Hi jebnaveb,

I would think it is in the pressure switch. Possibly the pressure switch is stuck in the tank full position. You could try bypassing the pressure switch and wiring directly to the motor to test. Don't attempt to run for more than a couple of seconds without the pressure switch as there will be nothing to shut the motor off at the correct tank pressure.

The only other idea I have is perhaps a capacitor on the motor. I cannot tell from the parts diagram if the motor uses one or not. If you see one a local electronics supplier could possibly test it for you.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-UtahAV
-Mark

Thanks Mark for your reply.

I will try that later today and let you know if I have any luck.

June

Great! Let us know what you find out!

-UtahAV
-Mark

Bypassed the switch but still nothing. It looks like the motor has probably burnt out. My son said it got hot last time he used it and he said it smelt funny. Can't see any evidence though.

Think I will probably have to replace it. Couldn't see a capacitor just the fuse which looked fine.

Thanks for your suggestions.

June

If it made bad smells that is a sign of a bad motor. Sorry to hear that. But look at the bright side. Now you get to go tool shopping!! :D

-UtahAV
-Mark

Hey Jkeister,
According to your model # ..the pressure switch does not have a bleed off valve,however it does have a safety relief valve..if this is the case it will need to be replaced..# D20114...[the valve is supposed to relieve[pop off] if the air comp exceeds its shut off pressure...the only other problem with these air comps is the tube seal # CAC-1212 but if you replaced the valve plate assy..I assume the seal was ok..:)
also make sure all the air connections are secure and the discharge tube is not twisted or kinked..
Hope this helps?
cmoorejack

Thanks for your reply. I did replace the tube seal when I installed the other components. The discharge tube is not twisted or kinked. All the air connections are secure. The safety relief valve screws directly into the pressure switch. The air is escaping from a small disc with two screws under the pressure switch. The metal tube coming off the check valve and going to the pressure switch is connected to the piece I am trying to describe. Sorry. I thought it was a bleed off valve. When the compressor reaches 80-100 psi, air begins to escape from a hole in that disc and the compressor never shuts off. When I turn off the compressor, no more air comes out of the hole. What is that piece where the return tube from the check valve enters the pressure switch and can it be replaced? I didn't see it in the schematics. I also assume with this problem the check valve is working properly because it is not releasing air from the tank when the compressor is off. Is that correct? How is Orem? I used to live there and am flying to SLC tonight. Thank you so much for your help.

jkeister.

Hey j,
Gosh, it still seems like you are describing an actual bleeder valve..but your model # according to the breakdown does not show one..are you sure on the model # ? It also sounds like the tank check valve is working correctly[air in and not out]..
That ' valve ' on the p switch is actually part of the pressure switch and on this type of air comp is not a replaceable part..are the screws tight? Anyhoo, you will probably end up replacing the pressure switch..just make sure you are getting the correct one..
Things are awesome here in Orem and welcome back to the great SLC..:D
cmoorejack

The sticker on the housing says CF2600. I just bought it used. I will check the seals and screws on the plate, but the air was coming through a small hole in the plate. If that doesn't solve the problem I will get the pressure switch and replace it. Thank you so much for your replies and help.

jkeister

Hey geezer73,
You may have a number of things going wrong..possible bearing ready to go out..piston and sleeve wearing [most likely]..valve plate assy bad...check valve leaking air back into head..or a combination of things...these air compressor's are usually worth repair if you do the work yourself..but you will have to determine what the problem is first..check out the parts breakdown and see if this is something you want to take on..[if you have too many things wrong you may just want to buy new!] Hope this helps?:)
Craig

Just for reference, here's a link to the parts breakdown for that CF2600 Type 2:

Porter-Cable CF2600-2 Parts Diagram

We actually sell more piston/cylinder replacement kits and tube seals for that compressor than any other parts so I agree with cmoorejack. After a while the compression on those oil free compressors will degrade and you'll need to replace the piston, ring, and cylinder.

Big help. Thanks to you both.

The pin hole in the casting should be there. Not sure what its purpose is. Head gasket # 105. And valve plate #106 will fix the problem. Porter Cable CF2600 Parts List and Diagram - Type 2 : eReplacementparts.com

I have the same problem with mine. It looks to me like the hole is a relief to keep the cylinder from being pressurized with the holding tank pressure. This would mean that is order for the hole to continually leak air, the check valve at the tank is sticking open and the tank pressure is bleeding back up the line to the cylinder head. I am going to replace mine to see if that helps.

Matt

Had the same problem and when I read Matt's post I just slapped my head and said "of course!!!!". I verified the check valve by tapping it with a wrench and the leaked ceased.
I read in another forum where the check valve can be cleaned with laquer thinner. Haven't tried it yet, but went ahead and ordered a new check valve just to be sure the problem is resolved.