Electric Power Tool Parts 101
This article defines the basic parts of most power tools, explains how they work, and what to look for when they stop working.
Diagnosing Electric Power Tools 101
This article is a troubleshooting guide for problems and malfunctions common to most electric power tools.
I have seached everywhere . I called Makita and they told me to use any #2 grease.
Here is the issue . I have the saw apart , There is two bearings on the armature , the one near the blade/fan end is sealed on both sides and is in a sealed gear case. the other the one I am concerned about is at the rear of the armature and one side is sealed and there is a plastic insulator and the unsealed side this is a roller bearing had very little signs of lube in it . This bearing the unsealed side fits into a boss in the main motor housing which is some type of plastic and it has a rubber pin to keep the bearing from rotating and all is fine . I am concerned that if I use the wrong grease it may attack the plastic and or seep out and end up on the communtator or brushes. I don't intend on fully packing this bearing just enough lube to keep it lubed . Even the new bearings on many models of makita circ saws have this same bearing. The bearing is good . It's a ball bearing in a cage. I can tell the bearing has never been out and there were small signs of a sort of yellow colored lube on the bottom of the plastic boss so makita must not put a lot of lube in it and it is not a bearing that really has a load on it.
Hi William90,
Yes any #2 grease is fine.Just don't over grease it.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker
Reply: What Grease Is Best For A Makita...
William90
I just put enough wheel bearing grease in the open side of that bearing to coat the rollers and race and rotated it to work the grease in . I did not pack it solid. I cleaned everything and checked the other three bearings , they seemed ok not quite like new meaning on a new bearing you feel a slight resistence when turning it and they are sealed but didn't feel gritty so at some point I may replace them I just repacked the gears and didn't over do that either just the teeth and the back of the drive gear and the armature pinion. The needle bearing looked fine.
The brushes are about half way to the wear line and the lower guard rubber stop is a bit hard.
This is all to say it needs some parts at some point but at least the brushes are not stuck in the brass holders and can move free now . I don't use it much these days. I do have a 2002 model 5007NB which does not have the break as does the 5007NBA and talking to Makita the brake on wind down is what they said will make a bit of noise , it's got a different switch and is wired different than the NB so it's a lot like the newest 5007FA and uses many of the same parts as the 5007NB and 5007NBA and 5007F and FA .
I have an old , 1986 model from what I can tell on the lable . It has the makita name cast into the blade housing which used to be a sort of gold color. I bought it used back in 2005 and I got a new base from eparts because the old base was bent . I cleaned the entire saw and everything seems to be ok . I don't feel any play in the bearings in or out side play or back and forth. The only issue is when I shut the saw down I hear a noise as it winds down.
I have a newer model 5007 NB that I never used built in 2002 and it does not have this noise winding down. I know it probably needs brushes , I'll have to check and I may have , can't recall but I doubt the brushes would produce this sound I hear. The saw does work every time.
I see from past diagrams Makita used to list lube . My question is can I just remove the 4 screws holding the bearing box and pull the entire shaft with the gear and bearing on it and then either clean out the old lube and re- lube it or just add lube to it? I know the bearing is probably pressed onto the shaft , looking at the diag breakdown it appears I can just pull the entire shaft with parts out.
Hi William90,
What you hear is gear lash.This is not uncommon on older saws where the armature gear and drive gear have worn.If you unplug the saw and move the blade back and forth clockwise and counter clockwise you can feel a notice amount of play.You could take the old grease out and replace it with some wheel bearing grease and this might quite it down a little but this is just part of the saw getting old.Hope this helps.Good luck.
Tinker
Reply: Makita 5007 NBA Lubing Gears ?
William90
Thanks Tinkerdave:
Trouble is I feel the same amount of backlash on the new 5007NB and my makita miter saw and even my Makita 6 1/2 cordless circ saw and none of them have been used much at all . I don't hear any noise when the saw is cutting at all, only when I release the trigger and it winds down which would then be the blade and armature gear putting the force on the other side of the gears. This would then be on the teeth of the gears that would not have wear.
There has to be some back lash other wise when the gears heat up they would be tight. I just don't want to damage the gears. I had a 4 " craftsman circ saw new many years ago and it was a well made saw and I used it on a bunch of large projects since at the time it was all I had cutting sheets of 1/2" and 3/4" plywood down and on the very last sheet the saw would not cut so I took it apart and there was grease but the armature gear was stripped but I was using a saw not really designed for heavy use.
Reply: Makita 5007 NBA Lubing Gears ?
William90
I just called Makita and found out that the 5007NBA has an electric brake and the 5007NB does not . The 5007NBA uses a different switch than the 5007NB all else being the same. Also the 5007NB and the new 5007F are AC/DC and the 5007NBA and the new 5007FA are AC only and have the electric brake and both use the same switch . Basically when you release the switch the polarity is reversed to what they told me forces the motor to run in reverse for a few seconds.
So that is the noise I guess I am hearing . Who knew a 1987 makita had a brake . I never knew what NBA stood for still don't but on the saws label I did notince the 2002 5007NB does say AC/DC and the 5007NBA does not.
They all use the same cord and brushes. Now all I need to do is get the handle off and fix the cord where the rubber is broken right where the cord exits the cord relief . When I got this saw used someone replaced the cord witha three wire cord and I see marks at the bottom of the removable handle , I tried long ago to get that handle off but it catches right near the saw blade/gearcase housing boss and I did not want to force it and break it since now the new handle requires a new motor case as a set since mine has the bolts and the nuts and the new saws only have tapping screws through one side.
I have a Makita 5007NB circular saw. The lever that locks the depth of the cut doesn't lock down. I may be in the middle of a job and the saw will not hold the depth of cut I have set. I've fooled around (trial & error) trying to get it to firmly hold the depth of cut setting without reliable results. I'm wondering if there is a cam in the lever assembly or if replacing a series of components will restore reliable use. The blow up on the website shows parts that may be involved [37-41, 54, 56] but I can't see if they may be the solution. Meanwhile, I'll try Mark's suggestion to John's Loose Shoe question. - More trial & error?
I am having the exact same lever-lock problem with my Makita 5007NB and would like to know if you found the solution or which parts you needed. Thanks.
Reply: Depth Setting
Steve112
I had the same problem with a slipping depth lock. What worked for me:
Remove P.H. Screw #38 in above diagram and remove LOCK PLATE #39.
Slightly tighten HEX NUT M8 #37 (this takes some trial and error to find the right setting.
Replace LOCK PLATE #39 and hold in place with thumb as you test the depth lock. (The first time I over tightened the HEX NUT.)
After you have properly positioned the HEX NUT & LOCK PLATE, replace P.H. Screw #38.
By the way, if you are using the original power cord, you might want to remove the handle cover #19 to check the insulation. The individual hot & neutral wire insulation on my saw had dried and cracked, however the internal wiring was fine.
To replace the power cord, you'll need to remove 4 screws that secure the HANDLE COVER (#19). You'll also need to remove the STRAIN RELIEF (#16) by removing PAN HEAD SCREW M4X18 (#17).
There is a small eyelet inside of the upper guard, above the location of the spindle. On the lower guard there is a small hole right next to the large center hole. The spring connects between these two points.
We have 7 saws we use at work 5 being makita 5007nb. The older ones tend to get used for cutting plywood simply because it puts more strain on them. As a result they become less accurate. However, we have one saw that you have to rotate at least 10 degrees either direction to keep cutting a straight line. The is less then 5 years old and everything else on it is in good condition. I think it is simply the main bearing that attaches through the worm gear has worn out from all the abuse. My question is:
How do I dissasemble from the worm gear up through the bearing retainer ring? Is the retaining ring threaded on or pressed on? I have tried a couple of different things but I don't want to apply too much force and end up replacing more than I have too.
Hey phoenixgod414,
The bearing retainer is threaded..it has raised tabs that you can tap against with a flat punch or screwdriver to remove..righty tighty lefty lossey i believe..if it gets tighter one way just loosen it the other way..:)..
also look for wear or play on the spindle shaft as this may cause some wobble..and check your inner blade washer for grooves or wear..
be sure and look over an exploded view of your saw before you get down and dirty so you will feel more comfortable with the repair..[you may also need a bearing puller and or a press to remove the gear and bearing]
parts and the breakdown are avail at ereplacementparts.com
hope this is helpful...
Craig
Reply: Repairing A Makita 5007nb Wobble
phoenixgod414
thats what I thought it was. I already replaced the inner blade washer (it was showing signs of wear.) That did seem to corect it at first but when I tried to cut through 3-1/2" pieces of plywood, the saw was all over the place. I just got the main shaft bearing in the mail. Hopefully this will fix the problem but htanks to you now I know who to put it in!;)
Reply: Repairing A Makita 5007nb Wobble
tripletdaduk
hi ,just a thought ,have you checked the blade for warp? or do you have movment on the spindle ? ie with machine off and unpluged if you hold the blade can you move it backwards and forwards ,or from side to side? if not ,have you checked when machine is running if theres any blade wobble? best way to check is to run it up to full speed ,than switch off and watch blade,will be much more noticable just before blade comes to a complete stanstill..
hope this may help
My question is, is there any way to adjust the sole plate on my Makita 5007NB? It is off from the blade about 3/32" to an 1/8". I'm about ready to 'bend' something or bend something straight. Thanks in advance.
Hey Srdumo,
There isn't really any way to adjust your plate..you might need to replace you angular plate [your shoe or base plate attaches to it]..also check your blade for end play..you may have some issues inside the gearbox with the spindle or gear and that is throwing it out..
hope this is helpful..
Craig
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