For a planer to do its job, you need to make sure the blades are as sharp as can be. This video will walk you through the steps needed to change your Planer blades so you always get the best perform...
This video outlines the basics of power tool and appliance electrical diagnosis. You can use a multimeter to test tool and appliance cords and switches, the two parts usually responsible for electri...
Discussion for the Ridgid R4330 13" Thickness Planer
If there is oil leaking from the Ridgid R4330 planer gear box. That is about the only place that would be lubed. You may want to think again about purchasing it since the 089170105803 Gear Box Assembly is no longer available.
The Brush part number, 827811 is still available. As for the 827810 Brush Cap, which is no longer available. You should be able to locate a suitable substitute at a local power tool service center. Take the good cap to them and see if the can match it up.
If your referring to 089170105006 BLADE SPRING there should be a total of six.Two for each blade.If I remember right they are dampener springs used to control harmonics created by the spinning cutter head .This lessens the chance of the screws coming loose.To the best of my knowledge that's the purpose of them.Hope they help.Good luck.
Reply: Rigid R4330 Planer
Thanks Tinker, I just have found out that the springs have been discontinued so I will heli coil the two stripped holes and try it without the springs and check the tightness of the screws often. Hope it works otherwise I will have to heli coil two holes on each blade holder. Thank for the help. Thad
The part number 827701 pointer housing is black plastic with an arch type hole in it. Behind it is the 827732 pointer. It indicates how much you are planing of of your stock. the stock will touch the 827733 pointer elevating rod and it will raise and lower the pointer as it goes through the planer. The 827739depth indicator is a clear plastic piece which is in front of the 827715 thickness scale.
Reply: Pointer Housing
The part number 827701 pointer housing is black plastic with an arch type hole in it. Behind it is the 827732 pointer. It indicates how much you are planing of of your stock. the stock will touch the 827733 pointer elevating rod and it will raise and lower the pointer as it goes through the planer. The 827739 depth indicator is a clear plastic piece which is in front of the 827715 thickness scale.
I just bought a Rigid 13 inch planer. The belt broke and I needed to know how to put the replacement belt on. I do not know how to get how to access the pulleys to put the new belt on. Does anyone know how?
About 6 mo ago I had to change my knifes for the first time. Most of the the hex bolts or screws were frozen and I stripped a few of them using the tool that came with it. Now I'm faced with the problem of taking out stripped screws in order to change the knifes. Any suggestions? It's that or throw this machine away. And I really like this plainer. It really does a great job. Help
That is a common problem with the portable planers. Many manufactures use an aluminum cutterhead and steel blade screws. The two different metals will tend to corrode together and seize. I have found that using one of the cordless 1/4" drive impact drivers works good to remove the screws. However now that yours are stripped you are going to have to try some other methods.
One trick I have used with some success is using a Torx driver bit. You will probably need about a T-20 or T-25 size driver. I which ever driver seems to fit in the damaged hole best and then hit the end of the driver a couple of times with a hammer. The star shape of the Torx driver will tend to grab the metal, sometimes enough that you can remove the screw. Again, if you have a small impact driver try it to remove the screw.
You can also try using an EZ out. You may need to drill into what is left of the screw head to give the EZ out something to grab a hold of. Just be careful to not drill into the cutterhead.
Last option is to grind the heads off of all of the remaining screws. That will allow you to remove the blade holders and blades. Be careful to not damage the blade holders. Once the holders and blades are gone you will have a stud about 1/8" tall sticking out of the cutterhead. Now you can try to grab the stud with a pair of vise-grips. You will need to grab it very tightly. With any luck you can remove it that way. This is a last resort however because once you grind the top off of the screw all of your other options are gone. The only other repair is to replace the cutterhead.
I hope this helps with your repair!
Reply: Changing Knifes
This might be too late but, I had the same problem with mine this weekend. Tried everything I could think of and every suggestion I could find online. I liked mark's suggestion and it has worked for me in the past, but not this time. I wound up drilling the screw head just enough to knock off off the head of the screw. Once I got the heads off I removed the blade retainer plate and was able to turn the screws out by hand. Must have been the head that was holding it in. Good luck I know just how frustrating this is.
Reply: Changing Knifes
I had the same problem because the wrench provided was junk. Try a better quality wrench. I think it is a 7 mm open end wrench but it has to be a bit flat to fit into the cutterhead spindle. Good Luck
Reply: Changing Knifes
Just had the same thing happen to me, only it was on my 5th set of blades. Use a right-hand threaded screw remover, #2 or #3, to remove the stripped screws. You'll most likely need to drill clearance holes in order to get the screw remover to engage, I did. One other method that I've had good luck with in the past is to slot the screw heads, allowing a LARGE flat screwdriver to engage.
The stock screws are very soft, I've ordered replacements in hardened alloy. The screws are button profile socket head metric allen screws, size 6mm x 1.0 x 16mm length.
Once you replace the screws put a drop of Permatex Anti-Seize (any automotive store) on the threads prior to installing the screw.
Reply: Changing Knifes
What I find works best for me in this case is to use my dremel-tool with cutoff wheel to cut a screw-slot. Depending on how tight the bolt is, you may also need to use an impact tool after striking the bolt head sharply with a flat-punch and hammer to relieve the stress.
Same here..Planing along just fine for the past few months. Maintenance time has arrived and most of the screws seem to be welded in place. I have a few out but the tool is long dead and so is my metric wrench. Slotting the heads hasn't worked either. I'm replacing them with hex if I can ever get the screws out. I feel a nasty letter to Ridgid coming on...