How to Replace the Blades on a Hand-Held Planer
For a planer to do its job, you need to make sure the blades are as sharp as can be. This article will walk you through the steps needed to change your Planer blades so you always get the best perform...
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You just keep searching on line for one. Or find someone that has a planer not worth repair that they are selling or they are parting out. Unless you want a machine shop to make you one $$$
The switch in question part number 8166K21 is an aftermarket switch that we offer when the manufacture's part is on back order or no longer available. To answer your question it will work in your Delta 22-540 planer.
To remove the cutterhead pulley. You will have to remove the nut, part number 1343849. Sometimes they are on the shaft pretty snug. You can tap it with a mallet to get it off the shaft. But don't loose the 1343866 key that holds it on to the shaft.
Good luck,
-WJA
Reply: Delta 22-540
WJA
Hello poppajack,
To remove the cutterhead pulley. You will have to remove the nut, part number 1343849. Sometimes they are on the shaft pretty snug. You can tap it with a mallet to get it off the shaft. But don't loose the 1343866 key that holds it on to the shaft.
The gear box bushings (part #1343908 and shown as #25 on the diagram) are listed as discontinued by the manufacturer. Is there a after market supplier that has something that is an alternate that will work?
Even though the manufacture is not supplying the bushings for the the gear box. They are still supplying the complete gear box assembly. It is part number, 1343948. It is a little bit more money than just the bushings though.
I have a used planer and it seems to cut well but doesn't want to feed boards thru properly. Need to pull boards at times even when I'm only removing .005 to .010" of material.
I also notice a fair amount of play with the chains that drive the rollers, can this slack be adjusted ?
Any suggestions?
Most feed issues on planers are related to the condition of the feed rollers. The rollers will wear down over time and no longer make good contact with the workpiece. The rollers can become coated with sap or pitch, or even wood glue. This forms a hard, smooth surface on the roller that will no longer grip the wood being planed. I would start your investigation by inspecting the condition of your rollers.
Another potential problem, although much less likely, is the blocks that the rollers sit in. These blocks have spring tension on them and can move up and down. It is possible that the blocks can become stuck in their holders. Excessive sawdust buildup or even rust can cause them to get stuck. If this happens the rollers no longer sit as low as they should and therefore don't make the proper contact with the work piece.
The slack in the chain is normal.
I hope this points you in the right direction.
-UtahAV
-Mark
Reply: Delta Planer: 22-540
mark5333
I have had that problem in the past. I saw a article on "Wood Magazine" that suggested cleaning the feed rollers with laquer thiner and a wipe rag. It works great for me . Whenever the rollers get to slipping it is time to clean them.
I bought a used Delta 22-540 planer and can't locate a knife setting gauge. They're on back order at Delta. Any ideas on how I can set the knife height without one?
A company by the name of Woodstock International offers a knife setting jig sold under the name of " Mini Planer Pal ". Google that and you should be able to locate one in your area.
I need some help, my wife bought me a used delta planer 22-540 as a gift. It runs great as long as I only want to run 1/2 boards through it. I can't get it to raise up the heoight on 1 side, it is the opposite side of the handle. I don't want to upset her as she thought she was geting me a nice gift since I could not afford a new one.
The height adjustment system is basically made up from two adjustment screws, one on each side of the cutterhead and a rod underneath the planer base that connects the two adjustment screws. There are several things that could cause the system to no longer adjust the height. It could just be dirty. There could be rust binding up the adjustment screws. The gears that transfer the rotation of the adjustment screws to the lower rod could be damaged or are simply spinning on the shafts. Each one of these requires a different repair that is somewhat lengthy to explain. See if you can tell where the problem is occurring, in the gearing, where the adjustment screw meets the cutterhead, etc. and write back. I will see if I can help you solve the problem from there.
The nut that holds the larger belt gear that turns the planer drum keeps coming loose. I tightened it pretty tight with a narrow crescent wrench (only thing that I could get on it) but it keeps coming off. It is really hard to hold the drum/blades in order to get the nut really tight. I am afraid to put loctite on it in case I ever have to get the nut off. Anyone else have this problem before or can help me?
To tighten the nut you could removes the knives from the cutterhead, then take a piece of wood and wedge it between a groove in the cutterhead and the cutterhead housing. I wouldn't be too afraid to use some loctite on the nut. Loctite comes in several different formulas. Some are designed to hold but still allow the fastener to be removed later.
I need to replace the blades. I followed the directions but one screw is stuck on each blade. Can't get it to turn. I broke two 5/16" wrenches trying. Any suggestions?
Using a pointed punch and a hammer, drive the head of the bolt clockwise. Be gentle at first, using only as much force as you have to. Periodically use the wrench. It will give up after enough time.
I have had this planer for at least 8 years and over that period have had to disassemble the unit to clean and roughen up the rollers to keep them from slipping. Is there another method to produce the same results or do I need to replace the rollers?
Don,
I located a PDF copy of the service manual for this planer. It is:
link removed
Good luck,
Ed DeCarbo
Reply: Service Manual
EdDecarbo
Don,
Sorry about the deleation of the link for the service manual for the 22-540 planer in my previous reply. I hope this gets you to that website, link removed. Also the knife guage guide is no longer available.
Good luck,
Ed
My planer was given to me. I am a total novice to this. The fellow who had the planer plugged it in and it shot sparks out up to about 6 inches long. I did not catch the side they were coming from, but I think from the belt side. The belt has been worn in one spot, as if the belt was not turning and the motor was. Where should I start? I think that perhaps it could be the brushes in the motor, but I could not find any brushes online. I also can't read the plate as to whether it is a type 1 or type 2 machine. What effect does that have on ordering parts?
My planer did the same thing. A wood chip or some other foreign matter worked its way under the brush. I removed the brush and blew it out with air. That fixed the problem.
Reply: Motor Is Throwing Huge Sparks
Jack
June 12, 2010
While running a board through my planer it suddenly started throwing sparks out of the motor. I immediately turned it off. Inspecting the brushes I found they were badly chipped. Removing the brush holder and inspecting the armature I found one segment badly burned and was protruding above the others. A local motor repair shop advised scrapping the motor. Because of the high price of a replacement motor assembly. I opted to scrap the whole thing. My experience with this planer has not been very pleasant.
The Type number indicates a change was made to the tool during production. You can determine which Type number your planer is by the Model Number tag. The tag with the model and serial number will also list the Type number. It will usually be spelled out such as "Type 1 or Type 2". Sometimes it will simply be listed as "T-1 or T-2". Once you know the Type number you can be confident that you are ordering the correct parts.
Your planer included a knife setting gauge. If you have misplaced the gauge the replacement is part #1343917. To set the knives you loosen all of the gib screws on the gib bars. Set the gauge over the blade and hold it tightly against the cutterhead. There are springs behind the blades that will push the blades securely against the gauge. Now you can tighten the gib screws as the gauge holds the blades at the proper height.
I haven't used it in a couple years and brought it out of storage and blew off the dust. On startup it screeched and squalled like a bansheee. I took the belt off and ran the motor which sounds fine. I am suspecting a bering in the cutterhead. Anyone ever do a bering change? How big of a job is it and are there any specific procedures?
From looking at the diagrams for your planer it doesn't look like it's hard to get to. You will probably need a 2 or 3 jaw bearing puller and maybe a bearing separator depending on how the bearings are on there. There are a few different bearings that it might be and they are kind of expensive so you might have to figure out which one it is so you aren't just throwing parts at it. If you didn't run it for to long you might be able to clean the bearings and put new grease in them. They might have just got some rust or the grease might have dried out from sitting.
Reply: Screeching From Delta 22-540
rsulvan
Sounds like a good place to start by cleaning and greasing. The one on the belt side seems easily accessible but am wondering if the drive chain assembly has to come off to get to that one or does the cutter head slide out.
Reply: Screeching From Delta 22-540
DoctorD
this is going to be fun 4 u .you need to take the gearbox off ,covers , lower gear rod,lift rod on the pulley side will need to be moved up and out of the way
Has anyone replaced a drive belt on the Delta Model 22-540, 12" x 5.9 portable planer. My manual with to where ever that one sock always goes!
The old belt torn and jumped off. Got the new one today, but have no idea how to intall it! How far must I tear it down. Dealer was no help. thanks for any help you can give me.
Never mind, I got it. Wasn't that hard. had to remove the side panel. I was able to just roll it on. Have run about 100 ft of red oak with no problems.
thanks
Hey asardboy,
There are a few things that could be wrong..first and foremost check your knives for dull edges..[be careful..! some knives are reversible and can be switched around..] check the rollers for wear or up and down play..[bushings can be worn] also check you drive gears for wear or damage,,
hope this helps..?
Craig
I bought this planer the first year it came out ,it has had miles of wood run through it on a regular basis and it has been durable, accurate and easy to use .For the price there is no better.
Roger B my 22-540 was bought in 93 alittle work horse. That snipe problem is a bad one i have found that when i pull up on the board just before it comes past the cutter head the snipe is not so bad to the point where you can hardly see it .give that a try trial an erra good luck
