I have a Poulan Pro S25DA chainsaw that i have rebuilt, including new carb rebuild kit. I have gotten the saw to start, but when running at full throttle the saw runs wide open then slows down, revs up, slows down over and over again. I have tried turning the high idle screw both direction with no change. Obviously im missing something, but what?
Ok, after some research I was able determine that the metering lever was out of adjustment and was sitting way to low in the carburator bowl. I readjusted it so it is now level with the top of the bowl. Now the problem is i cant get it to start and then there is fuel pouring out of the exhaust. Is this typical of it being flooded? I have flooded engines before and have never had that happen. There is excellent compression so I dont believe that it is a problem with the rings. I am still trying to get it to run long enough to make adjustments to the high and low speed adjustment needles.
Since there is no gas pump, there must be a pinch in gas line. I replaced gas line in my 25da and had to use a piece of COPPER wire to thread it through the motor. Take about 6 inches of wire, make a U hook bend about 1/8 inch on the end and put in gas line (just the hook in the gas line, this will keep wire in line) then thread it through the motor. This insures nothing gets in the gas line and it will make all those turns through the motor. Copper wire can be bent easy and keep the bends for those turns. When line is through the motor you may have to cut the U out of the line, a heavy copper wire will not pull out.
Reply: Chainsaw Won
I would make sure you have fuel from your tank to your carb. To check, disconnect your line from the carb. With a half tank of fresh fuel and a good tight cap, shake the saw. The pres. should push the fuel out the open end of the line. If not, use Brooks suggestion and check for a kink. It may be behind the fly wheel where it make a tight turn up into the air box.
If you have fuel to the carb. I would clean the carb and install a new complete kit.(carb numbers are stamped on the side of the body, exm.WA...... ) The carb has a fuel pump side (one screw holding the cover) and a metering side (four screws). If the dia's. are hard or stiff, or your inlet needle is stuck, or there is some trash in the carb, the saw will run and die with a prime (your symptom). After reassembly, set the mix adj. screws. about one turn out then fine tune. I have found that after you adj. and replace your A.F. cover it may be a little rich on idle. Play with it. Hope this helps you out. Old 25's Rock!!!!
If you still have your old cap and its leaking fuel, I've found that it's the check valve (duck bill) that's rotten. Carefully remove the star retaining washer and old valve. A Homelite Super 2 oil tank vent works well as a replacement. If not OEM, I used a after market replacement part on my saws. If your cork gasket is damaged, you might try a snug fitting O-ring. Hope this helps. Old 25's Rock!!!!!!!!
Used this saw for 35 years. During that same period used Homelite, Husqvarna, Echo and Stihl.
It ranked equal to the Stihl that I used as far as reliability and only slightly less than the Stihl as far a performance.
I've repaired it once in that time and have cut hundreds of cords of wood and landscape timbers. It's been one of my favorite tools.
Can someone point me in the direction of a repair manual for the S25DA. I tore mine down about a year ago to re run the fuel line because it wouldn't start (hadn't started it in years, but had good compression and spark, and didn't have old gas in it. so I am almost sure it was an old fuel line. which by the way the fuel line is hard and brittle and a little tanned from the heat.)
but I took the think apart a year ago and it's on my bench but after a year I've forgotten where everything goes..
this saw was given to me over 15 years ago as a young boy by the man that taught me how to use it. so it has great sentimental value and it's just plain built tough.