How to Diagnose a Bad Power Cord or Switch
This article outlines the basics of power tool and appliance electrical diagnosis. You can use a multimeter to test tool and appliance cords and switches, the two parts usually responsible for electri...
How to Adjust a Miter Saw
Miter saws often need their bevel angles and miter angles adjusted, and this article explains generalized steps to make these adjustments on most miter saws.
I'm in the middle of a repair on my saw that no longer works. I've checked the voltage and continuity of my cord and that which the switch is closed, current is making it's way through the switch. I also tested the continuity of the field, wire end to brush holder receptacle. I think one of the brush holders has a bad connection. I can tell if I broke the connection to the holder when I removed the holder or not...needless to say I have ordered two more holder kits (with new brushes). Now to the question. When I replaced the field and bolted back up to the handle...(brush holders still not installed)... now the saw blade does not spin... Is this because I don't have the brush holders and brushes installed yet? The blade used to spin freely by hand before I started tinkering. Just want to make sure I don't have something installed backward or mis-alligned, plug in my brushes and ten smoke the thing. Thanks!
The first thing is to check that the armature bearings are seated correctly.To do this lightly loosen the four case screws and see if the armature spins freely.If so then check the rubber seat that goes over the outer armature bearing and make sure its on the bearing before installing the armature(Don't put the rubber sleeve in the case first as the armature bearing can distort the sleeve binding the armature bearing).Next as you evenly tighten the motor case in crisscross pattern lightly tap with a rawhide mallet the end of the armature case to seat the bearings. Hope this helps.Good luck.
I'm new here, power tool repair isn't my specialty, so go easy on me! LOL.
I offered to take a look at my brother (Jim's) tools that aren't working properly, he handed me two drills, a miter saw and a table saw. The Dewalt miter saw DW705 is the subject of my question. Jim told me the switch was bad, he replaced the switch with something he thought would work. When he plugged it in, it belched a puff of white smoke which alerted him to unplug it.
I ordered a replacement switch kit, it came with a different switch and clam shell. I had no problem with the wiring changes the new kit required. I plugged it in, the saw works but the brake doesn't work, it "free wheels" to a stop when the trigger is released.
I suspect the brake field and the run field were energized simultanously and smoked the break field with the wrong switch he tried to install. I also suspect this isn't a very common occurance seen by repair shops. My question, Is my theory plausible. If the saw works to make a cut, but the brake fails to stop the blade when the switch is released, what are my options to repair it?
Hope this made sense!
For quite a while Dewalt did not have a replacement switch for the original switch they discontinued. They have now come out with a new switch kit for your saw. The problem is that it is on a back order with no delivery date. So keep checking back with us every so often and check our stock. Or you could place one on order and as soon as they come in we will send it to you. It is part number 5140112-17.
My trusty Dewalt 705 has developed a wobble as I do any cutting, not bad but about 1/32 of an inch. It's not the wood sliding (clamps and sandpaper). What troubleshooting would you recommend for this problem?
If I understand it right it sounds as if your saw is out of alignment. We have an article and video that I hope will help you with this problem. In it we are using a DW708 miter saw. But it should give you some help with your DW705. Here is the link to it.
I have searched this forum and could not find any discussion of how to remove the armature assembly from a DW705 miter saw. I found topics describing how to remove the bearing from the shaft once the whole unit is out - but how does one get the assembly (with bearing) out of the gearbox housing in the first place. I would guess it is just a press fit and must be punched out from the gear side? But wonder if someone can confirm this. Thanks for any ideas.
HOPING SOMEONE OUT THERE W/HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE CAN CLUE ME IN ON HOW TO SEPARATE/REMOVE MOTOR HOUSING END CAPS IN ORDER TO REPLACE ARMATURE ON A ABUSED DW705. WAS A CABINET SHOP SAW THAT WAS GIVEN TO ME. EVIDENTLY THESE FELLOWS NEVER CLEAN/BLOW OUT SAWDUST FROM MOTORS & ARMATURE (BRUSH SURFACE)IS DISHED/NO LONGER FLAT/TOAST.
I tried to change a switch and it will not start; it started smoking. I have a dw705 type 1 miter saw. Does anyone know the schematic of where these wires hook to the switch or the web site where I can find it? I do not know how I could have switched them.
I just bought this saw used and replaced the blade with a DW 80 tooth. When I activate the sas I get a very high pitched whir until the blade catches up to the motor speed. Again when I release the switch it whirs until the blade stops. This is not the usual motor sound. Any ideas?
I have a compound miter saw mod. TW705 type 6. It started making a grinding noise, like the brake was going bad. I separated the motor from the unit and found the worm gear on the armature totally chipped off. The mating gear in the brake housing seems to be OK. Was there a problem with this armature shaft? It Doesn't seem that it should have torn up inside a gear box with minimal use.
How do I disassemble the table of my DW705-04 to have access to the Miter pointer? All assembly screws are "Star-slotted" and should require Star bits for removing the screws. Does Dewalt sell these Star bit removal tools?
To adjust the crosscut angles vertical stroke. Put the saw in the 90 degree position then loosen the three screws that attach the detent scale to the base. Now take a very accurate combination square and put the blade flush with the fence and the base against the blade. now slide the handle right or left till the blade is square to the fence (no gaps between the square at the fence and the blade at the same time). Now tighten the middle screw on the detent scale plate, the the other two, and then finally set your plastic gauge to the 0 or 90 degree mark. To test your set up joint a board so you know it is perfectly straight on one edge. Put that edge against the fence of your saw and cut it in half. When making the cut, keep the blade below the board and don't lift it till the blade completely stops turning (you should practice this when making very accurate cuts). Put the two pieces end to end and they should show no gaps. Now turn one of them over on the other side and put them end to end. If there are no gaps you have a perfect cross cut. Now set your saw to 45 angle and repeat the last 3 steps, this will confirm that the saw is set perfectly. Hope I have helped you with your question.
Black power wire bottom right of switch, black wire to motor top right of switch, Yellow bottom left of switch, Red top left of switch...Switch is marked as right being motor voltage and left brake voltage. Wiring is as looking at Saw from front...
I have a 12" DeWalt miter saw a DW705 type 1 I have everything but the guard for it. What all parts will I need to replace it? Thanks to anyone that can help. Please email me at link removed Thanks again.
To have the armature and field tested you will need to take them to a repair shop. The shop will have specialized tools used just for testing armatures and fields. To test the armature windings and the field they use a tool that puts very high voltage but almost no current through the windings. This test will show open shorts in the windings. They will also use a tool that creates a magnetic field around the armature. It tests for a short on the commutator.
I have a DeWalt DW705 12" miter saw. Nothing happens when I squeeze the trigger. There is power to the trigger. The trigger tests fine. The brushes are in fine shape. What is the next trouble shooting step?
The next step is the brush holders. Remove springs and brushes. Next remove the end cap, remove the brush holder by gently prying up and inspect. If the metal prongs fall off it has burnt them off, this is usually what happens or they crack in the plastic. Replace holder.
I have a DW705 Type 5 the bearing (part 10) blew up and I need to replace it in order to do so it says I need srt 520 to remove it, I am assuming it is a gear puller but i have no idea where i can find it so that I can pull it off without damaging the armature or motor.
I am not sure what the srt 520 is that you referred to. I can tell you how we remove the fan end armature bearing here in our shop. The issue that makes removing the bearing problematic is that there is not enough room between the bearing and the cooling fan to fit a traditional bearing puller. The method to remove the bearing that we have used with great success is to use a bearing seperator such as the one at the following link...
and a two arm gear puller. The bearing separator is thin enough to slide in between the bearing and the fan. With the separator in place you can then attach a two post gear puller to the separator. The puller will lift the separator which in turn will pull the bearing. If you have access to an arbor press you could use it in place of the two jaw gear puller.
The armature bearing is part #330003-13 and is available from http://www.ereplacementparts.com.
Good luck with your repair!
I was able to pop mine off by gently prying on each side with two screwdrivers. I kept working my way around the edges. Don't put too much pressure or you will destroy the bearing.
You will need to inspect the linkage that lifts the blade guard. Look for worn bushings or cracked housings. My guess is that either the guard link, item #59, is bent or that the torsion spring, item #49 is broken.
The guard link is part #146752-02 and the torsion spring is part #146748-00. Both are available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
Look on the motor housing - lower the saw like you're making a cut - it will be on the black DeWalt label on the motor housing to the right of the blade / blade guard assembly. Mine says "DW705", and on a line below that "Type 6". Make sure and note the Type number. There are, albeit small, definitely changes between the types. Hopefully your label is not missing.
The saw quite me. I have replaced switch, and brushes. I have now taken it apart and tested armature field for continuity. On 3 of the four wires going into the field test true at the brush connection. I am placing on probe of meter where wires from swith connect and the other end where the brushes plug in. If this is proper testing of field for continutiy. if one is not testing true does this mean the armature field is bad? Any help is appreciated. Fox
To really know if your armature and field are bad you will need to take them to a good repair shop for testing. A good shop will have invested in some very specialized equipment to test them. One of these tools puts out an extremely high amount of voltage but almost no current. It will show any shorts that might be in the windings. The second tool creates a magnetic field around the armature and will show shorts in the commutator.
You can take an impedance test of the field and get an indication of its condition. You should get the same reading (within an ohm or two) on both sides of the field. If the readings come out different from each other then the field is bad.
I have a Dewalt 705 Type 3 Miter saw. I would have to pull the trigger multiple times to get it to start. When I replaced the switch and plugged it in to test, the motor smoked and would not run. I took the motor apart and the field part has burnt wires (winding) on one side of the field. Is it worth replacing the field(approx. $50) or is it a lost cause and time to get a new saw? Thanks.
I think I would do it. The DW705 was about a $325.00 saw. My only concern is that there could be other problems. I think I would have a shop test both the armature armature and the field. If the armature were also bad then you might have to think twice before going forward with the repair.
Hello, experts. I have a DW705 (type 4) that has been a reliable workhorse. Recently I noticed that the blade has a distinct wobble, and when the saw is stopped, I can move the blade back and forth about 1/16". The net affect is that this leads to tear out on cuts, even with a sharp 60 tooth blade.
Looking at other posts, sounds like culprits could be spindle, blade washer, and/or bearings. Any insight on where to start would be appreciated. This has been a great saw, and I'd like to keep using it.
The most common problem when a blade has a wobble to it is usually the blade washers. If the saw has experenced a kickback while cutting or got jammed during a cut the blade washers are usually where the force will be absorbed. You won't be able to tell by looking at them, and it doesn't take much to damage them (especially when spinning a 12 " blade). But 99% of the time thats the reason for the wobble...
Reply: Dewalt DW705 Type 4 - Blade Wobb...
Terry - thanks for the tip. I had some good kickback recently when I hit an unseen heavy staple in a piece of lumber - perhaps that's the source of my problem. I'll start with the washers and see where it goes from there.
Again, thanks for the input.
Reply: Dewalt DW705 Type 4 - Blade Wobb...
I use a Forester blade in combination with a 6" stiffner plate it helps eliminate
any kind of wobble and runout.
Reply: Dewalt DW705 Type 4 - Blade Wobb...
Hi guys,I replaced inner & outer washers,I think it helped but the runout is still bad.The saw hasent been used much but I guess it only takes one bad cut [nail]. I can grab the bottom of the blade & move it left to right like the blade is loose.When I do this I think the inner washer moves slightly.Any help on my next step/part to replace would be apreciated.:
Reply: Dewalt DW705 Type 4 - Blade Wobb...
Have you tried to wiggle the actual shaft without the blade in it? Try to trace it back, you could have a loose shaft, or bearing that would loosen the action of your saw. Another thing to try is to make sure that your bolt that holds the blade/washers tight is actually going all the way in. Maybe a clogged hole, or damaged bolt? Good luck, and don't stop with the obvious, tools can be tricky...........
Reply: Dewalt DW705 Type 4 - Blade Wobb...
Thanks for the reply MUTHA! The problem seems to be with the inner washer to gear assy housing.You can rock the inner washer,since the washer is new I think the mating surface on the shaft housing is damaged even though it looks fine.
Does anyone have parts from a broken Dewalt saw they want to get rid of? I need an armature or a field - it ain't worth fixin if I have to spend over 100 at Dewalt. I can pay for shipping and send you some cash if it works. Thanks, Dave
I've inherited a Dewalt miter saw (dw705 type 1) that I've had to repair the handle due to the internal switch breaking loose from it's threads (she's got many hours on her) but need a little help with the motor. Seems it takes a while to get up to speed and slow's down more than normal while making cuts. Is there anything I can do to refresh the motor?
I've replaced the field and believe i put all wires back to their original locations, however the saw still does not want to start well and smokes some. Can someone help with a wiring diagram so I can ensure that I put all wires back properly, or does someone have an actual repair wiring diagram for this unit (type 4)
I have DeWalt chop saw model 205 type 4. The saw stopped working so I checked the power supply. Power is to the handle switch and to the motor. However, it still will not work. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks for the help.
If you have voltage going thru the switch and to the motor..the only things left are the brush's[make sure they are making contact] the brush holders [make sure they are pushed in all the way making contact with the field] and the field..it may have a burnt or broken connection..[assuming that the armature is ok] you can check the field on the ohm setting and check each coil winding .. DeWALT DW705 Parts List and Diagram - Type 4 : eReplacementParts.com
hope this is helpful..
hi i have a dewalt 705 basically it dont work, brushes and armature have been replaced, im getting power on both sides of the trigger and its showing power to the brushes where else should i look or what should i do?
theres power on both sides of the field @ the brushes , how would i test the armature? maybe the guy i got it fron didnt replace it, the brushes i can see are brand new
Reply: Another Dewalt 705
When you say power do you mean live voltage or ohm reading? If you have an ohm reading on the brush's from both sides of the armature it is probably ok..you can just check just the commutator bars also..you should have a reading all the way around.:)
I would start from scratch on this one and check the cord for live voltage..[sometimes you will get a ohm reading but live voltage will break down and not go link removed other words.if you only have a few strands of wire an ohm will read and say it is ok but the voltage wont make it thru only a few strands of wire in your cord..not enough of good wire..] This is also true with other components..a switch checks ok with an ohm but when you check it with live voltage it breaks down in the switch and wont come out the other side..:(
Anyhoo, if everything is checking out with your tool it should be running..dang it!
I inherited a DeWalt DW 705 compound miter saw. It doesn't work. Go figure. I replaced the switch in the handle, still not working. I jumped the wires effectively bypassing the switch, which I should have done first, no sparks, no life, nothing. Aren't these things bulletproof? It doesn't look like it was worked that hard, although it has been sitting for a couple of years. Upon further inspection, it seems there is a small bit of oil where the motor and blade housing meet. Even if it seized up, wouldn't there at least be a motor humm? Is it junk? What should I be looking for? Any thoughts/suggestions?. Thanks for the help.
The best thing to do is to use a test meter and make sure you have current or continuity in the cord..since you have already replaced the switch..we know that it is good..:)
If everything checks out ok from the cord and thu the switch..you will want to start trouble shooting from the motor end..With the meter..check to see if you have continuity from the brush's and the field to isolate the problem..sometimes the brush's will wear down enough to lose contact or a connection has come loose or broken off..
As far as the oil leaking out a little bit from the gear housing..sometimes that is just a typical result of the tool sitting for a long time..[the grease is breaking down and the oil is separating from the grease] It will mix back up once you get the saw running again or you can remove the cover and 'stir' it up..:)
hope this helps..
Reply: DeWalt DW705 Won't Start
Yeah, dude! Thanks for the advice. I traced the problem to a broken wire inside the motor housing. The thing works just fine. Now I'm off to measuring once and cutting twice. Thanks!
I have a dw705 that has a stripped stud (101 on the parts list - the threads are damaged in the table 88 in the parts list). I would like to heli-coil the table so I can re-install the stud - are the threads in the table 3/8-16 or M10X1 (or something else). Any other thoughts on repairs would be appreciated
If you can get your hands on a plastic thread gauge you can gauge your stud and then match up the appropriate heli-coil ..a local hardware store should be able to help you out if you bring in the stud and they can configure it out...:)
hope this is helpful..?
I have an older dw705 (type 3). About a year ago, the blade began to wobble up and down. I took the blade off, inspected the blade adapter ring. It showed signs of wear. I replaced it and soon after, the blade began to wobble up and down again. I purchased a new blade and replaced the blade adapter ring again. About a month later, sure enough, the wobble returns. Now, the up and down wobble of the saw creates enough vibration to loosen the bolt holding the blade on. I guess its time to find the real problem. I'm pretty sure the wobble is not caused by the blade adapter ring or the saw blade. Ive been told that the bearings can go out. Could this be my problem? I hope so because that would be an cheap fix compared to a spindle. But, I also know, on a drill press, a wobble is caused by a warped spindle. Before I buy any parts, or a new saw, I thought I would consult the experts.
What you we think guys? Bearing, spindle or something else... Give me some wisdom.
Most of the time it is a bad inner blade link removed wears out over time [usually from over tightening of the blade] it wears a groove on the side that rests on the spindle and sometimes the spindle will get grooved on the shoulder..you may need to replace both but check the washer first..:)
parts avail at ereplacementparts.com..
I was unable to find a wiring diagram but I do know that the new switch [black] comes with the wiring diagram on the back of the switch..[it is wired different from the old style white switch] You may be able to contact a Dewalt service center and they should be able to tell you over the phone..if you need to replace the switch [black with the wiring diagram] parts are available at ereplacementparts.com..
hope this helps..?
I have a dw 705 type 5 mitre saw that starts very rough for the first couple of seconds when the switch is depressed. Then, after the first couple of seconds, it runs normally. I have already replaced the field,armature, and brushes,thinking this was the problem. Does anyone know what else could be wrong?
You may have a loose gear on the spindle shaft...too much play between the gears due to wear...or possibly a blade that is out of round or balance..check the difference with and without the blade..you could also have a bearing ready to fail..
Hope this helps..?
Changing the brushes is really easy. You can buy them with the holders if you want. They just snap in. After you remove the end cap. Part # 147097-05 . They don't come as a set you will need two. As for the field. you will need to check it with an ohms meter. each coil should have the same ohms. For the starting problem. Could be cord, switch, brushes, armature or field. Thats the order i check them in. hope this helps.
I came across a great deal on a dewalt mitersaw(free) that the previous owner said had a few "problems". After inspection I found both brush holders broken at it's contact point . I've replaced the holders and brushes, and the saw now works, but has a large arc when you let off the trigger. the blade brake also does'nt seem to be working.
I don't want to spend a ton of money replacing posible problems(armature)when I could just use the the saw for parts for an older but still working model of the same saw I already own.
Any ideas of the problem and posible fix would be appreciated.
Here is an older post about a similar saw. It might not be the same problem, but it is a good place to start. Often a problem with the electric brake and arcing comes from a bad connection between the brushes and the armature.
This post has a picture of what a clean commutator should look like.
Reply: DeWalt 705 Miter Saw
hi i have a dewalt 705 basically it dont work, brushes and armature have been replaced, im getting power on both sides of the trigger and its showing power to the armature where else should i look or what should i do?
Reply: DeWalt 705 Miter Saw
The only component left is the field..check all the connections to see if if there is a problem..with an ohm meter you can check one side of the winding to the other end on both side of the field.[you will have to disconnect the wires first or remove the field completely and then check].no continuity...bad field
hope this helps?
My chop saw has developed a problem that I believe is a bad bearing. Once it spins up and you lower the blade to cut the blade will dis-engage after contacting the wood. After you release the power button, a loud grinding noise starts and continues until the blade comes to a stop. Anyone else have this happen. Is there a fix or should I sh@t can it and buy another.
That sure sounds like worn out gears to me. The gears could have stripped due to a bad bearing, so you should check your bearings, but either way I'll bet those gears will need replacement. Basically the gears are functional enough to spin up the blade but they're breaking loose when the saw comes under load. Here's a quick link to the DW705 type 5 parts diagram:
The two main gears on your DW705 are Fig #1 armature assembly and Fig #24 spindle and gear. It looks a little intimidating, but it's really not a tough repair. Those are pretty good miter saws and I think they're worth repairing, especially if you do the work yourself.
I just purchased a Dewalt miter saw model DW705 type 4 at a flea mkt. It has a brand new Dewalt 80 tooth blade and is in good shape. The manufacture date is 9709. Does anyone out there have or ever had this model Dewalt miter saw. I am new to this forum and I do a lot of handyman work for friends and for clients. I did not want to spend $300 for a new DW715 so when I found this I immediately bought it (paid $100).
If the saw runs and it is cutting true, I don't think you got hurt buying this saw. It was manufactured in '97 the way it looks, so depending how hard the tool was used it might need brushes. If it has a new 80 tooth blade in it, that alone is worth $85 if it is a decent blade. I hope this helps,
Over the weekend a gorilla (me) didn't take the time to read the fine print when trying to switch out the blade on my Dewalt DW705 mitre saw. I finally saw the light, but not before the head of the bolt was mangled from trying to turn it the wrong way. I'd like to order a replacement, but can't figure out the part number. Can anyone help? I know it's reverse thread, but I'm not sure of the exact size.
It's a bloody shame that Dewalt has stopped building this saw. It has been the most reliable and accurate miter saw I have ever owned. This thing has been to 8 years of cabinet installs and finishing jobs. I just hope that parts will be available for years to come. I love it.
I have had the 705 for more than 12 years. I have used it daily on my construction crew and cabinet shop since. This tool has taken a beating and never blinked. Just recently, it fell off the saw horses at work and the clamshell enclosure for the switch got damaged. It's been a great tool and i have many other Dewalt tools that i also love. I have the 3/8 electric drill, reciprocating saw, 71/4" skilsaw, 1/2" cordless drill, drywall cutout tool, 3X21 belt sander, 12" miter saw and twin tank heavy duty air compressor. The switches on the recip, 7 1/4 saw, and electric drill are the only parts i have ever replaced.
Reply: DeWALT - DW705
Almost all of my shop tools are DeWalt, and I've only had one fail (wasn't really its fault - hammer drills and water don't mix). They make the best cordless tools on the market IMHO. My 7 year old 705 works like new, and I've dragged it from plant to plant when I was working with industrial automation, fabricating equipment guards and safety systems - I've cut I don't know how many aluminum extrusions, vinyl and pvc products, even liqui-tite (I know you're not supposed to cut steel, but what are you gonna do - besides dull a nice 96 tooth Freud carbide blade - at 3 am when you can't find your hack saw and have to finish the job so the plant can start up at 6?) I have it set up in my home shop now, re-calibrated, and as I said, it works like new.
I have had this saw for probably 10 years or more. I always loved it. Lightweight compared to an old Craftsman 10" compound saw I used to have. This Dewalt has always performed flawlessly. Would not hesitate to purchase one like it.
This saw has been great. I think I have had it for 20 years, now it needs a switch. This is the only problem I have had. I have also purchased the De Walt 12 saw that has the motor mounted higherand more out of the way. This saw can cut a 45 deg angle on a vert 1 x6 both ways, the 705 can only cut it to the left.