It's a bloody shame that Dewalt has stopped building this saw. It has been the most reliable and accurate miter saw I have ever owned. This thing has been to 8 years of cabinet installs and finishing jobs. I just hope that parts will be available for years to come. I love it.
reassembling the safety guard Question by tim morton
Is there a trick to reassembling the metal spring guard to the saw blade guard? I am just struggling to tighten the screw and making everything feel stable.
I have a compound miter saw mod. TW705 type 6. It started making a grinding noise, like the brake was going bad. I separated the motor from the unit and found the worm gear on the armature totally chipped off. The mating gear in the brake housing seems to be OK. Was there a problem with this armature shaft? It Doesn't seem that it should have torn up inside a gear box with minimal use.
I added one of the Irwin lasers. It has eaten whatever centers the blade up. I am looking for the part number and name I need to buy to recenter the blade on the shaft.
How do I disassemble the table of my DW705-04 to have access to the Miter pointer? All assembly screws are "Star-slotted" and should require Star bits for removing the screws. Does Dewalt sell these Star bit removal tools?
To adjust the crosscut angles vertical stroke. Put the saw in the 90 degree position then loosen the three screws that attach the detent scale to the base. Now take a very accurate combination square and put the blade flush with the fence and the base against the blade. now slide the handle right or left till the blade is square to the fence (no gaps between the square at the fence and the blade at the same time). Now tighten the middle screw on the detent scale plate, the the other two, and then finally set your plastic gauge to the 0 or 90 degree mark. To test your set up joint a board so you know it is perfectly straight on one edge. Put that edge against the fence of your saw and cut it in half. When making the cut, keep the blade below the board and don't lift it till the blade completely stops turning (you should practice this when making very accurate cuts). Put the two pieces end to end and they should show no gaps. Now turn one of them over on the other side and put them end to end. If there are no gaps you have a perfect cross cut. Now set your saw to 45 angle and repeat the last 3 steps, this will confirm that the saw is set perfectly. Hope I have helped you with your question.
Won Question by Tim
I have a DW705 and replaced the switch. I am concerned that I have mis-wired it. Do you have a wiring diagram?
Black power wire bottom right of switch, black wire to motor top right of switch, Yellow bottom left of switch, Red top left of switch...Switch is marked as right being motor voltage and left brake voltage. Wiring is as looking at Saw from front...
dewalt 12" miter saw guard Question by kevin
I have a 12" DeWalt miter saw a DW705 type 1 I have everything but the guard for it. What all parts will I need to replace it? Thanks to anyone that can help. Please email me at redsox1980@yahoo.com Thanks again.
To have the armature and field tested you will need to take them to a repair shop. The shop will have specialized tools used just for testing armatures and fields. To test the armature windings and the field they use a tool that puts very high voltage but almost no current through the windings. This test will show open shorts in the windings. They will also use a tool that creates a magnetic field around the armature. It tests for a short on the commutator.
I hope this helps with your repair!
-Mark
How to troubleshoot a Dewalt miter saw. Question by Rich
I have a DeWalt DW705 12" miter saw. Nothing happens when I squeeze the trigger. There is power to the trigger. The trigger tests fine. The brushes are in fine shape. What is the next trouble shooting step?
The next step is the brush holders. Remove springs and brushes. Next remove the end cap, remove the brush holder by gently prying up and inspect. If the metal prongs fall off it has burnt them off, this is usually what happens or they crack in the plastic. Replace holder.
srt520 Question by john
I have a DW705 Type 5 the bearing (part 10) blew up and I need to replace it in order to do so it says I need srt 520 to remove it, I am assuming it is a gear puller but i have no idea where i can find it so that I can pull it off without damaging the armature or motor.
I am not sure what the srt 520 is that you referred to. I can tell you how we remove the fan end armature bearing here in our shop. The issue that makes removing the bearing problematic is that there is not enough room between the bearing and the cooling fan to fit a traditional bearing puller. The method to remove the bearing that we have used with great success is to use a bearing seperator such as the one at the following link...
and a two arm gear puller. The bearing separator is thin enough to slide in between the bearing and the fan. With the separator in place you can then attach a two post gear puller to the separator. The puller will lift the separator which in turn will pull the bearing. If you have access to an arbor press you could use it in place of the two jaw gear puller.
I was able to pop mine off by gently prying on each side with two screwdrivers. I kept working my way around the edges. Don't put too much pressure or you will destroy the bearing.
safety gaurd Question by Dave
When I lower the blade to cut the safety shield will not float up.
You will need to inspect the linkage that lifts the blade guard. Look for worn bushings or cracked housings. My guess is that either the guard link, item #59, is bent or that the torsion spring, item #49 is broken.
The guard link is part #146752-02 and the torsion spring is part #146748-00. Both are available from http://ereplacementparts.com.
Good luck with your repair!
-Mark
Chop saw brake Question by Jess
My dewalt chop saw with brake will not shut off. I replaced the trigger thinking that was the problem but I got the same results. Any suggestions?
where do you find the model number on the saw? I'm sure the switch I'm looking for is identical to the one in the pictures I have looked at, but I'm not sure if it's the right one.
Look on the motor housing - lower the saw like you're making a cut - it will be on the black DeWalt label on the motor housing to the right of the blade / blade guard assembly. Mine says "DW705", and on a line below that "Type 6". Make sure and note the Type number. There are, albeit small, definitely changes between the types. Hopefully your label is not missing.
Review by Gene k
Works great. very accurate. Finally had to replace switch.
I have had the 705 for more than 12 years. I have used it daily on my construction crew and cabinet shop since. This tool has taken a beating and never blinked. Just recently, it fell off the saw horses at work and the clamshell enclosure for the switch got damaged. It's been a great tool and i have many other Dewalt tools that i also love. I have the 3/8 electric drill, reciprocating saw, 71/4" skilsaw, 1/2" cordless drill, drywall cutout tool, 3X21 belt sander, 12" miter saw and twin tank heavy duty air compressor. The switches on the recip, 7 1/4 saw, and electric drill are the only parts i have ever replaced.
Response #2 Posted By Paul
Almost all of my shop tools are DeWalt, and I've only had one fail (wasn't really its fault - hammer drills and water don't mix). They make the best cordless tools on the market IMHO. My 7 year old 705 works like new, and I've dragged it from plant to plant when I was working with industrial automation, fabricating equipment guards and safety systems - I've cut I don't know how many aluminum extrusions, vinyl and pvc products, even liqui-tite (I know you're not supposed to cut steel, but what are you gonna do - besides dull a nice 96 tooth Freud carbide blade - at 3 am when you can't find your hack saw and have to finish the job so the plant can start up at 6?) I have it set up in my home shop now, re-calibrated, and as I said, it works like new.
Review by Scott C.
I have had this saw for probably 10 years or more. I always loved it. Lightweight compared to an old Craftsman 10" compound saw I used to have. This Dewalt has always performed flawlessly. Would not hesitate to purchase one like it.
This saw has been great. I think I have had it for 20 years, now it needs a switch. This is the only problem I have had. I have also purchased the De Walt 12 saw that has the motor mounted higher and more out of the way. This saw can cut a 45 deg angle on a vert 1 x6 both ways, the 705 can only cut it to the left.
I just purchased a Dewalt miter saw model DW705 type 4 at a flea mkt. It has a brand new Dewalt 80 tooth blade and is in good shape. The manufacture date is 9709. Does anyone out there have or ever had this model Dewalt miter saw. I am new to this forum and I do a lot of handyman work for friends and for clients. I did not want to spend $300 for a new DW715 so when I found this I immediately bought it (paid $100)....
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I have a dewalt dw 705 12" compound miter saw type 3
the saw still works but it seems to have about half the power that it used to and bogs down on any heavy cuts. The brushes seem to be good....
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I think the brake is bad on my DeWalt DW705 type 5 chop saw. How exactly does the brake work, and when it goes bad, what needs to be replaced?...
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Hello, experts. I have a DW705 (type 4) that has been a reliable workhorse. Recently I noticed that the blade has a distinct wobble, and when the saw is stopped, I can move the blade back and forth about 1/16". The net affect is that this leads to tear out on cuts, even with a sharp 60 tooth blade.
Looking at other posts, sounds like culprits could be spindle, blade washer, and/or bearings. Any insight on where to start would be appreciated. This has been a great saw, and I'd like to keep using it....
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The saw quite me. I have replaced switch, and brushes. I have now taken it apart and tested armature field for continuity. On 3 of the four wires going into the field test true at the brush connection. I am placing on probe of meter where wires from swith connect and the other end where the brushes plug in. If this is proper testing of field for continutiy. if one is not testing true does this mean the armature field is bad? Any help is appreciated. Fox...
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