You will need a small square to align your saw. I like to use a 6" Adjustable Combination Square. Start with the fence. Lock the saws miter adjustment into the 0 degree setting. Loosen the bolts which attach the fence to the base. Using your square, position the fence so that it is square to the blade. Now tighten the fence bolts back down.
On the back of the saw there are a couple of set screws that set the zero and 45 degree stops for the bevel. Remove the head from your adjustable combination square. Now you can use just the head to set the bevel adjustments. Check the zero degree setting first and make any needed adjustment with the set screw on the back of the saw. Now do the same for the 45 degree stop.
Your saw should now be true and ready for many more years of accurate cutting!
-Mark
Speed control Question by Ron O'D
After warm up saw does not go into high speed runs slower rpm but seems to have full torque
I really am not certain what would cause the described problem. I think I would start with the controller. It is the only part I can think of that would cause the speed to vary like that. The controller is part #631218-8 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
There are several parts that could cause the saw even when tightened. The most likely is part #344411-2 (fig #131) which is the slide stopper. If that part is broken the slides cannot be locked. Here's a link to the part:
I have a makita ls1013 that has had very little use, I pull the trigger and it doesn't respond,
just before it died it appaeared intermittent for a few pulls of the trigger. I checked the brushes. Any idea's ?
Thanks gazzang...
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I'm trying to replace the blade case and need to remove the motor to do it. Any suggestions on how the motor comes off so it can be put on the new case....
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Hi Guys, I would like to retrofit my saw with a laser. Does anybody know if there is a way to convert the LS1013 to the newer model LS1013LF?...
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Has anyone expereienced this problem with their Makita Compound Slider? The electric brake is not working like it has, The blade continues to run for several seconds after you let up on the switch. I bought new brushes from eReplacementsParts.com thinking that might be the issue but the symptoms are the same.
I am attempting to repair my LS1013. The Link Plate (#18) that moves the blade guard when bringing the Blade Case (#52) down for a cut keeps falling off the pin in the Blade Case. I thought it was a simple replacement of part #19-E ring, #20-flat washer and #21-Stop ring. Should have known better, it appears that the pin in the blade case that the link plate rides on is cut/sheared. Looking at the parts diagram there appears not to be any identification of this pin. Looking from the blade case rear and moving forward from the spring the part would be the second "hole". I hope I am merely missing the part number or worst case it is not a separate part. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated because the Blade Case costs $112.00. Thanks, John...
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