How to Fix the Starter on a Ryobi Trimmer
Replacing the spring in your trimmer's starter assembly is easy with these professional tips, and it will even save you money on parts.
How to Replace a Primer Bulb
Replacing primer bulbs in small engines is one of the most common types of tool repairs, and this article explains professional steps for primer bulb replacement in two engine design types.
How to Replace Trimmer Line
Become a line reloading expert with this article's steps for replacing line in three different trimmer head types: single line, double line, and Speed-Feed heads.
Discussion
Discussion for the Ryobi 725r (41CD725C034) Handheld Trimmer
could it be that the muffler be clogged where the engine won't run unless fully choked? I have overhauled the carb., replaced the fuel lines and filter, cleaned the screen on the muffler. I have done everything that the videos suggest so I'm leaning toward the muffler being the problem. need some advice because I'm out of ideas. thanks so much
Over the years Ryobi has used a number of carburetor manufactures. But the Ruixing has been very popular with them lately. Most of the time you can inspect you carburetor and see a brand name or at least some kind of model number on it. Search those numbers and it might come up with the manufacture.
My Ryobi 725r trimmer recently stopped starting. I pulled the spark plug and it was a bit black so I figured after 5+ years I would replace it anyway to see if this was the problem. Still not starting...
Does anyone have a step-by-step list of what/how to check components to get to the root of this? I checked a bunch of posts but didn't see a good list...thx.
We have prepared articles and videos, I think will help you with your repair. Here are the links to a few that I hope you can use to get your trimmer running again.
The fuel assembly kit is essentially a plastic post and round filter that sits in the bottom of the gas tank. The post attaches to a fuel line.
How do you get the plastic post "seated" into the hole in the bottom of the fuel tank. It is impossible to reach it and apply any downward pressure. If you try to pull on the fuel line (from outside the bottom of the tank), you just pull the tubing off the plastic post.
trim the old tubing off as close as you can to the tank. There will be enough nipple contact to connect the new line. Just make sure the line is the correct size or it wont grip it. As a trick, to make sure a line will stay, is to buy a smaller diameter line, cut an angle on it, spray it with carb cleaner (softens it) then press it on. When the cleaner evaporates, it will not come off unless cut off. Hope this helps!
After running for about 90 minutes, the plastic blade guard ripped off from the screws. It was as if it was "old plastic". I have most of the pieces....is there any warranty on this product?
You may want to contact the place of purchase, or a link removed Authorized Service Center in your area and explain to them what happened. Hopefully they will take care of you.
Good luck,
-WJA
Reply: Guard Shattered
demoman
just a thought to consider, check the cutting blade on the guard if you still have it to see if it was even on the guard and to see if it was sharp. I had the same thing happen and it was the string that played out and grabbed the guard and ripped it off. However, I went to a local junkyard for weedeaters and found one for a buck.
Reply: Guard Shattered
257967
I installed this on my old 105r, and laid the trimmer gently down on the floor. Came back 3 days later and it had broken off. Never turned the motor on after installing. Am getting a replacement and crossing my fingers. I wonder if they've changed the plastic on these.
Reply: Guard Shattered
tahel
It is now 10/21/2010.
I'm the person ("257967") who wrote about the guard shattering before even being used. Well, I installed the replacement guard extremely carefully, taking all kinds of precautions. Today, we used it for the first time. It only lasted 30 minutes before shattering. Clearly the plastic is no good, and it is NOT the plastic that this part used to come made of. For something that costs about $20, this is awful. I don't know what we'll do for our Ryobi 105r now.
Can you buy just the male female coupler that attaches the boom drive shaft to the attachment drive shaft or do you have to buy the whole upper housing assembly
The part number for the screw that hold the guard on is part number, 791-181858. They are sold in quantities of four. If it is the screws that hold the line trimmer blade on the guard, the part number 791-682061 would have to be ordered.
Often times it is used as a quick connect. Rather than replacing the complete fuel line if the unit has to be worked on, a splice connector will be used to save time in repairs. Hope this helps!
Reply: Fuel Line
demoman
It is used to make carb repairs easier. Oftentimes, fuel lines crack with age when the carb is being serviced. So, to make it easier, a plastic quick connect is used so that the carb can be disconnected and serviced without threatening the rest of the fuel lines that go to the rest of the machine. I hope this helps.
I have to continually push the primer bulb to keep it running otherwise it will die within 2-3 seconds of being cranked up. I tore the carb apart and everything looked fine. Upon reassembly I noticed that fuel runs straight through the inlet into the left side of the carb where the diaphragm is and then bleeds out the small hole in the venturi of the carb. The diaphragm didn't have any tears, etc that i could see. Is there a rebuild kit for these carb's? Or do I have another problem? Thanks
Edit: Upon looking at the pic's that have been posted I noticed I had my fuel lines routed incorrectly. Even after fixing that though it will still only run about 5 seconds after being primed then die. Any help thanks!
I can understand where you are coming from! However, I used to make similar gaskets and found that there can be miniscule tears in the fabric of the gasket that can cause this same problem. The easiest solution is to purchase a carb kit for under $12 and rebuild it yourself. I have learned that if a person can operate the thing, they are more than qualified to fix it. Try it! Let me know what happens...
I have done everything possible to stop the 2 lines coming out of the tank from leaking. Short of buying the assembly, is there any way to stop these leaks? Any help is appreciated.
The tank leaks around the lines because the lines have become hard and brittle with age. The lines form their own seal where they pass through the tank. As they age and become hard they no longer make a good seal and begin to leak. They will need to be replaced. In this case you will need to replace the tank assembly. Ryobi offers many of their tanks as assemblies with the lines already in them due to the difficulty in replacing the lines only.
The line does seal against the tank. The line's OD is slightly larger than the hole in the tank. The line forms its own seal to the tank. The old line has probably become hard and brittle with age. This will cause the line to no longer seal and the tank to leak.
I hope this helps,
-UtahAV
-Mark
Reply: Fuel Line
demoman
Hello Ronnie,
I agree with Mark. However, sometimes it can be a real pain to rethread the new lines. I have seen something else done in this regard that has worked for those who dont have the tools or know how. J-B Qwik, sold at most stores will provide a secure bond around the aperature of the tank entry point, pending the rest of the lines are not cracking too. While I dont recommend this myself, it has worked for others. Be careful!
Removal of the clutch drum isn't too hard of a project at all if you know a few tricks first. We have prepared an article and video that will provide you with all of the information you will need to remove the clutch drum. You can find the article and video at the following link...
Does this part (753-04344) have a male-female coupler, one at each end? If not, what is the part number for a drive shaft that can accommodate attachments and extensions?
The assembly has a squared off shaft on one end that fits into the clutch drum on the motor assembly. The other end has a female coupling that accepts the accessories.
I hope this helps,
-UtahAV
-Mark
Reply: Upper Drive Shaft
The_Average_Joe
Again UtahAV is making a simple "Yes" or "No" question into something complicated.
YES, this is the complete upper assembly. It has the upper flexible drive shaft included. Basically, a pipe with a flexible drive shaft in it.
If the upper drive shaft has broken (as in my case), you need not buy anything else (example: handle or screws).
On My Muffler this Bottom Port is Melted off, what would be the Cause of that?
Which in turn melted a Hole through the Bottom of my Carb/Air Clnr Housing assembly.
Replacing the upper dive shaft is definitely a doable repair for most do-it-yourselfers. Probably the most difficult part is removing and replacing the grip. In fact I suggest also purchasing a new grip just to make the repair go a bit more easily. That way you can just cut the old grip off of the shaft.
I hope this helps!
-UtahAV
-Mark
Reply: Upper Drive Shaft
The_Average_Joe
UtahAV is full of crap. Cutting off the handle would cost you another $35-$80 in parts. When all you need is a 5/16" socket wrench to loosen and slide the original handle off. Most of this guy's answers have been vague and expensive.
If you've got a small arsenal of wrenches and screw drivers, it's fairly easy. Basically, take it apart and put it back together again. No rocket science involved.
I have a 725r that will not start. Tested with spark tester and spark is good. Replaced carb, primer bulb, spark plug and air filter, no luck. Removed muffler and checked for carbon and scoring, all looked good. Any other suggestions? Fuel system is not leaking and verified lines are right,
I sounds like you have already checked just about everything. The only other things I can think to check would be cylinder compression and maybe a bad ignition switch.
Unfortunately your trimmer is probably finished. While anything can be fixed, it probably wouldn't be too economically feasible in the case of a seized engine. We have an article and video that talks about oil / fuel mix ratios and what happens when there is not enough oil in the fuel. You can find it here...
Hi Wayne,
First, is there fresh fuel or is it from last season. Second, replace the filter in the tank. They love trash. Third, iit could be a hi/lo furl air mixture problem. But if it ran great the last time you used it, probably not. Unless, it has been sitting for some time. Carb diaphragms will often harden if not used for a period of time. The easiest fix if you are sure it isnt the first two is to purchase a carb kit and rebuild what you have. It is very easy to do and you will be suprised at the results. I hope this helps.
Ryobi 725r "small Spring" (A32 #791-181459) location
Question by JimK
Mark - can you explain or give a link showing where the "small Spring" (A32 #791-181459) is located in the head assembly?
I purchased a new slider (#753-04257) for the Ryobi 725r and am in the process of putting everything back together - I have seen the exploded view on the parts page but i am not sure where the small spring goes. It appears the spring goes underneath the slider, but what keeps it in place?
I replaced the rotted fuel lines and I am pretty sure I have them correct. Does fuel flow from the filtered line in tank to the bottom of carburetor? The priming action should suck fuel from tank through bottom of carburetor, through carb (supplies fuel to start), through, primer bubble, back into tank? Can't get the engine running and it because I am not getting fuel. I prime but seems that fuel is not moving in the lines.
A friend replaced the two fuel lines on my 725r and left off a black piece that separates the two fuel lines that go into the primer bulb. How do I put this part back on? I couldn't figure out where it goes.
I replaced the spool and knob on my 725R. When the motor spins the string spews out without a bump. I can pull the string by hand and it does not latch. Everything in the hub appears to be working, but clearly something is wrong. Help?
The slider [A34] has broken, which is why I'm on this page. It keeps the teeth on the plunger [A37] engaged to keep spool from constant feed.
Reply: String Spews Out Without Bump
Mark
Hi Dan,
Double check that the string is wound in the proper direction, there are arrows on the spool indicating the winding direction. If the string is wound backwards it can do what you described.
I hope this helps!
-Mark
Reply: String Spews Out Without Bump
Richard
There are two springs under the bump clutch assembly. An easy fix with a spring from your click type ink pen.
The primer bulb on my 725r is broken. The bulb has an orange ring around it with a black base that has the nipples sticking out of it. My question is... Can I replace just the bulb, or do I have to replace the entire part?
The primer is sold as a kit. It includes the new primer assembly and a new piece of fuel line. It is item #B11 on the parts diagram, part #791-683974B.
We have an article and video that covers the replacement of primer bulbs. You can find it at the following link...
Is there another substitute head assembly that can be used instead of the parts shown for #s 30-42? Or, do I need the exact Ryobi parts shown in the diaqram?
I bought my Ryobi trimmer at my local Home Depot, but they don't carry replacement parts for this model (too old?) No lawn service repair facility in my area seems to know how to order any parts (they cannot find part numbers), and I'm not sure they know how to remove and replace the trim line assembly.
The trimmerheads used on most of the Ryobi trimmers are proprietary designs. Therefore you won't find many, if any, aftermarket replacements. You will need to order the Ryobi replacement parts to repair your trimmerhead.
I have had this trimmer for 11 years. It has done very well for me until recently. I can start it with no problem when it is cold. After running for about 10 or 15 minutes it starts to bog down when I give it gas and then it dies. If I let it cool down it runs great for a little while. Where do I start to troubleshoot the problem?
Check your fuel line, I had the same problem and replaced it and started working well. Good Luck
JJ
Reply: Dies After Running 15minutes
demoman
Hi Oliver,
Carbs can be tempermental at times. I have had the same model work opposites in different temps. JJ is onto something. Plus, when you do get it started, right off try adjusting your low mixture needle (looks like a screw in the carb) while at idle, then rev and adjust the adjacent screw for top end. Finding the right mix can be just right. You will know when you get it right. It will purr at idle and scream when let loose. I hope this helps!
The trimmerhead is offered as a series of parts, there is no ready to go assembly due to Ryobi's design. The trimmerhead consists of items #30-42 on page A of the Parts Diagram.
Hello Gib,
there could be a couple of things to try. First, if it idles good when warm, your "Hi" mixture screw needs adjusting. On the carb you will see two screws. Generally, looking straight at them, the "lo" is on the left, and the "hi" is on the right. Once you are warmed up, open the throttle and listen. Try rotating the screw in or out to see the effect. If it bogs down, go the other direction until you hear it start to sputter. Back off a half turn, and do the same with the lo side. You will soon see the best way to set your machine. I wish I could help more but this is a start. Let me know what results you have.
If its not too late, make note of the fuel line routing from the tank to the primer bulb and carb. Take a small piece of the line to the local mower shop so you are to get the same size line. Feeding the new line into the tank is nearly impossible as the diameter of the line is slightly larger than the hole in the tank. Its made this way so that the swollen line creates its own seal around the hole of the tank. Try this trick: Slit the end of the fuel line down middle for approx 1 inch. Cut off off one of the pieces so that you have sort of a long taper. This will feed easily into the hole at the bottom of the tank. Take a pair of very long needle nose pliers, reach into the tank and pull the line up through the tank. Fishing pliers work great for this job. Pull the line on up through the tank opening. Attach your filter. Pull the line back through from under the tank so that the nipple on the filter comes through the hole with the fuel line attached. Use the same trick to feed the overflow line into the tank.
Ryobi 725r 41BD725A034 Bottom hose from primer to bottom of gas tank has come loose at tank end. Taped the hose but gas in coming out of the tank. The other hose looks like it has a connector but this one does not. How can this be repaired? Thank you for your help!
It is a "force fit" line. It simply pushes into place in the bottom of the tank. If yours no longer fits snug you probably have a bad tank or, more likely, a worn fuel line.
Unfortunately that doesn't sound like a problem that a simple adjustment is going to solve. It sounds to me like the carburetor is plugged. You will need to rebuild or replace the carburetor. There is a rebuild kit available. It is part #791-180090. A new carburetor is part #753-04255.
I hope this helps,
-UtahAV
-Mark
Reply: Carburetor
demoman
While I tend to agree with Mark, before you rebuild or replace the carb try this: write down how many (do it softly) turns it takes to bottom out the hi and lo screws to the carb. Then back them out, lightly spray carb cleaner into the ports, softly reseat the screws to the carb, back them out according to your earlier notes and try starting. Use your choke as normal. If you get it started but it sputters, turn the "lo" (often left) screw in or out a half turn. Continue to turn in the direction that is smooths out. Then, do the same for the "hi" screw with the only difference you want to rev it up or open it up, doing the turning all the while. While this isnt in the books, it has proven very effective in time and money. I hope this helps. Let me know, I am curious to see the results.
Removal of the clutch drum isn't too hard of a project at all if you know a few tricks first. We have prepared an article and video that will provide you with all of the information you will need to remove the clutch drum. You can find the article and video at the following link...
Removal of the clutch drum isn't too hard of a project at all if you know a few tricks first. We have prepared an article and video that will provide you with all of the information you will need to remove the clutch drum. You can find the article and video at the following link...
My Ryobi 725r is getting good spark and fuel and compression but will not start. It will not even try to start. The gap is good on the plug as well. The primer bulb good. The hoses look good. What could be the problem?
Have you checked your magneto? Put a screwdriver on the spark plug boot, and hold it very close to a metal engine part. ie: engine cooling fin etc. have a friend pull the rope (no plug in the hole please) and see if you get a spark. if not then the ignition control module is suspect.
Reply: 725r Will Not Start
Dave
Remove the muffler and check to make sure the exhaust port is not blocked by carbon build up.
Reply: 725r Will Not Start
demoman
Sounds like the only thing left. Buy a $12 carb kit and fuel filter. It is very easy to rebuild the carb. Just take note of how you take it apart, and reverse the process. Truthfully, I this is a very common problem. But an easy fix. Hope this helps!
I need to know this too. I have stripped the powerhead from the shaft, and removed all the mounting screws. The clutch drum and clutch are holding me back as I cannot figure out how to remove them to slide the plastic face housing off of the unit to allow access to the spool for rope replacement.
Mark - can you explain or give a link showing where the "small Spring" (A32 #791-181459) is located in the head assembly?
I purchased a new slider (#753-04257) for the Ryobi 725r and am in the process of putting everything back together - I have seen the exploded view on the parts page but i am not sure where the small spring goes.
I have the same problem as JimK. My old slider broke into pieces. While removing the rest, the spring just dropped out and I don't know where it was at. Any help in identifying where it goes would be appreciated.
I have a ryobi 725r ez I cleaned it all up and replaced the gas lines. Now it doesn't want to stay running unless I continually press the primer button, what is the problem?
Maybe the fuel filter. It is in the gas tank connected to one of the two lines coming out of the bottom of the tank.
Reply: Im Lost
Dave
When I have had problems like this on other whips, there is usually a pin hole in the line which is allowing air in which breaks the vacuum. When you push the primer bulb, you are forcing gas through the line. The hole prevents a consistent draw.
Reply: Im Lost
UtahAV
Hi Joan,
My guess would be that the carburetor is either plugged with dirt or debris or the diaphragm in the carb has become hard. The carburetor will need to be replaced or rebuilt. The new carburetor is part #791-182875. The carburetor rebuild kit is part #791-180602.
I have had this for a few years and it has been either very good or a problem. I always suspected a loose connection in the ignition section. Now it will not start and has no spark. I have tried a new spark plug with no change. I would like to open the unit up to check connections but I cannot seem to figure out how. Any suggestions? Thanks!
I've had my trimmer 10-15 years, and no repairs. I tried starting it the other day (after using it the previous day) and now I can't even pull the rope more than 2"-3". It feels like the whole recoil assembly is locked. What should I check and how hard is the recoil assembly to remove. What should I look for?
My 2-cycle Ryobi string trimmer has no spark with the old plug or a new plug The plug wire is in good shape. I can feel some shock if I hold the plug wire when turning over the engine, but I cannot see any spark. I assume the magneto/module is bad? Any ideas otherwise? Thanks.
How do I remove the outer spool from the bushing housing? I have removed the two retainer clips etc. but it still will not come off the bushing housing. Please help! Model 725R Ryobi curved shaft gas trimmer
How do you remove the outer spool from a ryobi 725r gas trimmer. I removed the retainer clips & slider assembly, but it does not want to come off of the bushing housing assembly.
Thanks
I just replaced the fuel lines on my Ryobi 725r. I can get it started however it dies right away. I have to keep choking the engine to keep it running. I have new gas in the tank. Did I get some trash in the carb?
I tried to replace the original reel on my 725r trimmer with a Ryobi self feeding, pro-cut fixed line head. It came with lots of parts so it would adapt to many models. I started using it and the screw on the end fell off. I checked it and tightened it up but it happened again. I installed it the only way it would go on. So
what did I do wrong? Is this a common problem?
I need to repair the fuel lines on my trimmer (ryobi 725r). I am not sure if I need the fuel lines or the whole fuel tank assembly. On the underside of the tank there is just two holes. I see the fuel line assembly has the fuel filter and the washer to hold it to the tank, but the fuel return is just a line. It is a old trimmer and not sure if there is a suppose to be a nipple or if the fuel line returns come with a way to connect it to the fuel tank.
The return line just slides into the open hole. If you have the right size line it will not leak.
Reply: Fuel Line Repair
Dave
I have the same problem. My return line is original line and slips out when putting fuel in the tank. I will epoxy the line in the return hole to seal.
A broken clutch spring shouldn't affect starting the engine. Starting issues are usually related to bad gas, bad spark plug, damaged fuel lines, a clogged carburetor, a bad ignition coil or a damaged piston and cylinder. Of all of these possibilities the vast majority of starting and running issues are caused by a clogged carburetor.
The carburetor can become clogged by dirt or other debris. The dirt may get by a damaged or missing air filter. It can enter through a crack in the fuel lines. Some tools use a foam air filter. Over time the filter itself will breakdown and create debris that will enter the carb and clog it. It is a good idea to replace the air filter at least once a year. If fuel is left sitting in an unused engine for more than a couple of months the fuel will begin to breakdown and go bad. As the fuel breaks down it will start to become gel like as well as begin to coat the internal parts of the carburetor with a varnish. The gel and varnish will plug the carburetor so that fuel can no longer flow through it. To get your engine running again you will need to either rebuild or replace the carburetor. When you replace the carburetor it is always a good idea to also replace the air and fuel filters. This helps ensure that more debris won't clog the new carburetor.
I hope this helps!
-Mark
Reply: Broken Clutch Rotar Assembly
Aaron
Thanks Mark
I fixed the broken spring. Sure enough like you said had a broken fuel line leading from the primer bubble to the carburetor. It was real had to see with the muffler shield in the way. I didn't even see it but, had another 725r that runs, realized when you push the primer bubble it makes a noise. There was no noise from the broken 725r. Checked the fuel lines and sure enough busted line. I have ordered the parts from you all and should be up and running in no time. Thanks again and have a great day!
I need a diagram for the proper placement of all the fuel lines on the Ryobi 725R trimmer. I just got the parts from you (fast shipment!) but the old lines are completely gone. Any help would be appreciated. Walter
The fuel line from the tank to the primer button broke. There is just a small hole in the fuel tank where the fuel line goes. Is there suppose to be a nipple for the line to connect to? If so do I need a new fuel tank?
There is no nipple or grommet. The line itself seals the opening in the tank. You do need the exact size line or the tank will leak. The primer and return line is part #791-683974B and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
In your responses to people about where to find the number within the ( ), what part on the illustrated parts break down are you referring to as the "motor housing" and how difficult is it to get off to find the number in the ( )??
The "Motor Housing" that the sticker is usually located on is item #34 on page B of the parts diagram. Quite a bit of disassembly is needed to remove the housing. We have an article available that will guide you through the process. You can find the article at the following link...
Hi, I am having trouble getting the trimmer started. I replaced the fuel lines and primer button, it ran good one time, stopped and will not start. I don't have my instruction book that came with the unit. I see two screws by the carburetor but I don't know how to adjust them. Please inform me. Thanks
The screws would only be used to tune a good, running carburetor. If your trimmer used to run but then wouldn't the problem is almost certainly a clogged carburetor. The carburetor can become clogged by dirt or other debris. The dirt may get by a damaged or missing air filter. It can enter through a crack in the fuel lines. Some tools use a foam air filter. Over time the filter itself will breakdown and create debris that will enter the carb and clog it. It is a good idea to replace the air filter at least once a year. If fuel is left sitting in an unused engine for more than a couple of months the fuel will begin to breakdown and go bad. As the fuel breaks down it will start to become gel like as well as begin to coat the internal parts of the carburetor with a varnish. The gel and varnish will plug the carburetor so that fuel can no longer flow through it. To get your engine running again you will need to either rebuild or replace the carburetor. When you replace the carburetor it is always a good idea to also replace the air and fuel filters. This helps ensure that more debris won't clog the new carburetor.
There is not a rebuild kit available for the carburetor on your trimmer so you will need to replace the carburetor. It is part #791-182875 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
The Fuel Return Line is part #791-181086, the Fuel Line Assembly is part #791-682039 and the Primer & Fuel Line is part #791-683974B. All of these parts are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
Hit a major snag! Can't remove the outer spool from the bushing housing assembly. Can't figure out retainer removal. Also removed from spool - a bit of what appeared to be a destroyed paper gasket/washer above the retainer. Is that included in replacement? Spool also wobbles on the spindle a bit. Is that normal? How is A32 small spring positioned in the spool or slider?
The spool is held in place by the bump head Knob, item #41 on page A of the parts diagrams. The knob simply unscrews from the bottom of the trimmerhead.
There is an adjustment screw for the idle. Look at the carburetor connection to the trigger cable. The screw is in plain sight and sits on top of the connection to the carburetor. There is a hole that is marked "idle" on top of the head covering. You can access the screw through that hole.
I am a little uncertain but I believe you are looking for the lower drive shaft? It is item #23 on page A of the parts diagrams. The lower drive shaft is part #791-181852 and is available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
I replace the fuel lines and it doesn't start. How do the lines go? Right now I ran it from fuel tank, to primer pump, to top of carb, from bottom of carb back to fuel tank. Is that correct ? Thank you.
My upper drive shaft is wallowed out at the very end where the square piece from the bottom comes in to join it together. Can I order just the inside or is the drive shaft and housing one solid piece?????
The upper drive shaft is only sold as an assembly with the drive shaft housing. The drive shaft housing assembly is part #753-04344 and is available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
Hi, I replaced the line on the head started the engine and now the line wraps around the shaft every time. What part do I need A39A or A34 or both? The line comes out and wraps before it can cut itself off.
Thanks
First, verify that the line is wound in the right direction on the spool. If it is wound the wrong way it will feed out almost uncontrollably like you mentioned. I have done it myself!
If the line is wound correctly then I would look at items #33 and #36. These two parts are what allow the line to feed when the head is bumped.
The Slider, part #753-04257, and the Plunger, part #791-181462, are available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
I can get the trimmer started. Runs good. New spark plug. New gas. But when I pull the trigger, it looses power or dies.
I'm thinking fuel lines and/or muffler plugged?
It sounds to me like you are headed in the right direction. I would start by looking at the muffler. Remove the spark arresting screen from the exhaust opening and inspect it for carbon build up. If the screen is clogged with carbon it will need to be cleaned. Using an old pair of pliers grasp one corner of the screen and burn it out using a propane torch. Set the screen aside to cool. Now remove the muffler and inspect it for carbon build up or unburned oil. If the muffler is clogged you will need to replace it. Inspect the exhaust port for carbon build up. If there is build up you will need to scrape it away. Be careful to not scratch the piston. Now reassemble everything. With a little luck this will solve the problem.
If the trimmer still isn't running good then it is likely the fuel lines or the carburetor. Inspect the fuel lines for cracks or other damage. If no damage is found then it will be a plugged carburetor. There is no rebuild kit available for the carburetor used on this machine. The carburetor is simply replaced. The carb is part #753-04333.
Do you have replacement lines and tanks available for the 725r
as the line to the primer bulb has broken off the tank and the line from the engine to the tank needs replacing due to a hole where it touched the engine. I believe there three lines on mine and I would like to replace them all if possible.
Hi Charles, Yes, We have all of the parts you will need to repair your trimmer! First, the new fuel tank is part #753-04310 and comes as an assembly with the tank, the fuel cap, the fuel filter with fuel line, and the fuel return line. You will also need part #791-683974B which is the primer bulb with fuel line. Careful note the routing of each fuel line before you remove any of them. It will make reassembly much easier! All of the above parts are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com! Good luck with your repair! -Mark
How do I remove the bumper head on the 725r model?
Reply: BUMP HEAD ASSEMBLY
Mark
First remove the spool just as you would if you where replacing the trimmer line. With the spool removed you will be able to see a retaining clip. The clip is item #A38 on the parts diagram. There is a spring in the assembly above the retaining clip so keep that in mind as you remove the clip. With the retaining clip removed you can now remove all of the parts up to the upper retainer, item #A31 on the parts diagram. Remove the upper retainer and now you can remove the trimmer head housing.
My 725R Ryobi trimmer runs great and I've had it for nearly 10 years, but recently the drive shaft connection point seems to be stripped and no longer spins the trimmer line or my edging attachment. Looking inside the upper drive shaft housing, it appears that the square receptacle has become rounded and as a result is not providing the torque required to turn the lower driveshaft attachments.
Any thoughts on how to repair?
Does the entire upper driveshaft need to be replaced?
Or is their a way to replace the connection point on the upper driveshaft with a new fitting for the attachment shafts?
Hi Wayne, The upper shaft will need to be replaced for your repair. It is part #753-04344 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com Thanks! -Mark
I ordered a replacement tank but the one i got looks and is shaped nothing like the original. Is it still the correct replacement? I have the 725r and I have the tank part number 753-04310.
There are two different fuel tanks used on the model 725r trimmers. The way Ryobi differentiates the models is with a "bar code" number. There will be a bar code sticker on the underside of one of the motor housings on your trimmer. You will likely need to remove the housings to find it. On the bar code sticker there will be a number starting with the number 41. An example of the number would be 41AD725A734. With that number you can look up the proper parts breakdown and find the correct fuel tank.
You are correct, the drum is removed by the screw. It is normal rotation or counter clockwise to remove. You will likely find that as you try to remove the screw the engine will want to rotate with the screw. You can stop the rotation by removing the spark plug and dropping a small length of rope, like an old shoe lace, into the hole. The rope will bind up the piston which will stop the rotation. Just be sure and leave enough of the string hanging out of the engine so you can remove it later.
Where can I locate the numbers between the ()'s in the 725r model numbers listed on the website. For example 725r (41ED725A034)< where is this code found.?
The "bar code" number is printed on a sticker that Ryobi usually locates on the underside of one of the motor housings. You will likely need to remove the motor housings to find the sticker with the number.
my initial problem with my gas trimmer was I could tell the engine wasn't getting the oil it was supposed to and noticed a broken cylinder gasket and large oil leak. I ordered the gasket. When I put it back together, do I need to lubricate or do anything more to the cylinder before I start it?
Hi Ernie! Anytime you rebuild or put an engine back together, it is always a good idea to pre lube everything. If it is a two stroke trimmer a light coating of 2 cycle oil on the cylinder walls applied with your finger will do the trick! For a four stroke trimmer, you can either use a little assembly lube, found at your local auto parts store or a light coating of 5W20 engine oil will do the trick.
Question:
db
I have 2 trimmers. when the first developed a gas leak, I decided to buy a new one because the first one 725r was a reconditioned. the new one another reconditioned one CS30 has been broke down more than has run. If I can get new parts, I think will deep six the 30. I just need the primer pump and the fuel lines that go with it. Help
I am having trouble finding the model number on my trimmer. I've copied down from labels on the 3A6987 (98) 802-3961112 and the SN 802168444 and 501126. I need to replace the clutch cover that split in two! Can anyone help me? Thanks
I have 2 Ryobi Weedeaters. Models 725r and 790r. I have looked for the numbers that match with the numbers listed on the parts breakdown. My 725r was bought as a reconditioned unit, and does not have any identifying labels. My 790r has a label on it that has the following information:
MOD 790R BLKDF
S/N 401009944 PPN500792
It also has 2 wing screws on the part that connects any accessories. I have looked at all of the part breakdowns and none of them has the same part.
Where can I find a parts breakdown for these units?
I have a Ryobi 725r. New plug, fresh gas, I can see the flow through the gas lines via the bulb. It started for 10 seconds this morning and won't start again.
I've looked for the 41* number I've read about in other forums, but cannot find one on my machine, even after taking off the muffler and carb hoods. I see a SN and model, but nothing with a 41. I have a Zama (sp?) carb.
What else do I need to look at and/or are there steps or a diagram to follow? I'm willing to try, but not mechanically savvy.
From fuel filter inside tank directly to the carb, usually the black barb fitting on the fuel pump side of the carb. From the tank return line to the primer and the primer to the carb.
OK. by replacing the old lines which had held their shape, I think I have them in the only places they would fit. I'll find out tomorrow when I mix some new fuel and try to start it up. At least I didn't have any left over parts. Here's what it looks like now:
The drawing is correct... runs like the day I bought it. Amazing what a good cleaning and new fuel lines make!
As the old saying goes "A picture is worth a thousand words" . I was on another web-site about a year ago their explanation wasnt that helpfull, It took me three tries before I got it right. Thanks for the photo! High Rating in my book.
P.S. I printed it for future reference.
Reply: Fuel Line Routing
singersp
How does the return line attach to the tank? I see only a hole & no nipple. My fuel line rotted & broke & the piece that attched to the tank itself is gone. Does it simply push into the hole without any other piece? Looking at the hose size compared to the hole size, the diameter of the line looks to large to fit inside the hole. I have a model 725RE, but it looks identical to the 725R pictures posted here. Is there a stop to prevent the line from going in to far?
Can someone explain a little better where these fuel lines attach behind the Carb Mounting body? Mine were dry rotten and every one broke when I removed the tank from the carb mounting body before I could see where they went.
Someone posted a diagram but it seems that my lines weren't bent to fit to the carb ports he is describing as TOP and Bottom nipple The nipples are different, one is straight (top?) and one has a 90 degree bend (Bottom?)
I posted a photo. Also there isa fuel line pig-tail coming from the tank (fuel filter port) that connects to one of the other fuel lines...where does that go?
Any help would be appreciated... it's a great trimmer, I just haven't treated it very well maintenance wise and it began leaking (dry rotted fuel lines at the primer bulb) and wouldn't stay running.
Emil - came across your request yesterday. Hope you already got your problem resolved, but if not - here is an image of the gas line placements for this trimmer
I need a diagram of the fuel lines on a Ryobi 725R weedtrimmer. I purchased new fuel lines, filter, and bulb from eReplacementParts but the existing lines were to far gone to determine their proper location. Any help would be appreciated. Walter
Trying to get the thing to run. New coil,carb kit, compression check 90psi. saw some gas come back out the air filter side. can the cylinder be soaked in chemtool for a few days and blown out, to clear up the intake port problem? What is the nature of the port problem? link removed Mike.
Reply: Ryobi Trimmer 725R
UtahAV
Hi allen6323,
It sounds like something still isn't right in the carburetor. Most likely the inlet needle is not closing completely which allows fuel to keep flowing through the carb. I think you are going to need to open up the carburetor again.
I will assume you are referring to the upper shaft as you mentioned the clutch drum. The upper shaft is sold as an assembly with the outer shaft tube. You will remove the shaft and tube by loosening the clamp screw on the front of the clutch cover assembly. You can then slide the tube and shaft out of the clutch cover assembly. You will need to remove all of the components which are mounted to the shaft tube assembly; the throttle, handle and accessory clamp. The new shaft tube assembly can now be installed and all of the other components replaced. The shaft has a square end milled on it that will slide into the square pocket on the clutch drum. You may need to rotate the opposite end of the shaft to get the shaft and drum to line up properly.
I have just replaced the full lines. It starts great link removed only a few minutes and dies. Is there a fuel filter? If yes, where?
It is a model #725R
I too replaced fuel lines, starts OK, but won't stay running, keeping choke partally on helpd but still quits!
I also think I see "bubbles" in fuel tank!!
Is there somekind of a fuel check valve in the fuel circuit somewhere??
If you or anyone has help for a fix for me, please respond!!
link removed
Reply: Ryobi Gas Weed Trimmer
Robert Gunns
PS: Forgot in first reply--fuel filter is in the tank on the end of the fuel pickup line!
link removed
Reply: Ryobi Gas Weed Trimmer
UtahAV
Sorry to hear that your initial repair didn't work for you. Like Robert Gunns said, there is a fuel filter located in the fuel tank. You can usually bend a wire into a hook to fish the fuel line with the attached fuel filter out of the tank for replacing. It is a good idea to do a "tune up" yearly on all of your gas powered tools. A basic tune up would consist of replacing the air filter, fuel filter and spark plug. Doing this should greatly contribute to great running tools. The problem you described of starting but then dying a few minutes later sounds like dirt or other restrictions in the carburetor. You mentioned that you replaced the fuel lines. If there was a hole in the feed line in the tank it very likely pulled dirt from within the tank into the carburetor. By replacing the carburetor (part # 791-182875 ) you should have a great running trimmer again!
I blew up the Power Unit for my Ryobi 725R Trimmer Plus Click -Link. I've been told that multiple manufacturers are compatible with this unit. Can anyone provide names of manufacturers and associated model numbers?
There is a Ryobi service center nearby and considering all the problems people are having with this 25hr engine "warranty" as I am. (Doesn't stay running (nothing runs like a toro)) How much would a service center charge versus diagnose and DIY, ALSO how long will the "refurb" last till it needs it again.
Depending on the above, it might be easier to buy an Echo or Stihl WW in my opinion.
In the end I would have 2 weedwackers which one I would have to fix to sell.
I've had this trimmer for years. Starts good all the time. Feeds the trimmer line well. Easy to load the line. Just needs a primer bulb after all this time
Excellent tool. have owned this trimmer for over ten years. Very reliable. Always starts. The only parts ever needed were not due to breakage but from normal wear and tear. I am not easy on my tools, thats why I always buy Riobi products.
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