Als there is a slight odor comig from the vent end of the motor. Kind of a wax smell.

Looks like the field got to warm when the armature went bad so it is weak. Sears sells a replacement so I ordered one from them and hopefully this will fix my low RPM issue. I'll have roughly 280.00 in the saw in new parts so that is better than 500.00 for a new one. It should be good to go for many more years now. Thanks -Weav

Hello Jonias,

There should be two screws, part number 330019-19 that attach the field to the field case. Once you have them out you can tap on the field case edge with a mallet and the field should start to slide out of the case. In some cases the field has become hot enough to melt the field case. Causing it to become almost welded to the field case. If this has happened you will have to replace the field case also.

-WJA

Hi'
That is a locking can for your saw's Throat Plate.Its attached to the throat plate and you turn a screw on top of the throat plate and it locks the throat plate down and prevents the throat plate from lifting up while cutting wood.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hello cntrtr27675,

To me I would probably spend the extra $100.00 for the refurbished saw. As for the extensions I am pretty sure they will fit on the newer saw. To make sure take one off the old saw to see if it lines up with new one. I wish I could give you a better answer on that.
I would also ask them what type of warranty comes with the saw.

-WJA

Thanks you WJA!!!! The new/refurbished saw it is!!! I had gotten some great advise from Tinker on repair but we needed the saw before I found the time!!! Thanks again, Cntrtr27675

Hi mile_A,
sounds like you have a bad armature.You will need to take it out and to a motor shop and have it tested.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hi cntrt27675,
Most likely the rattle is coming from the armature where the armature fan is loose on the armature.As the armature spins up and down the fan is rattling. Normally if the height adjustment is hard to turn the problem is located in the screw height adjustment binding in the follower nut.Over time dirt ,rust and sawdust builds up in this assembly and in some cases you'll have to remove the assembly and clean and wire brush it to ever get back to being smooth again.
I sorry I can't give you more exact information on the problem but might give you a area to start in. Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hi Tinker,
Thanks for the response! I will take a closer look at the follower nut and cleaning it more than just lubricating it! What am I looking at to repair the rattle? The armature is $92.50 on this site, does that need to be replaced or is it possible the fasten or tighten the fan?
Thanks,
Cntrtr27675

Hi cntrtr27675,
Well the fan is not sold separately so the whole armature assembly would have to be replaced.But disassemble it any way to see for sure.it just might be something.Good luck.
Tinker

Hello acpeters21,

I don't see where the complete motor assembly is available for purchase. You might try to disassemble the motor and see what parts are damaged and order the part parts that are needed.

Good luck,
WJA

Hi station171,
The armature is not pressed into the gear housing. The armature is held in by a I.D. o-ring inside the gear case.This o-ring does two things .One it prevents gear grease from leaking into the motor housing and two it acts as a dampener.The armature can at times be difficult to remove.The best way is to take a rag and protect the armature with it. grasp the armature and while pulling make small circular motion and this will free the grip of o-ring from the bearing and allow you to pull it free. When reassembling you should replace the o-ring and lightly coat it with grease. Hope this helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Hi Adriano,
We need to know what type number your saw is ,as there were a number of service bulletins on this saw.The correct type number will allow us to help fix your problem.Thanks.
Tinker

Thanks for the response Tinker,
The Saw is a DW744 GB Type 2.
The replacement parts I bought are
DW744-2 SLEEVE 137382-00
DW744-2 FIELDCASE 389786-02
DW744-2 BEARING 330003-09
Hope this helps and thanks again

Adriano

Adriano, I don't see a dw744 GB in the system are you sure its not a SB?

Hi Tinker,
The plate on the front of the unit has the model number on it and it says DW744-GB Type 2.
Can take a picture of it for you but not sure if I can upload it to this site.
I am in the UK and it's a 240volt machine.
Don't know if that helps.
Cheers Adriano

Maybe the GB simply refers to it being for the UK marketplace?
Which would just make it a DW744 Type 2?

Adriano,
I can't find your model but the parts numbers you have match Dw744 type 2.It seems to me Dewalt made a field service upgraded.That is that if you replaced the armature they sent you the armature,bearings and a new housing.They went with a smaller rear armature bearing.I think what happened is that you have the new housing and your trying to put it on the old armature.the best thing is to call your Dewalt authorized service center and explain what happened and see if they can tell you what to do.Sorry i couldn't be more helpful but they don't give us service info on the UK saws.good luck.
Tinker

Thanks for the help Tinker,

Regards
Adriano

Hi gawlik729;

Without seeing the saw my guess would be you spun an armature bearing.once the bearing locks up it will try to spin in the plastic housing and some times causes smoking.Then as the motor is lock up it will throw the breaker. Can you rotate the saw blade smoothly?

Hello rhill,

I am guessing that your saw is either a DW744 or DW745. If you have continuity from the cord plug to the motor. Pull the brushes again and inspect the armature to make sure the commutator is not discolored or any of the bars are missing or raised higher than the others. Also check the brush holders, make sure there isn't any debris in them not letting the brushes make contact with the armature. You can also inspect the field connections to the motor cable.

Good luck,
WJA

you will need to use a hydraulic press to take it off and to put a new one on

Hello Gary,

To help you with your repair here are a couple of links that I hope will answer your question.

How to Remove a Dewalt Fan End Armature Bearing.

How to Remove an Armature Bearing with a Vise

Hope this helps,
WJA

First, check your blade to see if it's bent. Try another blade, then check your bearing by unplugging your saw and take off the blade and try to pull up and down on the shaft. If it moves it's the bearing, not a hard fix. Good luck

yes, the bearing

do not use a piece of wood. your saw came with 2 wrenches. unplug your saw. stand in front of the saw (side with switch and adjustments). Raise blade to top. Remove tung (yellow insert). slip open wrench on the shaft then place box wrench on the nut and pull toward you. This would be counter clockwise.

Unplug your saw and take off the cover around the blade. Hold a piece of wood in the saw blade and try turning the nut; it may be a left hand thread, so try both ways. Good luck; I hope this helps.

I need the whole motor assembly for my table saw. what will the cost be for this?

The manufacture does not offer the motor as a complete assembly for this saw. The parts are sold individually.

Thanks,

-UtahAV
-Mark

I not sure how old your saw is but it sounds like your gear reduction is whats causing the problem.Under normal conditions the armature gear which is cut into the armature shaft and the arbor gear should be replaced as a set.If they are not replaced as a set you take the risk if having one worn gear and one new gear riding on each other and causing a whining sound. I'm curious as to why you replaced the armature and field when the bearing was bad.Where they damaged?

Thanks for the reply.......The saw is about 5-7 yrs old in great shape but motor started making a grinding noise so took it apart to find the rear bearing seized and housing damaged also.I never replaced the field it looked fine and the other gears looked to be in good shape also i really like the saw as my back up and am into it for 90.00 so far what other parts should i get to make sure they mesh the proper way?

The part number is # 153476-04.That's assuming That's the problem. Normally we would put the saw on what's called a "Short Stop" and check its amp draw to see if there might be something binding but you said that you double checked how it was reassembled so that would be my guess as to the problem.Hope that helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Thanks for the info i hope this fixes it the part isnt cheap its 78.00 i believe but i feel the saw is worth fixing .Getting back to your comment on the short stop what exactly is that and what symptoms would i look for if it was something else besides this gear.After i put this part in the motor will be virtually new except the field.I replaced the plug also and it plugs in both ways instead of having one large prong they r equal does that matter and are the brushes suppose to touch the armature when the are put in ??

The short stop does a couple of things. It tests products for short circuits, continuity of the ground wire, hi-pot, leakage current and current draw.As a rule of thumb AC motors should draw about 1/2 their amp rating when free spinning and a little more if they have a gear reduction.

Hi David, What do you mean by "lump" at both ends of the motor field -- There is a cap on the blade end of the motor that comes off and at the other end (where the brushes are) the cap comes off and pull the brushes up from the armature and the armature should pull out.. Frank

Hi Frank,
On the inner diameter of the field coil there is one lump per side. They are on the same half of the field coil. Please see pdf pix.
Thanks,
David

Hi David, The pic shows the end with the brushes - so the other end has the cooling fan on the armature - right.... The armature will not come out for the other end because of the field plates either !! The armature does not touch the field plates when it is running-- if it is stuck against the field plates now ... it has been overheated at some time or other. Why do you think the armature is bad !! Frank:cool:

Frank,
The motor makes a racket when it is running. The bearings are tight and rotate smoothly. The commutator sparks like crazy and some of them are warped and burnt.
David

I have seen this several times. your field has gotten hot and the plastic bubbled out. you will have to force the armature out. then check your field with an ohm meter. each coil should have the same ohms. That will tell you if they got to hot and shorted somewhere in the coil.

Thanks Dale. I'll check it out.

Hi David, It's me again..... I just found out that there has been a recall on these saws with the year 2007 in the serial no.---- I think from 30-50. You might want to check... Frank

To Dale,

Sorry for the delay. The ohm reading across both the top and bottom field coils are zero. My meter is not very precise. Any idea what the resistance should be?

To Frank,

Sorry for the delay. The text on both the front and back plates are in good condition. Where did they put the serial number?

Thanks,
David

Hi, I was using dado blades on my table saw and accidently stripped the threads on the bolt and arbor nut that holds the blade(s) on. I ordered a replacement arbor nut, hoping that I will be able to get past the bad threads on the bolt. If this doesn't work, will I have to order the entire Armature and Bearings (part 66)? If I send the saw in to a repair shop, how much should I expect to pay for the repair. Is this a repair that I could do on my own? How difficult is it?

Must be a bad batch of tablesaw motors!

Hi Dirty, you said that you had power to the motor ..... Have you checked the fields? I have one that the fields burnt up in.... ya a bad batch of table saw motors !!!

Well the mystery is solved and the motor runs.
Going back together, I had voltage up to the point of clipping in the Brush Housing.

Peeking inside, one of the mail spades on one of the Brush Housing did not go into the female fitting, but rather "slipped off" to the side without making contact even though the Housing clipped fully into place.

When I pulled out the brush housing the spade "sprang back" and you could not tell by inspection that it was bent. Probably happened when they installed the new Brush Housings and I repeated it during my first reassembly.

Thanks to all who looked at the post with the thought of offering help or learning something. I learned some valuable lessons about Root Causes.........School is now out of session! Back to the To Do List.

This is a great site, I'll be back.

:confused:WHAT MAKES YOU THINK YOU NEED A NEW MOTOR?

I am kind of in the same situation but for a DW744 type 3 but don't think I need a whole motor. I opened up the motor housing and noticed one of the brush holdings was burnt. If I replace this, is there a good chance my motor will start working again?

The table saw is in a remote area with very limited capapbility to do repair work. To repalce the entire motor would probably be easiest

[QUOTE=Dalco;1214]I need a new motor for a DW744X table saw. Can anybody tell me where and how to get a replacement motor?
Thanks"

Unfortunately there's no complete motor assembly available for the DW744X. The motor components have to be purchased individually. The main motor pieces are the armature, field, and brushes. It's nice because you can just order the burned out components, but if you want to be safe you can order all three.

To second what Terry P said, why do you suspect a bad motor? Did it make a burning smell during operation?

[QUOTE=Wager;1214]I opened up the motor housing and noticed one of the brush holdings was burnt. If I replace this, is there a good chance my motor will start working again?"

Possibly. Is that the only damaged piece in the saw? You might want to order a set of brushes along with the holder. If the brush holder burned then there's a very good chance that the brushes are bad too.

Thanks so much for your answers. I will forward this info and will be back with any addtional info
Thanks and talk to you again.

[QUOTE=Mike;1219]
Possibly. Is that the only damaged piece in the saw? You might want to order a set of brushes along with the holder. If the brush holder burned then there's a very good chance that the brushes are bad too."

Its the only damaged piece I can see. The brushes did look pretty worn down so I was planning on replacing the brush holder and both brushes and seeing if that did the trick.

Dalco - sorry for the slight thread hijack.

[QUOTE=Wager;1232]IThe brushes did look pretty worn down so I was planning on replacing the brush holder and both brushes and seeing if that did the trick."

That's definitely the most inexpensive way to check for other motor problems. If the brushes and new holder work out, you're good. If not, then there you'll probably have to start searching for larger problems.

Hey elche,
chances are the rear or commutator end bearing has seized causing the initial noise..the burning may be the hsg starting to melt around the bearing..ugh..You will need to address this as soon as possible..remove the rear motor hsg and inspect..if not too much damage you may be able to just replace the bearing and rubber boot or sleeve..worst case is replacement of the housing and a shorted or damaged armature..
you may also want to replace the front bearing..this may also be for the service center to perform..hope this is helpful..
Craig

Thanks Craig, it is the bearing at the back of the motor don't see any signs of anything melted so I will replace both bearings don't want to take any chances on the other one going bad just another dumb question, how do I remove the bearings?
Thanks again.

Hey,
The best way is to pull the bearings is with a OTC #1020 puller [brand]..you may be able to find one or something compatible at your friendly auto store..last resort is stopping into a local repair shop and having them pull it for you..no matter what you do be careful not to damage the armature or fan...[ there are other clever ways to remove but you real;ly have to be careful..]
take care..!
Craig

Craig, will this puller set , work?
Thanks again.
link removed Motors: New 14 Pc Gear Puller & Bearing Splitter Set HEAVY DUTY (item 360100921154 end time Oct-30-08 16:24:03 PDT)

nope,
just do a google search for a otc puller and you should have a few links come up..they range from about $28.00 to $48.00..but just check out what it looks like and you can probably get something close at an auto or hardware store..[hopefully around half the cost!]..
if you do have a local repair shop nearby it might be best just to have them pull them off..heck.. they might not even charge you..! hee..hee
Craig

I have a dw744 type 2 and the rear bearing on the end of the armature is shot can it be presseed out?????

Hey bandjhamil,
Better to pull off..
eReplacementparts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair has a OTC puller part # 1021 in stock..!
hope this helps..?
cmoorejack