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Discussion
Discussion for the Ridgid OF45150 Oil Free Compressor
I have a ridgid portable electric twin tank compressor that pressurizes to 135 and shuts off but escapes from the little hole on the pressure switch above the the tank pressure line. I have already replaced the pressure switch and the relief valve. What do you think the problem is?
rigid of45150 :runs to 75 lbs. and get no higher but continues to run,air appears to be leaking from regulator valve ,opened pitcock with much rust coming out,pleez help
Reply: Ridgid Portable Compressor
WJA
Hello mikewells8221,
If your regulator is leaking air, you'll probably need to replace the complete 17793 regulator assembly, since they don't supply a regulator repair kit. As for the rusty water coming out of the petcock valve. It is a good idea to drain your tank every time you use it. Condensation builds up in the tank and that's where the rust is coming from.
-WJA
Reply: Ridgid Portable Compressor
Tinkerdave
[QUOTE=jrioux;72950]I have a ridgid portable electric twin tank compressor that pressurizes to 135 and shuts off but escapes from the little hole on the pressure switch above the the tank pressure line. I have already replaced the pressure switch and the relief valve. What do you think the problem is?"
If the compressor leaks out air after the compressor stops try this. Down on the 17728 Check Valve some of the check valves have a cap that can be removed.(make sure your tank is drained before removing the valve cap)Under this cap ia a spring and small rubber disc.This is your check valve.If this does not seal correctly high pressure air will bleed out and exhaust itself through the pressure and/or head assembly.Look at the valve to make sure rust and scale is not on the seat preventing the valve from closing all the way.Clean it good and try it again to see if your getting a good seal.If it continues to leak replace the check valve.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker
Reply: Ridgid Portable Compressor
mikewells8221
hi thanks for info,i had just purchased this compressor(of45150a)@pawn shop for $40 bucks,i knew it had issues but i couldnt pass up the deal,upon further investigation i realized the fan shroud was missing,and the regulator is only leaking a little while it is turned down low,ive read a few other replies and quotes and was thinking that maybe the pump or compressor motor rings might be worn hence it wont produce more than 75 lbs.,does this sound right,and is there a rebuild kit available that wont cost so much that it wont be worth it financially,is rebuilding able to be done without special tools and knowlegde only know by rigid certified techs please help
Reply: Ridgid Portable Compressor
mikewells8221
how do you check compression on compressor motor(pump)?
Reply: Ridgid Portable Compressor
Tinkerdave
Hi mikewells8221,
You will need to disassemble the pump and visually inspect it.This is the only right way to see what the trouble is.
Tinker
Reply: Ridgid Portable Compressor
mikewells8221
thanks for all the help i put a piston assembly on my rigid of45150 after visually inspecting it,now it will run to about 135lbs and blow the check valve please help,thanks
The bearing for the lower piston is on the electric motor. If you look at page B of the parts diagram. You will see it right in the center of the motor on the end. Your best bet to have it replace is to take it to a qualified electric motor service center. They have the special tools and equipment to replace this bearing for you. Unless you have some experience in this field and you feel as if you could do it your self.
The compresser will usually cycle 2 times and then quit. It smells like something is burning and if you let it cool it will pump up again. Pressure is good and I have it plugged in to a 20 amp circuit with no extension cord. Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong?
Check the windings in the motor, it sounds like the insulation is starting to breakdown and after a while it will get hot enough to set off the internal overload. If the windings are dark in color and smell like burnt insulation. I would think it is time for a new compressor.
You can identify the bearing by looking on the rubber or metal shield in between the inner race and outer race of the bearing. A local bearing supplier should have one in stock. You will need a bearing puller to remove the old bearing and preferably a press to install the new one on the shaft. Or you can take your motor to a local electric motor service center and have them do it for you.
I have a RIDGID dual tank compressor model OF45150A that I recently replaced the piston and cylinder assembly on because it would not build pressure. After replacing these parts the compressor takes 20 minutes to build pressure to the point where it will automatically shut off. That is the first problem. The second problem is that after I start using the compressor it will not maintain pressure. I have to keep stoping what I am doing and give it time to build pressure again. Could there be another issue that I need to look at and if so where should I begin? The regulator does leak a little but it has always done that so I do not think that the regulator is the issue.
Hi Hunter5,
Any time you replace the cylinder and piston/rod in a oil less compressor you need to replace the reed valves.That is from the top of the cylinder to the bottom of the cylinder head. It sounds like you have a worn reed valves.Also check the check valve out of the tank.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker
The Piston/Cylinder Assembly part number 17968 does not come with the gaskets when you order this item. They would have to ordered separately. The part numbers for the gaskets are, 17958 Cylinder Gasket, 17973 Head Gasket, and 17978 Discharge Gasket.
I installed the rebuilding kit for this compressor a Ridgid (OF45150a) twinstack. Unfortunately the bearing I matched up from a bearing manufacture did not last, since then I was able to obtain the original bearing used by Ridgid for this compressor. The problem is the torque specs. I had for the connecting rod and head bolts were on my computer. My hard drive crashed without warning taking years of information with it.
If anyone can tell me the torque specs it would be greatly appreciated.
I installed the rebuilding kit for this compressor a Ridgid (OF45150a) twinstack. Unfortunately the bearing I matched up from a bearing manufacture did not last, since then I was able to obtain the original bearing used by Ridgid for this compressor. The problem is the torque specs. I had for the connecting rod and head bolts were on my computer. My hard drive crashed without warning taking years of information with it.
If anyone can tell me the torque specs it would be greatly appreciated.
My compressor is only a couple of years old. I don't use it much, but recently, I pressured up the tanks and was getting ready to use my air tools... yet nothing happened. The tanks pressured up and no air from either output from the regulator...Now, what would be the proper diagnoses procedure to determine if it is the pressure switch or a bad link removed compressor is a OF45150.
Any suggestions? or should I just start changing parts?
My compressor is only a couple of years old. I don't use it much, but recently, I pressured up the tanks and was getting ready to use my air tools... yet nothing happened. The tanks pressured up and no air from either output from the regulator...Now, what would be the proper diagnoses procedure to determine if it is the pressure switch or a bad regulator? My compressor is a OF45150.
Any suggestions?
If I replace the piston assembly w/screw do I need to replace the valve plate kit because the ring and cylinder are shot.
What should the head bolts be torqued at?
When the air pressure reaches 150psi the safety valve on my Rigid OF45150 opens and the compressor continues to run. Does the Safety Valve need replacing or the Pressure Switch or what exactly is my problem?
Most likely it is your check valve. Pull it out and check for a broken "keeper" inside. They corrode and need replacing. (replace the whole valve). To get the small line off, push in on the brass ring(where the line goes in) while pulling out on the line. To reconnect to the new valve simply push line back in. It works the same as a "Sharke bite" for plumbing. If you are unsure, go to Home Depot and look in the plumbing dept and you will see how it works.(display) Good luck.
My regulator is working fine, but there is a screw and O-ring on the bottom side that holds in the spring - it is made of cheap pot metal and broke when I tried to tighten it. Can I purchase this part without having to purchase the entire regulator assembly?
I was having the same problem. Took it apart to find that the bearing behind the counter weight was shot. Still looking to find a place to buy new bearing and to find a way to get the old one off without a blow torch!
Question:
kim kusske
My Ridgid of45150b air compressor will sometimes not restart on air draw down and will kick the circuit breaker. Is the pressure release valve causing this problem?
Hello, my compressor never finish filling the tank , the PRECION reaches 25 psi.
Can someone tell me what the problem?
What can I do?
Change the valve plate kit? solve the problem?
Thanks
If the pump runs continuously but never builds over 25 lbs of pressure then you likely have a worn out piston and cylinder. The piston and cylinder are sold as a kit which is part #17968, available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
Reply: Valve Plate Kit
gerardo
The piston and cylinder are bad...you have to change them.
I recently replaced the piston an cylinder sleeve on the oilless rigid compressor only to find that the pressure regulator was leaking. I purchased a new one an its doing the same thing. It only leaks in when turned to certain positions. I'm stumped please help.
How do you order the rod bearing? I thought it came with the rod piston package. I don't see it listed anywhere. The motor is fine, I don't want to replace it. The whole compressor costs less, new, than the motor does by itself. Thanks
It looks like the only way Ridgid sells the bearing is with the motor assembly. I think I would remove the bearing and take it to a local bearing supplier. They may be able to find a new one that will work.
Good luck!
-Mark
Reply: Rod Bearing
FRANK
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. I WAS TOLD THE PART NUMBER FOR THE BEARING IS 44565. HOPE IT WORKS!
Reply: Rod Bearing
jeff
The bearing is a 6203, buy it at a bearing house as the manufacturer uses a cheap one, I would use a premium one
After experiencing 'bearing failure' with my compressor and reading the multiple posts regarding 'bearing problems'; I've concluded that Ridgid 'dropped the ball' in not utilizing the best bearing available instead of the 'cheap O' they install in the compressor. Common sense tells me the bearings on the piston shaft are of the most used; endure the greatest amount of heat & pressure and are the most likely to fail is something is to fail. By my experience and the many posts regarding the failure of this bearing, I conclude that Ridgid skimped to save some money and subsequently lost this customer!
What a joke! The piece that holds the 0-ring in the regulator split in half. Probably a 2 dollar part, but now I have to spend over 43.00 and replace the entire regulator. Plus I have to wait 1-2 weeks for it to ship. First and last time I will buy a Ridgid compressor.
I agree ridgid compressors are junk bearing went out on mine and destroyed my fan, piston and connecting rod, if they could have made the bearing out of plastic they probably would have
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