Hi anyango,
The brush assembly lifts out of the drill by rotating the assembly half way between forward and reverse .Lift with light force as you rotate between forward and reverse and you should see two springs aline with groves and it should lift out.Check your field contact closely as they sometimes get burnt and will burn out a new set of contacts it the don't make good contact.Hope this helps.good luck.
Tinker

Hi valkokir,
If you overheated the tool and burned out the armature them most likely you have melted the plastic field housing and that is whats preventing the armature from being removed. If this is the case you'll have to replace both the field and armature. Hope this helps.Good luck.
Tinker

Thanks Tinker.
Well my description wasn't very good, I suppose. The drill operates great intermittently. The only thing wrong is a broken Switch contact (#74) it occasionally makes good contact and when it does, the drill works great. The contact connection is broken off in the terminal of the field coil and consequently, I need to remove the armature and field coil to repair. I just can't get the thing apart and I can't tell what it's hung up on. Quite frustrating.

Hi Valkolir,
You don't have to burn the motor out to get the field housing hot to melt or distort enough to prevent the armature out .If the armature moves freely around the housing then this is most likely what happened.
Tinker

You were spot on. I managed to pull hard enough to get the armature out and the plastic shielding on the field is distorted, preventing it from coming out easily.
Thank you very much for the help

Hi valkokir,
No problem I'm glade I could help. Have a happy Thanksgiving.
Tinker

Hello,

We have an article and video demonstrating how to remove a drill chuck. Here is the link.

Removing a Drill Chuck.

Hope this helps,
WJA

Chris,

My drill has a similar issue and I found that it shorted internally and burned the tab off the switch contact (part 74 above) where it connects to the field. It worked intermittently since the contact was still close enough to the terminal to occasionally male contact. My issue now is that I cannot get the armature out of the drill to remove the field and repair the terminal.

Hi Dave,

My first two ideas would be either the switch or the brushes. Sometimes the dust from drilling concrete will get into the brush holders and cause them to bind so the brush no longer contacts the armature.

Hope this helps!

-Mark

Hi gringucho,

Replacing your chuck is a very easy repair to make. You will need the new chuck, part #2608571060 which is available from ereplacementparts.com. We have an article available which will show you everything you need to know to replace your chuck. It even has a short video to show you how!

Here is a link to the article...

Replacing a drill chuck article and video


Hope this helps with your repair!

-UtahAV
-Mark

Thanks!!!!

Hey ticurse,
It doesn't look like your model # has a reverse screw to remove or a flat side on the spindle shaft to apply a wrench..so try this...make sure it is in low gear..[to provide the most resistance] lock the largest allen wrench [or chuck key] that will fit in the jaws..lay the drill flat on its side with the allen wrench turned up slightly and hit the allen with a sharp blow with a hammer [you may have to strike more than once]... :)
most repair shops also use an impact method
here is a video link that may also help..
link removed - How to Remove a Drill Chuck
cmoorejack

Hey edmoe,
You probably have a worn or broken connection..the two components that are involved is the brush holder assy 1-614-336-061 and the switch contacts 1-611-329-024 remove the rear cover and check to see if this is the case and which component you will need to replace..[maybe both]..
hope this helps?
cmoorejack

Thanks cmoorejack. I cleaned switch contacts and its working fine.
edmoe

Hey,
It might just be a problem with the switch lever and it is keeping it from becoming fully engaged in the drill or hammer mode..when you get inside look for a bent or broken tab on the lever.. hopefully you don't have any gear damage as that might not make it economical for repair..:(
Parts are available at eReplacementparts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair
hope this is helpful..
cmoorejack

I bought my drill 3 years ago at Rona in Canada.

6 Months later, I had the exact same problem; granted I was drilling into wood, but you'd think that the motor in the drill wouldn't have enough torque to kill the gears.

I went in for a replacement and I got a brand new spankin' drill ( same model ). Guess what? 1.5 years later ( and this time doing absolutely no hard drilling at all ), I'm back in the same situation. I was just drilling with a 1/8" bit through some concrete.

The low-speed gear is fine, but the high-speed gear does nothing. I can hold the chuck with my hand and the motor on the drill will keep spinning no problem.

The motor on this drill has way too much torque for its gears / internal components ( IMO ).

If the gears / components can't handle it, then decrease the strength of the motor so that it stalls before killing the gears. The transmission / gears should be the strongest of the two, not the other way around.

I find that with this drill, the marketing of 8.5A on the motor was probably more important to get it sold than the other internal components were. Given my problem and that of many on the web with the same model, I'd think a recall was in order, but then again, I'm just one person, who will think twice before buying another Bosch drill. ;o)

[QUOTE=ozy;4754]I bought my drill 3 years ago at Rona in Canada.

6 Months later, I had the exact same problem; granted I was drilling into wood, but you'd think that the motor in the drill wouldn't have enough torque to kill the gears.

I went in for a replacement and I got a brand new spankin' drill ( same model ). Guess what? 1.5 years later ( and this time doing absolutely no hard drilling at all ), I'm back in the same situation. I was just drilling with a 1/8" bit through some concrete.

The low-speed gear is fine, but the high-speed gear does nothing. I can hold the chuck with my hand and the motor on the drill will keep spinning no problem.

The motor on this drill has way too much torque for its gears / internal components ( IMO ).

If the gears / components can't handle it, then decrease the strength of the motor so that it stalls before killing the gears. The transmission / gears should be the strongest of the two, not the other way around.

I find that with this drill, the marketing of 8.5A on the motor was probably more important to get it sold than the other internal components were. Given my problem and that of many on the web with the same model, I'd think a recall was in order, but then again, I'm just one person, who will think twice before buying another Bosch drill. ;o)"

So I finally got to opening my drill as a result of the one of the plastic motor contacts burning out on me... $3.00 part - had to take the whole drill apart. *rolls eyes*

This gear thing is really the switch lever. I guess that after a few times of switching between gear 1 and 2, the spring in the lever starts eating away at the plastic and the spring looses force. As it turns out, it's preventing the gear from engaging. I'll be ordering the three parts that make up the whole switch lever. Total cost ~ $6.00.

Funny thing is that part #67 isn't listed on the site, so you can't order it...
One question: Is the bigger gear supposed to be really tight against the inner steel 'axle'? To turn it, I really have to grip it hard. The smaller gear runs around, like a knife through butter.

Hey skstang,
here is a previous post..hope this helps..?:)
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-repair/2033-how-replace-chuck-bosch-1199vsr.html
cmoorejack