Hi raynos,
Whats your type number as they use a couple of different switches in the type 1,2,3,4,5
Dw705's.
Tinker

The arbor style won't fit.. This one should

link removed/

IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE THE MOTOR GOING THE WRONG WAY.

this saw has been recalled? take to your Dewalt shop?

Sorry, DW705 type 1 has been recalled by Dewalt.. take to your nearest shop. or log on to link removed for more information...I read this on the Dewalt site? as I was looking for parts, I have type 6.

The black wires are on top on each side.

To adjust the crosscut angles vertical stroke. Put the saw in the 90 degree position then loosen the three screws that attach the detent scale to the base. Now take a very accurate combination square and put the blade flush with the fence and the base against the blade. now slide the handle right or left till the blade is square to the fence (no gaps between the square at the fence and the blade at the same time). Now tighten the middle screw on the detent scale plate, the the other two, and then finally set your plastic gauge to the 0 or 90 degree mark. To test your set up joint a board so you know it is perfectly straight on one edge. Put that edge against the fence of your saw and cut it in half. When making the cut, keep the blade below the board and don't lift it till the blade completely stops turning (you should practice this when making very accurate cuts). Put the two pieces end to end and they should show no gaps. Now turn one of them over on the other side and put them end to end. If there are no gaps you have a perfect cross cut. Now set your saw to 45 angle and repeat the last 3 steps, this will confirm that the saw is set perfectly. Hope I have helped you with your question.

Black power wire bottom right of switch, black wire to motor top right of switch, Yellow bottom left of switch, Red top left of switch...Switch is marked as right being motor voltage and left brake voltage. Wiring is as looking at Saw from front...

Hi Henry,

To have the armature and field tested you will need to take them to a repair shop. The shop will have specialized tools used just for testing armatures and fields. To test the armature windings and the field they use a tool that puts very high voltage but almost no current through the windings. This test will show open shorts in the windings. They will also use a tool that creates a magnetic field around the armature. It tests for a short on the commutator.

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

The next step is the brush holders. Remove springs and brushes. Next remove the end cap, remove the brush holder by gently prying up and inspect. If the metal prongs fall off it has burnt them off, this is usually what happens or they crack in the plastic. Replace holder.

Hi John,

I am not sure what the srt 520 is that you referred to. I can tell you how we remove the fan end armature bearing here in our shop. The issue that makes removing the bearing problematic is that there is not enough room between the bearing and the cooling fan to fit a traditional bearing puller. The method to remove the bearing that we have used with great success is to use a bearing seperator such as the one at the following link...

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bearing-separator-p-205782.html

and a two arm gear puller. The bearing separator is thin enough to slide in between the bearing and the fan. With the separator in place you can then attach a two post gear puller to the separator. The puller will lift the separator which in turn will pull the bearing. If you have access to an arbor press you could use it in place of the two jaw gear puller.

The armature bearing is part #330003-13 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

I was able to pop mine off by gently prying on each side with two screwdrivers. I kept working my way around the edges. Don't put too much pressure or you will destroy the bearing.

Hi Dave,

You will need to inspect the linkage that lifts the blade guard. Look for worn bushings or cracked housings. My guess is that either the guard link, item #59, is bent or that the torsion spring, item #49 is broken.

The guard link is part #146752-02 and the torsion spring is part #146748-00. Both are available from http://ereplacementparts.com.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

Look on the motor housing - lower the saw like you're making a cut - it will be on the black DeWalt label on the motor housing to the right of the blade / blade guard assembly. Mine says "DW705", and on a line below that "Type 6". Make sure and note the Type number. There are, albeit small, definitely changes between the types. Hopefully your label is not missing.

YOu need to change the armature,same time you open the saw body have a look at the field or coil.shud the windings be scorched you'll hav to change that too.

check the brush,if not that then it could be the field or the switch.look in the end where the cap is and look at the field and see if it looks burnt,melted or black.if so that mite be the problem

Hi Fox,

To really know if your armature and field are bad you will need to take them to a good repair shop for testing. A good shop will have invested in some very specialized equipment to test them. One of these tools puts out an extremely high amount of voltage but almost no current. It will show any shorts that might be in the windings. The second tool creates a magnetic field around the armature and will show shorts in the commutator.

You can take an impedance test of the field and get an indication of its condition. You should get the same reading (within an ohm or two) on both sides of the field. If the readings come out different from each other then the field is bad.

I hope this helps!

-UtahAV
-Mark

The most common problem when a blade has a wobble to it is usually the blade washers. If the saw has experenced a kickback while cutting or got jammed during a cut the blade washers are usually where the force will be absorbed. You won't be able to tell by looking at them, and it doesn't take much to damage them (especially when spinning a 12 " blade). But 99% of the time thats the reason for the wobble...

Terry - thanks for the tip. I had some good kickback recently when I hit an unseen heavy staple in a piece of lumber - perhaps that's the source of my problem. I'll start with the washers and see where it goes from there.

Again, thanks for the input.
- cjdwight

I use a Forester blade in combination with a 6" stiffner plate it helps eliminate
any kind of wobble and runout.
Sammy

Hi guys,I replaced inner & outer washers,I think it helped but the runout is still bad.The saw hasent been used much but I guess it only takes one bad cut [nail]. I can grab the bottom of the blade & move it left to right like the blade is loose.When I do this I think the inner washer moves slightly.Any help on my next step/part to replace would be apreciated.:

Have you tried to wiggle the actual shaft without the blade in it? Try to trace it back, you could have a loose shaft, or bearing that would loosen the action of your saw. Another thing to try is to make sure that your bolt that holds the blade/washers tight is actually going all the way in. Maybe a clogged hole, or damaged bolt? Good luck, and don't stop with the obvious, tools can be tricky...........

Thanks for the reply MUTHA! The problem seems to be with the inner washer to gear assy housing.You can rock the inner washer,since the washer is new I think the mating surface on the shaft housing is damaged even though it looks fine.

Hey Chris,
Its probably time for new armature bearings[# 10 and 39] and brush's..[you will need a bearing puller and or a bearing splitter to remove the bearings]
Hope this helps...:)
DeWALT DW705 Parts List and Diagram - Type 1 : eReplacementParts.com
cmoorejack

Hey Cliff,
If you have voltage going thru the switch and to the motor..the only things left are the brush's[make sure they are making contact] the brush holders [make sure they are pushed in all the way making contact with the field] and the field..it may have a burnt or broken connection..[assuming that the armature is ok] you can check the field on the ohm setting and check each coil winding ..
DeWALT DW705 Parts List and Diagram - Type 4 : eReplacementParts.com
hope this is helpful..
cmoorejack

Hey Jesse,
I just replied to the mickm post that you posted to..Its the field..ugh..it is the only component link removed on that post on how to check..:)
parts avail at eReplacementparts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair
cmoorejack

theres power on both sides of the field @ the brushes , how would i test the armature? maybe the guy i got it fron didnt replace it, the brushes i can see are brand new

Hey,
When you say power do you mean live voltage or ohm reading? If you have an ohm reading on the brush's from both sides of the armature it is probably ok..you can just check just the commutator bars also..you should have a reading all the way around.:)
I would start from scratch on this one and check the cord for live voltage..[sometimes you will get a ohm reading but live voltage will break down and not go link removed other words.if you only have a few strands of wire an ohm will read and say it is ok but the voltage wont make it thru only a few strands of wire in your cord..not enough of good wire..] This is also true with other components..a switch checks ok with an ohm but when you check it with live voltage it breaks down in the switch and wont come out the other side..:(
Anyhoo, if everything is checking out with your tool it should be running..dang it!
cmoorejack

Hey Sam,
The best thing to do is to use a test meter and make sure you have current or continuity in the cord..since you have already replaced the switch..we know that it is good..:)
If everything checks out ok from the cord and thu the switch..you will want to start trouble shooting from the motor end..With the meter..check to see if you have continuity from the brush's and the field to isolate the problem..sometimes the brush's will wear down enough to lose contact or a connection has come loose or broken off..
As far as the oil leaking out a little bit from the gear housing..sometimes that is just a typical result of the tool sitting for a long time..[the grease is breaking down and the oil is separating from the grease] It will mix back up once you get the saw running again or you can remove the cover and 'stir' it up..:)
hope this helps..
cmoorejack

Yeah, dude! Thanks for the advice. I traced the problem to a broken wire inside the motor housing. The thing works just fine. Now I'm off to measuring once and cutting twice. Thanks!