Multi-Tool: Lacks Power
If your multi-tool lacks power, then you aren't getting the most out of your tool. Our experts have narrowed down the most common parts associated with this symptom, and have provided instructions on how to inspect the part for signs of malfunction, and how to fix it quickly and accurately. The parts we suggest to inspect are the carbon brush, switch, power cord, armature and bearing. Don't waste money on hiring someone else to do a repair that you can easily do yourself. Refer to your owner's manual for detailed instructions for your model.
Armatures
The armature is the power-producing part of the motor. If your multi tool seems to have less power, it could be caused by the armature. To check the condition of the armature, and to perform tests, you will need to access it. To do so, begin by removing the collet nut, the collet and unscrew the front cap. Remove the brush caps on the side, along with brushes. Remove the screws and separate the two halves of the housing. Remove the power cable connector and take out the screws securing the motor assembly in place and then pull out the motor.
Separate the motor from the switch and circuit board. Slide the armature free from the field. Clean the armature only with electrical contact cleaner and then wipe dry. Inspect the armature for burn marks and melted insulation on the windings. If there are burn marks, or melted insulation, on...
Separate the motor from the switch and circuit board. Slide the armature free from the field. Clean the armature only with electrical contact cleaner and then wipe dry. Inspect the armature for burn marks and melted insulation on the windings. If there are burn marks, or melted insulation, on...
The armature is the power-producing part of the motor. If your multi tool seems to have less power, it could be caused by the armature. To check the condition of the armature, and to perform tests, you will need to access it. To do so, begin by removing the collet nut, the collet and unscrew the front cap. Remove the brush caps on the side, along with brushes. Remove the screws and separate the two halves of the housing. Remove the power cable connector and take out the screws securing the motor assembly in place and then pull out the motor.
Separate the motor from the switch and circuit board. Slide the armature free from the field. Clean the armature only with electrical contact cleaner and then wipe dry. Inspect the armature for burn marks and melted insulation on the windings. If there are burn marks, or melted insulation, on the armature, you need to replace it. You can test the armature to check its condition.
There are three tests to use when checking an armature. The first is a continuity test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. Attach one end of the ohmmeter to the shaft, for ground, and the other to the bar on the commutator. Move the probe to each bar on the commutator, checking all the bars. If the ohmmeter shows a reading on one of the bars, this will indicate a short and a bad armature.
The second test is a bar-to-bar test, determining resistance. Attach one probe to a bar on the commutator and the other probe on the bar right beside it. There will be a specific reading for this, depending on the design of the armature. But, most importantly, there is not a large fluctuation here between the values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, this will indicate a broken, or burned out, wire in the coil. If the resistance drops, then there is a short. Move around the commutator, checking each bar.
The third test is the 180-degree test. Attach the two ends of the ohmmeter on the commutator bars, directly across from each other. There will be a specific set of readings for this, depending on the design of your unit. Again, what is most important is that there is not a large fluctuation in values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, that would indicate a broken, or burnt out, wire. If the resistance drops, that would indicate that there is a short. Continue this test on all the bars. If an armature fails any of these tests, it is recommended that you replace it. Slide the armature into the field and connect the switch and the circuit board then reinstall it into the housing. Secure the motor and power cable connector in the housing. Rejoin the two halves of the housing back together. Reinstall the front cap back, the collet nut and collet. Reinstall the brushes and caps.
Separate the motor from the switch and circuit board. Slide the armature free from the field. Clean the armature only with electrical contact cleaner and then wipe dry. Inspect the armature for burn marks and melted insulation on the windings. If there are burn marks, or melted insulation, on the armature, you need to replace it. You can test the armature to check its condition.
There are three tests to use when checking an armature. The first is a continuity test. With the armature removed from the unit, stand it up on a bench. Attach one end of the ohmmeter to the shaft, for ground, and the other to the bar on the commutator. Move the probe to each bar on the commutator, checking all the bars. If the ohmmeter shows a reading on one of the bars, this will indicate a short and a bad armature.
The second test is a bar-to-bar test, determining resistance. Attach one probe to a bar on the commutator and the other probe on the bar right beside it. There will be a specific reading for this, depending on the design of the armature. But, most importantly, there is not a large fluctuation here between the values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, this will indicate a broken, or burned out, wire in the coil. If the resistance drops, then there is a short. Move around the commutator, checking each bar.
The third test is the 180-degree test. Attach the two ends of the ohmmeter on the commutator bars, directly across from each other. There will be a specific set of readings for this, depending on the design of your unit. Again, what is most important is that there is not a large fluctuation in values, which would indicate a fault. If there is an increase in resistance, that would indicate a broken, or burnt out, wire. If the resistance drops, that would indicate that there is a short. Continue this test on all the bars. If an armature fails any of these tests, it is recommended that you replace it. Slide the armature into the field and connect the switch and the circuit board then reinstall it into the housing. Secure the motor and power cable connector in the housing. Rejoin the two halves of the housing back together. Reinstall the front cap back, the collet nut and collet. Reinstall the brushes and caps.
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Bearings
The bearing is a device used to enable rotational, or linear, movement and reduces friction and handles stress at the same time. When a bearing wears out, it will produce a grinding, growling or a rumbling sound and will be accompanied by a vibration. A seized, or partially-seized, bearing will produce a heavy load on the motor, resulting in less power from the motor, and can cause more damage to the multi tool.
To check the bearing, remove the collet nut, the collet and unscrew the front cap from the multi tool. Remove the brush caps, along with the brushes. Take out the screws and separate the two halves of the housing. Remove the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly and remove the motor. Separate the motor from the switch and slide the armature out of the field. Remove the rubber ring on the lower bearing....
To check the bearing, remove the collet nut, the collet and unscrew the front cap from the multi tool. Remove the brush caps, along with the brushes. Take out the screws and separate the two halves of the housing. Remove the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly and remove the motor. Separate the motor from the switch and slide the armature out of the field. Remove the rubber ring on the lower bearing....
The bearing is a device used to enable rotational, or linear, movement and reduces friction and handles stress at the same time. When a bearing wears out, it will produce a grinding, growling or a rumbling sound and will be accompanied by a vibration. A seized, or partially-seized, bearing will produce a heavy load on the motor, resulting in less power from the motor, and can cause more damage to the multi tool.
To check the bearing, remove the collet nut, the collet and unscrew the front cap from the multi tool. Remove the brush caps, along with the brushes. Take out the screws and separate the two halves of the housing. Remove the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly and remove the motor. Separate the motor from the switch and slide the armature out of the field. Remove the rubber ring on the lower bearing. Spin the bearings – looking for a seized, or partially-seized, bearing. Bearings should spin freely, with no noise. Also, if the bearing spins rough, makes noise or has play, replace it.
To replace the lower bearing, use a bearing puller. Wipe the shaft clean and install a new bearing on the shaft, tapping it in place with a hammer and a socket. To avoid damage to the bearing, only use a socket that contacts the bearings inner race. Reinstall the rubber ring.
To replace the upper bearing, use a bearing separator to remove it. Place the separator under the bearing and then lay the separator on an open vice and tap the shaft free of the bearing. Use a mallet, or a brass hammer, to avoid damaging the armature shaft. Hang on to the armature shaft so it does drop on the floor.
Clean the shaft and install the new bearing by placing a socket on the bearings inner race, tapping it in place with a hammer. Slide the armature back in the field. Reconnect the switch and the circuit board and reinstall back in the housing. Secure the motor in place with the power cable connector. Reconnect the housing back together and screw the front cap back on and install the collet and the collet nut. Reinstall the brushes and caps.
To check the bearing, remove the collet nut, the collet and unscrew the front cap from the multi tool. Remove the brush caps, along with the brushes. Take out the screws and separate the two halves of the housing. Remove the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly and remove the motor. Separate the motor from the switch and slide the armature out of the field. Remove the rubber ring on the lower bearing. Spin the bearings – looking for a seized, or partially-seized, bearing. Bearings should spin freely, with no noise. Also, if the bearing spins rough, makes noise or has play, replace it.
To replace the lower bearing, use a bearing puller. Wipe the shaft clean and install a new bearing on the shaft, tapping it in place with a hammer and a socket. To avoid damage to the bearing, only use a socket that contacts the bearings inner race. Reinstall the rubber ring.
To replace the upper bearing, use a bearing separator to remove it. Place the separator under the bearing and then lay the separator on an open vice and tap the shaft free of the bearing. Use a mallet, or a brass hammer, to avoid damaging the armature shaft. Hang on to the armature shaft so it does drop on the floor.
Clean the shaft and install the new bearing by placing a socket on the bearings inner race, tapping it in place with a hammer. Slide the armature back in the field. Reconnect the switch and the circuit board and reinstall back in the housing. Secure the motor in place with the power cable connector. Reconnect the housing back together and screw the front cap back on and install the collet and the collet nut. Reinstall the brushes and caps.
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Carbon Brushes
The carbon brushes supplies power to the armature by riding on the commutator. The brushes are a wear item and will eventually wear down over time and with use. When this happens, it can impact their performance and supply less electricity, causing a loss of power – especially if one brush wears out before the other. To fix this, you will need to remove the brush caps and pull out the brushes. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, are worn and need to be replaced. Any brushes that are worn unevenly will also need to be replaced. Install the new brushes and reinstall the brush caps.
The carbon brushes supplies power to the armature by riding on the commutator. The brushes are a wear item and will eventually wear down over time and with use. When this happens, it can impact their performance and supply less electricity, causing a loss of power – especially if one brush wears out before the other. To fix this, you will need to remove the brush caps and pull out the brushes. Brushes 1/8 of an inch, or less, are worn and need to be replaced. Any brushes that are worn unevenly will also need to be replaced. Install the new brushes and reinstall the brush caps.
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Power Cords
Remove the collet nut, the collet and the front cap. Remove the brush caps on the side and take out the brushes. Separate the two halves of the housing and remove the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly in place and then lift out the motor. Separate the switch from the motor. Remove the wires by inserting a small pick next to the wire then pull out the wire and pick together. With the new cord, you may have to strip ¼ of an inch of insulation from the wire, if it did not come stripped. Install it into the switch by pushing the wire ends in. Reconnect the switch to the motor and place the motor assembly back into the housing. Secure the motor and cable connector into the housing and reassembly the housing. Reinstall the cap, collet and the collet nut.
Remove the collet nut, the collet and the front cap. Remove the brush caps on the side and take out the brushes. Separate the two halves of the housing and remove the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly in place and then lift out the motor. Separate the switch from the motor. Remove the wires by inserting a small pick next to the wire then pull out the wire and pick together. With the new cord, you may have to strip ¼ of an inch of insulation from the wire, if it did not come stripped. Install it into the switch by pushing the wire ends in. Reconnect the switch to the motor and place the motor assembly back into the housing. Secure the motor and cable connector into the housing and reassembly the housing. Reinstall the cap, collet and the collet nut.
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Switches
The switch controls the flow of electricity to the motor. Over time, the switch will wear and sometimes cause more resistance within the switch, putting out less electricity to the motor, resulting in a loss of power. To inspect the switch, remove the collet nut, the collet and the front cap. Remove the brush caps on the side and remove the brushes. Separate the two halves of the housing. Take out the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly in place and lift out the motor. Separate the field from the switch. Remove the wires by inserting a small pick next to the wire and pull out the wire and pick together. Inspect the switch for indications that it is failing, such as burn marks, melting on the switch or anything else out of the ordinary. Install a new switch if you notice any of these conditions....
The switch controls the flow of electricity to the motor. Over time, the switch will wear and sometimes cause more resistance within the switch, putting out less electricity to the motor, resulting in a loss of power. To inspect the switch, remove the collet nut, the collet and the front cap. Remove the brush caps on the side and remove the brushes. Separate the two halves of the housing. Take out the power cable connector. Remove the screws securing the motor assembly in place and lift out the motor. Separate the field from the switch. Remove the wires by inserting a small pick next to the wire and pull out the wire and pick together. Inspect the switch for indications that it is failing, such as burn marks, melting on the switch or anything else out of the ordinary. Install a new switch if you notice any of these conditions. Install the wires into the switch by simply pushing them in. Reconnect the switch to the motor and place everything back in the housing. Secure everything in place. Join the two halves of the housing together. Install the front cap, collet, collet nut, brushes and caps.
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