Hello 896774,

Welcome to the forum. Your issue could be a number of things. For that we have prepared an article that I hope will help you with your repair. Also there are some other articles you might want look at for future reference.


Diagnosing Electric Power Tools.

Good Luck,
-WJA

I am having the exact same lever-lock problem with my Makita 5007NB and would like to know if you found the solution or which parts you needed. Thanks.

I had the same problem with a slipping depth lock. What worked for me:

Remove P.H. Screw #38 in above diagram and remove LOCK PLATE #39.
Slightly tighten HEX NUT M8 #37 (this takes some trial and error to find the right setting.
Replace LOCK PLATE #39 and hold in place with thumb as you test the depth lock. (The first time I over tightened the HEX NUT.)

After you have properly positioned the HEX NUT & LOCK PLATE, replace P.H. Screw #38.

By the way, if you are using the original power cord, you might want to remove the handle cover #19 to check the insulation. The individual hot & neutral wire insulation on my saw had dried and cracked, however the internal wiring was fine.

- Steve

To replace the power cord, you'll need to remove 4 screws that secure the HANDLE COVER (#19). You'll also need to remove the STRAIN RELIEF (#16) by removing PAN HEAD SCREW M4X18 (#17).

- Steve

Hi John,

It sounds like a simple adjustment is all that is needed.

There is a cap screw on the lever that secures the lock plate to the lever. Remove the cap screw. Now tighten the lever nut just a bit. An eighth or quarter turn is probably all it will take. Now reattach the lock plate with the cap screw and you should be set!

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Glen,

There is a small eyelet inside of the upper guard, above the location of the spindle. On the lower guard there is a small hole right next to the large center hole. The spring connects between these two points.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hey phoenixgod414,
The bearing retainer is threaded..it has raised tabs that you can tap against with a flat punch or screwdriver to remove..righty tighty lefty lossey i believe..if it gets tighter one way just loosen it the other way..:)..
also look for wear or play on the spindle shaft as this may cause some wobble..and check your inner blade washer for grooves or wear..
be sure and look over an exploded view of your saw before you get down and dirty so you will feel more comfortable with the repair..[you may also need a bearing puller and or a press to remove the gear and bearing]
parts and the breakdown are avail at ereplacementparts.com
hope this is helpful...
Craig

thats what I thought it was. I already replaced the inner blade washer (it was showing signs of wear.) That did seem to corect it at first but when I tried to cut through 3-1/2" pieces of plywood, the saw was all over the place. I just got the main shaft bearing in the mail. Hopefully this will fix the problem but htanks to you now I know who to put it in!;)

hi ,just a thought ,have you checked the blade for warp? or do you have movment on the spindle ? ie with machine off and unpluged if you hold the blade can you move it backwards and forwards ,or from side to side? if not ,have you checked when machine is running if theres any blade wobble? best way to check is to run it up to full speed ,than switch off and watch blade,will be much more noticable just before blade comes to a complete stanstill..
hope this may help

Hey Srdumo,
There isn't really any way to adjust your plate..you might need to replace you angular plate [your shoe or base plate attaches to it]..also check your blade for end play..you may have some issues inside the gearbox with the spindle or gear and that is throwing it out..
hope this is helpful..
Craig
Geneva Tool Repair

Thanks I'll look into it.

Srdumo