Hi renrut13,
You will have use a dremel tool with a small cut off wheel and very carefully cut the plastic cover off the chuck exposing the dogs that are arranged in a radially symmetrical pattern.Before going an further view this process for removing the chuck How to Remove a Drill Chuck : eReplacementParts.com.
Then you will have to very carefully rotate the exposed ring that goes around the chuck that tightens the jaws. If you look closley at the ring you will see three or four little levers that need to be pushed down for the ring to rotate and close.Don't break the ring or levers as you will not be able to close the jaws and will then have to cut the chuck off.Hope that helps .Good luck.
Tinker

Thanks Tinker,
The thing is, there is nothing plastic left on my drill chuck, it all came off. Can I just use a pipe wrench to loosen the bit end of the chuck? It looks like its about an inch-long collar that tightens the dogs that hold the bits.

Renrut13

Hi renrut13,
Well channel locks would be better.just be careful not to break the ring and be sure to push the locking levers down before rotating it.Good luck.
Tinker

Thanks again Tinker. But I don't see the locking levers you talk about. I see the grooved side of the dogs and three machined holes about 1/16" deep, but no levers at all.

Hi renrut13,
Some used levers and some were bands.Go ahead and rotate the collar and see if it moves.If not look for something to release the collar to allow it to turn.Good luck.
Tinker

Hey Tinker,
No luck with the channel locks. I guess you cutting the chuck of seems like the only solution. Any words of wisdom? Can I just cut the collar that seems to hold the dogs tight then access the screw that holds the base of the chuck?

Hi renrut13,
Cut the ring off and the pawls should come out of the front of the chuck.Remove the chuck screw ( left hand thread) Put the tool in drill mode and in 1 gear. The chuck is on right hand threads. use a pair of channel locks and see if you can remove the chuck.It seems that some of the chucks were put on with 271 loctite. If this is so you will have to carefully heat the chuck shaft and try again to remove it with a channel locks.Good luck.
Tinker

Hello FFColburn,

Here are a couple of articles and videos that might help you with your repair.

How to Remove A Drill Chuck.

How to Remove a Stuck Chuck.

Hope these will help,
-WJA

dewalt cord less drill model dc759 drill bit arms are stuck in the closed position

Hi Dom,

That screw has a Torx head rather than an allen. It'll take a T20 Torx screwdriver. We have a T20 bit available here:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/t20-torx-driver-bit-p-205785.html

This happened to me. It was half way between 1 and 2 speed. Make sure it is either on low or high speed.. all the way.

Hi Sean,

To bad about your drill's accident. Fortunately it should not be too hard to repair. The black piece that broke off is part of the switch assembly. You will need to replace the switch. It is part #152274-23.

We have prepared an article that I hope you will find helpful while replacing the switch. You can find the article at the following link...

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/948/Power_Switch_Repair_101.html

I hope this helps with your repair!

-Mark

Hi Hugo,

The smoke you saw most likely came from the motor. That is where I would start. The motor is part #397156-02.

Good luck with your repair!

-Mark

The chuck replacement process is relatively simple. We have a full walkthrough on our site (including a video) that applies to most keyless chucks. You'll want to check the "Threaded-on" section of our article here:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/890/Removing_a_Drill_Chuck.html

You'll need to start by removing the chuck screw, which is left-handed (meaning you'll have to turn it clockwise to loosen it), then put the biggest allen wrench you can fit into chuck. Tighten the chuck around the allen wrench, and secure the drill (preferably in a vise) before hitting that allen wrench counter-clockwise with a hammer a few times to get it loose. After that, you should be able to get the chuck off by hand.

The whole thing should hopefully take no more than a few minutes.

Our article will have any details I may have missed, and the video has been pretty helpful to a lot of people, so I'd still recommend referring to it before starting this project.

You can check the screw inside the chuck,maybe that had move out a bit and is causing the bits to wobble.

just a thought

[QUOTE=qdea;6728]You can check the screw inside the chuck,maybe that had move out a bit and is causing the bits to wobble.

just a thought"

It has the wobble coming from the gear box. I have the drill opened up and running it without the chuck on and see the wobble when I screw the chuck screw in with out the chuck. Help

Hey handyman61,
Most likely it is the switch..part #152274-23..but disassemble the housing for further inspection..[let your nose do the troubleshooting]:)
also inspect your battery and motor..
parts avail at eReplacementparts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair
hope this is helpful..
cmoorejack

I have a DC759 that has all the same symptoms. Mine was purchased new about 3 years back, have taken relatively good care of it.

hey guys,
You may have to replace the brush's on that one..part # 603754-01..the commutator [where the brush's may need to be cleaned also..could be build up and dirty] some of these cordless tools do have an odd ozone smell to them, nothing to worry about..the smell could also be coming from a switch starting to go bad..Anyhoo..check your brush's first..if they look ok..you may have a bad motor and will need to replace it..check your friendly neighborhood ereplacementparts.com for breakdowns,parts and availability...:)
Hope this helps..
Craig

Thanks for the info, I have ordered the brushes and will try to clean up the commentattor when changing the brushes. I assume you are saying that the smell may be coming from the switch......If that is the case I will only worry about the smell when it fails and just not use this drill indoors....the smell lingers forever. My biggest concerns right now are the sparks.....Hopefully the brushes help.

Yeah, thanks! Will give it a shot. For me the smell only began recently when the sparking started, so hopefully new brushes will sole the smell too (and yeah, it lingers alright!)

Hello, i also have a DC925 and it does the same thing as mentioned (bad smell, smoking, and sparks), but i also now have a loss of power. The tool is pretty much useless. does this sound like a bad motor/brushes?

Just a note to update everyone.......I finally received my new brushes and was able to find time to replace them. Outcome: My old brushes were deffinately worn and both lead wires were chaffed through in several spots (against motor case). I should have probably replaced both lead wires, but I just wrapped them in electrical tape, I then installed the new brushes and reassembled the drill........The drill seems to be working properly now. I am not going to say that all the smell is gone, but I would say it is atleast 98% gone, (might still be burning off a little residual), but I dont think it is an issue anymore. As far as I am concerned the new brushes have cured my drill issues. Thank you for everybody's comments!! Russ

Just a quick follow up: I had commented about similar problems with my DC759, and wanted to warn anyone reading this thread with that model that it has a sealed motor and the brushes can't be replaced. The motor and pinion are relatively inexpensive though ($26) part number 397156-02.

Also one of the common factors of this problem is the trigger switch. DeWalt has issued a recall that was posted at the entrance to Home depot. The problem was the triggers in these drills would burn up very easily. The wires that go from the trigger to the brushes would be what starts that burning smell. The insulation on the wire heats up so much it starts to melt and catch on fire. I had this happen to me twice. It would most likely happen when I was using it under extreme load like in the hammer drill setting or to drill large holes through thick wood. There is reason why the trigger switch is covered in copper because it was designed to dissipate heat. If you use the drill at anything slower then full speed the trigger (which is a potentiometer or variable resistor) is then required to decrease the voltage to the motor but maintain the current. The excess voltage is dissipated into heat which is why the drill gets hot under heavy use. The wires that run up to the motor from the switch are under sized and over heat under the current demand which starts to melt the insulation off of them. This heat also causes the trigger to fail or at least the variable speed part of it. I have Three broken DeWalt drills with all the same problem. The newer drills have alot larger of copper wrapping on the trigger switch which will hopefully alleviate the problem. Oh yeah One thing that causes fires the most is DIRTY DRILLS. Hit your drill with a blow gun inside the vents and every now and then or take it apart and clean it.Fire needs Three things to start. HEAT, OXYGEN ,and FUEL. so if your drill has a crap load of saw dust and grease from the motor in it clean it all out so theres is nothing to heat up except the original factory parts.

buildthings79-

Amen to that advice.... cleaning out your power tools is one of the best ways to keep them working properly. A little compressed air goes a long way.

Well you're in luck because this is a pretty easy repair. You'll need a #10 torx driver to remove the drill housing screws. Once you've opened the housing, simply unclip the two lead wires from the old switch and slide them onto the new switch. Then close up the drill and you're done. You'll want to make sure that you've put the wires on the same switch terminals or the polarity will be reversed.

Let me know how it works out.

Hey hobietrax,
not a quick fix on this one..there may be some internal damage causing it not to go past 5..you can separate the housing and look for an obstruction or you can make sure the collar is assembled correctly..[as far as you can tell]..part # for replacement of entire clutch is 623331-00..
hope this helps...:)
Craig

Hi nirs00. Unfortunately the brushes aren't replaceable on the Dewalt DC759 because the motor is sealed. The brushes are only available with the motor. It's a pretty inexpensive motor though, and it makes the repair really easy. Here's a link to the DC759 motor:

eReplacementparts.com : MOTOR AND PINION [397156-02] - $26.14

They're in stock and available for $26.14.

Hey bigcee352,
most likely your motor is bad..
part # 397156-02 available at ereplacementparts.com..
also check your switch for a burning smell..
hope this helps..:)
Craig

The DC759KA is the same drill as the DC759. The "KA" on the end means it's a kit that comes with a few things besides the drill: a charger, two batteries, a screwdriver bit and a carrying case. Regardless of what comes with the kit, the drills themselves are identical.

If your drill doesn't show a Type number on the nameplate, it's a pretty safe assumption that it is a Type 1, and the parts listed on our breakdown should work for it.

The transmission/clutch assembly is currently in stock, and it can be found here:

623331-00 Transmission/Clutch Assembly - $35.63

How do you know if it is the switch? My forward works, my reverse does not, is it the shifter or the switch?