Any idea on what parts are needed to stop the blade from swiveling during cutting? I bought the saw used and the shoe already had cut marks in it. The problem has only gotten worse. Thanks for any help.

The 651225-5 repalcement switch wires differently from the original switch. Which wire goes where? Thanks for any help.

I am replacing the switch in my Makita JR3000V reciprocating saw. The switch part # is 650206-6. I failed to mark the wires from my old switch and am trying to figure out where the wires go. There are 2 blue wires coming from the motor, and a black and a white wire coming from the cord. The switch has 4 holes for attaching the wires. Two of them arer marked M1 and M2. The other 2 are marked C1 and C2. I assume that the M stands for motor wires and the C stands for cord wires. Can anyone tell me if that is correct or not?? If that is correct, does it matter which of the 2 blue motor wires goes into M1 or M2? Also, would it matter which of the black or the white cord wires goes into C1 or C2?
One other thing, the 2 holes in the switch marked C1 and C2 have a set screw in them to tighten the wires, but M1 and M2 do not have set srews. How do you tighten these 2 wires?
Could someone help me with this?
Thanks

Why is the slider on the jr3000v different on the picture than the one I have?

My jr3000v has an issue it operates fine until you place the blade against something and then it wont go. I can grab the blade with my fingers and squeeze the trigger I can hold the blade while the motor operates. Can you help me?

My schematic of JR3000V Recip Saw is slightly different. I have a piece I believe is a spring pin #63 on my schematic and it was sheered leaving the Blade Clamp broken loose, your schematic does not show this part, but it is in your parts list. Your schematic shows part #70 Hex socket head bolt which is not in my schematic nor did I have one in my saw. It appears in your diagram that perhaps the Hex Socket Head Bolt is what secures the Blade Clamp to #8 Slider where as my schematic shows # 63 Spring Pin is what secures the Blade Clamp to the slider. This is the second time the Spring Pin in my saw has sheered the last time I took it in to repair, but it seems to be a pretty straight forward repair. Is the Hex Socket Head Bolt an up dated part in a later release of this same model saw (My saw is quite old) and if so do I need to replace Blade Clamp as it appears that the Hex Socket Head Bolt is threaded and my Blade Clamp has an unthreaded hole in which the Spring Pin is pressed in to secure the Blade Clamp. I can repair with a new Spring Pin, but it has sheered twice and appears to be a weak link. Also a third part #73 called a Pin is on my schematic and yours as well was pulled loose when the Spring Pin sheered. Should I replace this with a new one (I pressed it back into the Slider and it appears snug)?

I have a JR3000V. When I pull the trigger nothing happens. I have checked that power is leaving the trigger. The carbon brushes have continuity. There is continuity from the trigger to the carbon brushes through the wire. I think it may be the field but not sure as I have never diagnosed one of these before. Is there something I am missing? Any help would be great. Thanks

How to install wires in new switch?

Why do you not carry repair part 32?

Went into a cut the blade can stop and there is a squealing sound.
Your help would be appreciated.
Thanks

My dad gave me the saw and I was told it would not power on. He said the brushes had been replaced but nothing else had been worked on. The cord tested positive to power at the switch. Would anyone know what the problem could be. Thanks.

I just bought a variable speed switch for this saw but it is wired different from current switch. Need help with where the four wires go. Two form the power cord and two going to the motor.

The diagram for this 115V reciprocating saw shows two available switches--a black switch (for $21.95) and a red variable speed switch ($31.95). The trigger in my saw is black, while the switch inside the handle is white, but it varies the saw speed according to how far I depressed the trigger.

So I guess my question is, "Variable speed means I can run and lock any speed from 0 - 2300 SPM, like the switch I have in the saw that I need to replace, right?" I think I know the answer is yes, but I'm wondering because I use the variable speed feature a lot to finesse cuts through nails in wood in tight places, and would be stopping to straighten or change out a lot more bent blades if my saw ran at top speed the instant I hit the trigger.

I guess I have a second question: What sort of work do people use a one-speed reciprocating saw to do?

Thanks.

Hi--I have a Makita jr3000v reciprocating saw. It has a keyed system in order to change the blade, but I'd like to replace it with the newer toolless clamping system. Is this possible? Does anyone know where I can buy that toolless piece. THanks.

Anyone know where I can find a couple of these?

No longer available for Makita.

It's the collar with a set screw that holds the blade in place, just need the collar.

David
Paducah, KY
link removed

I have a Makita JR3000V that is about 8 years old. It has been a great saw, but the little piece that holds in the blade is broken. When I look on your site for a replacement, I see that it is item number 32. There is no 32 in the list of parts.

Is there another part that will work? I would hate to throw away such a good saw.

Its a good saw until I tried to replace the blade clamp. Now I find I need to spend close to 50 bucks to update it to accept the new blade clamp. That's just wrong!!! Why build a quality tool then make it hard for a person to repair it? I am definitely going to look real hard at Porter Cable and Milwalki from now on. You have lost my loyalty

I paid dearly for a Makita JR3000V Recip Saw. Now when a part breaks because of a faulty part, the company changes the construction of the Saw and makes modifications to the part that breaks. The problem is now Makita has 6 parts that cost over half of what I paid for the saw. Why should I have to buy their mess up. There should be a recall and they should eat the charges, not charge the customer. They should have made sure the tool was worth the price. I have never been so dissatisfied with a tool. My company will not be buying any more Makita tools and no one else I speak to will either. Makita is junk. If they felt the parts needed to be changed they should have a kit for the customer to call and get to replace it free of charge.

I've owned this tool since 1986-'87, and it's the one tool which I have relied on, and used every year since I've owned it. It is the one tool that keeps coming out of the tool box month after month, year after year, and now that it's disabled, is sorely missed. Trying to find alternative ways to perform tasks usually handled by this tool, usually ends up in disaster. I need this part, and hope it returns the tool to it's usual trusty service that I've come to rely on. My only real dissapointment is that the part that I need to return the tool to service-able condition is a quite pricey.