I am having some problems reinstalling the spring

the switch has a circuit inside that controls the speed when you push it all the way in; it make a direct connection and it gives full power changing. it can solve the problem

Check the piston, and sleeve. Does it have any serious wear marks? If so, replace. I would put a whole service pack in it......all o-rings and grease. Not just the stiker o-ring.

Part number 821 has key pins on them.....I have seen them go bad. That will cause it not to spin. Also, check your knob adjuster....make sure it is activating modes.

The brushes wore out on mine. You can sand the commutator but I want to turn the armature on my lathe. I haven't figured out how to take it apart.

I would say power cord #1, brushes #2, switch #3.

Turn it all the way to the right.....till hammer and drill. Press the red button in, the knob should then move a little bit more, past the hammer drill mode. Once it hits the max pull the knob straight up. Booya!

When you say "How do you remove the assembly" Do you mean remove the assembly from the tool?or remove the striker assembly from 1616490060?
Tinker

Hi Rob,

I'll start with the leaking oil issue. The tool is lubricated with a heavy grease. When the tool is worked too hard and overheats the grease breaks down into an oil. Since the tool wasn't designed to be lubricated by oil there are no seals to keep oil in. To make the repair you will need to open up the gearbox, clean out the old grease and replace with new grease. The grease is part #1615430001. You will need about one and a half tubes.

The loss of power could be caused by a couple of things. Sometimes the variable speed switches like your rotary hammer uses will fail. The upper end of the switch will go bad which limits the top speed of the tool. The switch is part #1617200066 The other cause would be a bad armature. Inspect the armature for melted insulation or damage to the bars on the commutator. A bad armature will many times have a distinct bad odor. You will want to check the field for any damage as well. The armature is part #1614010112 and the field is part #1614220105.

Good luck with your repair!

-UtahAV
-Mark

Awesome!

Thank you Mark

Hey mrfixit,
Usually what happens is the grease is breaking down and the "oil" is separating from the grease..[sometimes from non use the grease will break down..] The seal is probably ok..but the part # is 1-610-283-019 lip seal...might as well replace if there is any doubt...and the grease is # 1-615-430-005
available at ereplacementparts.com along with a video on dis-assembly..:)
Craig

Thanks for that info I will definitly change the seal.

Still struggling with disassembly but am to the point where oil is pouring out. The front end of the unit did get warm to the touch after drilling a number of 1" holes into about 4" of masonry.

Two things:
1. I did not notice much clutch slippage during use but am assuming it was the source of heat forcing this oil out. I see others have had this same problem. Is this tool only suited for light duty?

2. Is this oil really grease that has liquified? How much of it is there? Do you just pack it full when rebuilding? Is there an assembly process documented somewhere or do I just reverse the disassembly process?

I've rebuilt quite a few tools over the years and, although most were fun to do, frankly some were just not worth the effort.

Honestly, at $140 to replace maybe this is just a throw away. My next one won't be Bosch.

Any encouragement is welcome.

Yes the oil leaking from the front is grease that has broken down. It is a light duty hammer. After removing chuck assm. turn the dial to its stop push the lock in with something and turn it another 1/8 turn and this will allow you to get it off unfortunatly I can't remember off the top of my head the direction you need to turn it. There are four screws in housing you will need a long bit to get to them. After removing them the housing will slide off the front. Be gentle doing this as the shifter assembly will fall out of place and if you havn't seen one before it may be fun getting it realigned. You essentially just want to lightly coat the barrels and o-rings. and heavily coat the gears. You should use the correct grease called for as incorrect grease will not work as intended too light and it will leak too heavy and it will gum up. the anvils need to slide properly thats what gives it the hammering action. I wouldn't consider it a throw away for $140.00 as a $10.00 in parts and an hour of your time will get it up and running again.

Hey Martel,
1. The striker stays ahead of the groove...
2. The problem is usually caused by a worn o-ring, loss of lubrication..
3. You will need to replace the o-ring..the striker needs to move somewhat back and forth in the chamber to build up a pneumatic force to "strike" against the striker pin..I use a lite air tool oil to lube the o-ring..you really don't want a build up of oil or grease in the chamber and some air has to escape so the striker can move..
as far as the grease required for the gearbox..part # 1-615-430-005 use the whole tube..
parts available at ereplacementparts.com
* not sure if there is a service pack for this model avail..none listed at Bosch website*
Hope this is helpful..:)
Craig

[QUOTE=cmoorejack;3095]
..the striker needs to move somewhat back and forth in the chamber to build up a pneumatic force to "strike" against the striker pin..I use a lite air tool oil to lube the o-ring....
as far as the grease required for the gearbox..part # 1-615-430-005 use the whole tube..
parts available at ereplacementparts.com
Hope this is helpful..:)
Craig"

Thanks Cmoorejack ! :) :) :) That was helpful ! I went to a hardware shop and bought a bottle of pneumatic tool oil and put a few drops on all of the O-rings, inside the piston's rear portion (this way, the oil will remain inside the piston/cylinder) and also around the piston/inside the sleeve assembly.

I tested the hammer drill with a 7/8 inch carbide bit in hard rock and it works !! Solid deafening blows !

But i won't take chances, i'll order a set of O-rings and a tube of grease.

BTW, anyone, what do you think of synthetic grease (the red stuff that smells awful) ? Also, do i use the same grease for the front slow-revving parts and the rear high RPM input gearbox ?

Thanks !

Hey dave7227,
You will have to pry off the rubber cap [#34] and then remove the retainer [#87] [snap ring pliers]..then everything will come apart...the replacement part # is 1-617-000-163..it comes with everything thing you need in kit form...avail at ereplacementparts.com..be sure and check out a parts breakdown for further info...hope this helps..:)
Craig

dave7227, we made a video on how to take the Bosch 11224VSR Hammer Drill apart. It needs be edited, but will be posted shortly.

Odie

Here is the video:

link removed to Disassemble the Bosch 11224VSR & 11228VSR Hammer Drills

Hey Wayne,
The tube of grease recommended by bosch is part # 1-615-430-005..45 ml [you can order it from ER]
It is a purple grease and looks good enough to eat..but..uh..just put it in your hammer drill..
[the grease is breaking down in your tool and leaking out as oil..your seal is still probably ok..]
p.s. you will have to disassemble the nose part of your tool to take the front part off to get inside the gearbox..
hope this is helpful..
Craig
Geneva Tool Repair

Thank you Craig, for your response.
I knew someone here had the answer. Since it's grease and not oil, I'll be ok for a while, but I'll order some of that purple lube.
I wonder if they made it from that darned purple dinosaur?
Best,
Wayne in Maine

i work for a company and all we use is bosch hammer drills. i have been to trying to repair some tools that go bad so we don't have to replace them all the time. i have a bosch 11224vsr that dose not run. anything i can check. i already checked the switch and that is ok. what else could be the problem. also i have a bosch 11222evs that runs but seems to lose power after just a little use. if anyone can help me with these 2 it would be great thanks.

Drumguy:
Here are some things you should check:
1) Is there continuity (use a meter) between each prong of the plug and the wire at the inside of the unit? (Sometimes the wire breaks though it looks "fine" outside.)
2) Are the brushes making good contact with the armature? (that can be the cause of it "losing power" or not starting to begin with) the armature should not be "burnt" but shiny
3) with the motor disconnected, does the unit gearbox turn freely? Too much drag or friction from a worn part or bearing can keep the motor from starting, or cause it to trip out almost immediately.

Hope that helps,
Wayne in Maine

what was your response to this question?

The new bosch bulldogs have a larger pinion on the armature to put up with the torque this unit puts out. They have also beefed up the gear sleeve. I have had no problems with the new units stripping these gears.