation has burnt off of the field assembly and you don't need a completely new motor, BUT I am not a specialist or a tech so take that for what ever its worth to you.
I would take the motor to an electrician to get the field and armature tested 1st though to make sure which is bad or that only one of the two is bad.
Review by Happy Man
I've been very, very happy with this saw. I expect it to last me for a long time.
I have had my BT3000 for several years. I purchased it because I have a small shop, and have equiped the saw with wheels. The sliding mitre table has served well for the dozen times I've used it. I check the square on that before using and have never had to adjust it. I also made a Tenoning Jig for the sliding table and find it invaluable for this tedious task. The blade lift does clog with dust but I find if I clean it at the end of each use I have no trouble the next time. I have not used the router mount yet. I am building a router table with cabinet and plan to use the mount on the BT3000 for a second set-up during projects. Sorry to hear so many have had issues with this saw. It is, in my opinion, several steps and a leap up from a basic 10" contractors saw or that stupid 'circular saw' table saw from Sears. And, since I don't have room (yet!) for a full blown cast iron monster, this one does just fine, and then some.
My saw also has proven to be excellant. I'm wondering if some are confused with either a newer model of the 3000 and 3001. Apparently Ryobi downgraded the newer units to maintain price instead of quality. The newer units are not the quality as the older units.
Review by Dan (owner of EWC
I have been through 2 delta & 3 craftsmen (Sears) and they don't match this saw. I've got the bigger sq.stand and inclosed it to make cabnet to hold tools ,Works Great ,BETTER THEN GOOD. ( THANKS FOR MAKING A GOOD SAW )
Best ever parts hunting tool !!!!! Fast and easy a child could do it .. found my part in 1-2 min as a first time customer .. and your shipping options are the Bomb
I have limped along with this thing for the past 4 years. My wife bought it as a gift. She meant well as it was WAY better than what I had. So after reading this you can use your imagination as to what I started with. 1. The shim at the back of the height adjustment fell out within the first 6 months so that has been a pain. I have to lift the back of the motor while raising the blade. I use the wrench as a lifting device. Fun. 2. The pinion gears clog with sawdust so you are constantly screwing with that issue. 3. The raise/lower handle keeper (at the keyway) broke about a year ago. so I used a piece of conduit to hold that together. More fun. A crescent wrench works also. Way more fun. 4. And now the miter table fell off the guides so I'm out until I get that replaced. 5. The dust collection system leaves a lot to be desired. I connect a piece of PVC to the port and connect that to a garbage can. Pretty backwoods but it works (sort of) until you are running thick stock. Then saw dust flies everywhere. The fun continues. 6. The 90 degree stop on the mitre table broke at aabout three months.
And so it goes. Over all though I have been able to turn out some above average products with this. It is not a high grade saw and I never expected it to be. I never expected it to be such a pain though. It has provided me with a lot of good times and a lot of angry moments. Unfortunately I will continue to limp along with this until I can afford to upgrade. Grizzly, Powermatic, Delta...
I like this tool. It is nice to be able to see the breakdown drawing on the same page as the pricing and ordering information. Too often you need to have multiple pages from multiple website open to get this information. My one suggestion would be to place the drawing letter first in parts list table, A5 instead of 5A.
Its hard to keep the sliding table square with the blade. Its hard to keep the cross cut Tee square. Its hard to keep the rip guide square The drive belts were a bear to replace
Weld on one table leg broke
The main reason I purchased this model was due to the router table but after having the above minor problems I would think twice about the purchase and go for a craftsman 10"
I want to cut wood, not mess with alignment adjustments.
The original switch differs from what is shown in the current schematic. The original I have is two large square on and off pushbottons, one red, one black. The schematic shows a black rocker type on/off swich. Is this really the correct replacement switch and does it fit the cutout in the front panel of the saw????...
Read this post in the
forums
I am trying to replace the drive belt on my saw. I do not how to separate the pulley shaft from the saw in order to put the belt on it. Can anyone help?...
Read this post in the
forums