My compressor started blowing oil through the tanks and hoses. So I tore it apart to check the cylinder and seals. The seals are great, the piston and rings are great, but there was a wear spot on the cylinder wall. Upon further inspection, the rod and counter weight had huge grooves in them and were very sloppy. SO, my question is: how does the counter weight come off?
I am a repair shop. this tool (EC12 Air compressor) through a rod and the motor pump is old and not much good . Can we get the motor pump and install in back on the tank rack. I mean buy it as one unit instead of parts. What would be the part # for something like that?
There is not a complete motor and pump assembly available. The parts are all sold as shown on the parts diagrams.
Thanks!
-Mark
Random pressure shut off and on Question by Steve 10/12/2009
I have all but given up on the compressor. Other who have purchased this compressor here seem to have the same problem, including some on this forum.
Ran perfect for about 51 weeks after purchase.
Then it started to shut off at different pressures.
Sometimes it will go to 120psi, others times it will drain down to almost zero and then start up and turn off at 30, 50 or what ever pressure. It was not consistent at all with the off and on psi settings. Many times it would just shut off and no head pressure release. It would try a restart and stall.
I purchased a new pressure switch. No change. Was told it was possibly the capacitors. Changed them. By now the repair cost was getting to the point of "you got to be kidding"
It now sits in the garage while I decide to toss or use as a boat anchor, oil removed first of course?
A Hitachi repair shop here had numerous ones in the shop with the same problem. I was told they had no idea or solution for it.
Oil was changed religiously.
I noticed that at Home Depot it wasn't available awhile back. Now it is being offered again.
Does anyone know if the "problem" was fixed or not.
This has to be a PR nightmare for Hitachi.
I got this as a package with the nail gun.
One thing that got me really upset was when the using it and doing finish brad finish nailing, pressure had dropped and not restarted. Had to replace the trim piece.
Any ideas?
I would suspect the problem to be the start capacitor. The capacitor gives the motor a brief jolt of power to start it turning. The capacitor is part #881-515 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
not running Question by shawn 09/03/2009
The compressor just didn't run when i plugged it in. I changed out the pressure switch to no avail. What else could it be?
I would check the the start capacitor. The capacitor gives the motor a brief jolt of power to start it turning. The capacitor is part #881-515 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
Hard start Question by Darrin 08/31/2009
What do i need to replace if the compressor has a hard time starting? It hums when the pressure drops and tries to recycle.
I can think of many problems that could cause what you are experiencing.
Are your using a long, small gauge extension cord? Too long and too small of a cord will starve a motor of the power it needs to run properly.
Check the oil level. If the oil is too low the piston can seize to the cylinder. Too much oil can cause excessive pressure in the cylinder, stopping the motor.
There could be a bad bearing. A seized bearing can cause enough resistance to stop the motor.
There are a couple of capacitors on the motor. At least one of them will be used to help start the motor. A motor shop can test them to see if they are both working properly.
Those are the most likely causes. You will need to do some testing to figure out which is causing your problem.
I hope this helps with your repair!
-Mark
Ec-12 Question by Brandon 08/24/2009
I need to get a new pressure switch for my compressor and I have the turn switch and not the push button one. Can I still get the switch one? Also this is the only problem with this compressor that I have ever had...besides not starting very well in the cold. I had the screws in the pressure switch go bad and they arched together...hence the reason why I need a new one. Thanks
Brandon
The pressure switch is one part that the manufacture purchases from a 3rd party. Because of this you will see different looking switches on the same model of compressor. As long as you have verified the model number of your compressor when you looked up this breakdown you should get the proper switch. For the model EC12 compressor the pressure switch is part #882-609 and is available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
Thanks!
-Mark
pressure release Question by MJ 08/12/2009
It cuts off at 120psi, but the small pressure sensing valve on the back of the pressure switch immediately opens causing the tank to leak down. The small line coming from the non return valve plugs into the back of the pressure switch. Is this a pressure switch problem, or is the non return valve causing this?
Hi MJ, If I understand correctly the safety valve, item #64 on the parts diagram, is opening at 120lbs and not shutting until the tank is drained. If that is the case you most likely have a bad safety valve, part #881-493 which is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com. The non-return valve is basically a check valve that prohibits the flow of air from the tank back to the cylinder. I hope this helps! -Mark
Response #2 Posted By PeterB26 09/15/2009
I am having the same problem with mine. It IS NOT the saftey valve, item #64, though it is acting like one. The offending part is not shown on either the http://ereplacementparts.com parts diagram or the original literature that I still have for my compressor.
It is located at the back of the pressure switch and looks like a skinny brass cylinder. The black tube brings high pressure air over from the non-return valve and enters the back of the pressure switch through this gizmo.
Is it part of the pressure switch assembly or a separate part? I don't know... but it definitely doesn't show up as part of the "tube," Item #52, p/n 881-675
Did you solve this riddle, MJ? Anyone?
Thanks
PeterB26
Response #3 Posted By Jim 09/19/2009
PeterB26 is correct. The part that is causing the problem is a compressor pressure relief valve. is it sown on the Hitachi web site part breakdown.
I am having the same problem.
Response #4 Posted By kyle 09/25/2009
That piece you are talking about comes on the new pressure switch however I have the same problem so I replaced the pressure switch and it made no difference at all its still doing the same thing.
Response #5 Posted By DS 11/16/2009
Well I have the same problem and found the diagram on the Canadian Hitachi site shows the part at the end of the hose but they call it a "joint" well it is more than a joint, it has a hole in it and as soon as the compressor fills it trips something that lets the air out the "joint". I have searched the internet and seen many people with the same problem but no real solutions... ANCHOR!
Review by JVC 07/15/2009
With next to no hrs. on this machine the non return valve caused the machine to go in for repairs. The same problem has returned soon after the repair. The repair shop was listed as a qualified Hatichi repair outlet. This defect renders the machine useless.
Everyone that i know that owns one of these has the same problems in less than a year. It will either try to run, run real slow, then stop with a hiss; or will run well then stop at random pressures. I took mine to a factory service guy here and he said it worked fine for him, but I plug it in and on the 2nd or 3rd fill up it shuts down. One good friend of mine got his fixed and it happened again, he asked me if i wanted it and laughed at me for taking mine in. I would not buy one unless you know a service guy really well. Also the guys that posted before with good reviews are very lucky in my opinion
this compressor is a die hard I ran it out of oil I spelt it get hot and shut down I put oil it and ten minutes later I was back in business with no damage done to this little work horse .
