Hello MarkSr,

The part number AC8630 planer knife set is made for a 13 inch planer. The Ryobi AP10 is a 10 inch planer. The part number for the knife set you will need is 6660425.

Hope this helps,
-WJA

Hello bcflblitz,

Ridgid carries a 3 year warranty on there tools. In this case the 13 inch planer. I am not sure what type of warranty covers parts installed by the tool owner. You will have get in contact with the company you purchased it from. Quite a few repair centers will not cover any electrical part that was not installed by them.

-WJA

Hi,
Yes replace rollers as sets and always replace your bushings when replacing rollers.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hi thenip,
No there is no adjustment.If you are getting excessive slop in the drive chain then most likely you have wear on your roller bushings.Hope this helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hi mjones,
Generally thats an indication of a roller problem.They might be dirty or worn.I'd try cleaning the rollers first and if that won't work I'd replace them..Whats happening is when the first roller grabs the board it slip enough to momentarily stop the feed and the blades cut deeper into the board.When the secound roller catches the board it feeds the board smooth enough to not allow an over cut.As the first roller lets the end of the board go the second roller splis enough to allow an over cut.Hope that helps.
Tinker

First off, on the right side, there is a blolt that sets the position of the tilt/rotation of the motor, in order to tighten or replace the belt, remove this bolt. If you look at the diagrams, on the motor, you will see a screw on the left hand side of the motor you will have to try using(on the Ridgid/Ryobi it's a allen head screw, labeled as special screw), it's small and the end of it is deep into the plastic housing, the allen key size is about 1/16th or so, it's metric so you will have to try your different small allen keys till you get the right one. Remove that screw, it will permit you to remove the piece holding the on/off switch and the breaker, remove the nut that holds the breaker switch so that you can remove the whole cover, then if you look closely at the bottom, you will notice the pivot rod, it's about 5/16" thick, follow it to the left side, above it (I forgot to mention, that you need to remove the upper cover of the planer and the 2 sides before getting to this point), so above it, there is an allen set screw, back off the set screw so that you can slide the pivot rod, once the set screw is loosened, use a punch to push it from the left to the right, now remove the screw the hods down the receptacle cord and slide the motor out from the left side then, pull it to the left, you may have to make sure that it's not hanging up on the belt. once you have this all done, you should have the motor laying in your hands. (I wrote this when I was tired after a 15 hour day, so forgive my lack of continuity)

Hello Hotshot,

The item number AC8630 is available to order. It is set a knives.

-WJA

I just tore mine apart last night for the same repair. . it isn't easy. Many hidden screws and it is a large jigsaw puzzle. Basically take off outer case by removnig allen screws on top, remove wheel that lowers and raises, turn the black bar that runs behind the motor to loosen, pull out all allen screws that hold the gear mechanism and pull that whole assembly out, then remove serpentine belt so motor will tilt, on left side of unit there is a small hole with a set screw holding the axel the motor tilts on in place, remove that and with a punch drive the shaft out far enough to fully remove motor unit, remove ground screws from base of unit. remove two screws and rigid emblem logo which holds the motor unit together to switch. Remove screws from back and snap ring from around pulley end and the armature should fall right out. That should save you about 2 hours of studying and searching for hidden screws.

Hi jc63gal,
It sounds like the knives are set too low. Loosen the blade screws and reset the knives making sure the notch on the knife is seated on the cutter-head. What is happening is the knives are lower than the feed roller and the direction of the cutter-head is forcing the stock backwards.
WJA

Hi Cathy,

There are two rollers on your planer, the infeed roller and the outfeed roller. both rollers are shown on page D of the parts diagrams. The infeed roller is part #828939 and the outfeed roller is part #828938. Both parts are available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

You \r armature is likely damaged.

I just tore mine apart last night for the same repair. . it isn't easy. Many hidden screws and it is a large jigsaw puzzle. Basically take off outer case by removnig allen screws on top, remove wheel that lowers and raises, turn the black bar that runs behind the motor to loosen, pull out all allen screws that hold the gear mechanism and pull that whole assembly out, then remove serpentine belt so motor will tilt, on left side of unit there is a small hole with a set screw holding the axel the motor tilts on in place, remove that and with a punch drive the shaft out far enough to fully remove motor unit, remove ground screws from base of unit. remove two screws and rigid emblem logo which holds the motor unit together to switch. Remove screws from back and snap ring from around pulley end and the armature should fall right out. That should save you about 2 hours of studying and searching for hidden screws.

Hi james, The brushes should move freely up and down the brush tubes. They may have corroded or saw dust might be jammed between the brush and brush tube.You might try blowing compressed air on both sides of the brush tubes to remove any dust etc. Also you can put a few drops of penetrating oil and let it sit then if you can reach the front and back of the tube gently pushing back and forth to see if the brushes can be removed. I've had them so tight that we have had to replace the brush tube so good luck.Hope this help.
Tinker

Thanks Tinker. I hope it's just the brushes. I was planing some white oak and the motor started sparking then quit, followed by some smoke......ouch!!! I figured the brushes would be the best place to start.:confused:

James

Hi,What model do you have.

Its the older Ridgid 13". The model number on the machine is tp1300.

Rollers generally won't cause a skipping problem as long as the wear is even on the rollers. The problem you have is most likely caused by the roller bushing being worn.The bushings are made of bronze and have a lot of lateral force place on them during the operation of the planner.As the bushings wear the center of the rollers axes is off enough to not allow both rollers to be inline with each other.this causes slop in the feed chain and cause an uneven feeding of the product as it moves through the planner.With the planner unplugged reach under the planner and grab the roller and see if you can feel any play it it.Feeling play by doing this is not always possible so you might have to take the side cover off and visibly inspect the bushings.Hope this helps.

Thanks for the help. I took the side off and there is some slack in the chain that connects the outfeed roller to the blade roller. also some slack in the other chain connecting the two feed rollers. Is that normal? I did some more research and discovered that this skipping may be caused by incorrect pressure from the outfeed roller. Where do I look for wear on the bushings? and can the bushings be replaced?

Thanks for any help - as I use my planer alot.

Hi, On your model you have four bushing blocks. Just follow the rollers out to the end and you will see them.They can be replace and are part of a normal wear item for planners.

I don't see a fuse ether. I would go back to the brushes. Sounds like they might be hanging up. And not making contact with the armature.

have you try use your finger to roll the roller? see if it jam? and by the way ridgid have a lifetime grantee, try to contact ridgid, holp it help.

i will try that and the repair shop is not taking any more ridgid tools they are backed up! but you did give me a idea thanks.

I just tore mine apart last night for the same repair. . it isn't easy. Many hidden screws and it is a large jigsaw puzzle. Basically take off outer case by removnig allen screws on top, remove wheel that lowers and raises, turn the black bar that runs behind the motor to loosen, pull out all allen screws that hold the gear mechanism and pull that whole assembly out, then remove serpentine belt so motor will tilt, on left side of unit there is a small hole with a set screw holding the axel the motor tilts on in place, remove that and with a punch drive the shaft out far enough to fully remove motor unit, remove ground screws from base of unit. remove two screws and rigid emblem logo which holds the motor unit together to switch. Remove screws from back and snap ring from around pulley end and the armature should fall right out. That should save you about 2 hours of studying and searching for hidden screws.