Snowblower: Won't Start

The stop switch prevents the engine from starting unless you insert the key. This switch prevents the spark plug from receiving current when the key is removed. Replace the stop switch if the engine runs when the key is removed, or the switch prevents the plug from sparking when the key is inserted. All switches will vary from model to model, but to procedure will be similar to the following advice. Remove the chute gear box support bracket. In order to replace the stop switch, next you should remove any covers or heat shrouds to gain access to the rear of the cover that houses the stop switch. Next, disconnect the wires on the back and press in the tabs holding it in place, and remove. Install the new switch by snapping it in place and re-hooking up the wires. Reinstall any covers and heat shrouds that you removed to gain access to the stop switch. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket. Reapply the tension on the drive belt and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Ensure the holes in the gear box coupler face straight up and the chute faces forward. Check that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position before reinstalling the rod to complete the repair.

The carburetor mixes the air/fuel together to the proper mix for combustion. First, locate the carburetor. Its position and the method for breaking it down will vary slightly from model to model. If needed, start by removing the chute gear box support bracket, then remove any covers or shrouds to gain access to the carb. You may have to pull off the handle bars to get some covers off. Locate the bolts holding the carburetor onto the engine and air intake and remove. Remove the choke lever carefully. Pinch off the fuel line to prevent a fuel spill, then remove the fuel line. Once you’ve disconnected the fuel line, un-pinch it to check for fuel flow to the carburetor. Next, slide the choke control plate off the carburetor and disconnect the linkage from the control plate, then the carburetor. Next, disconnect the throttle rod return spring and remove the throttle rod from the carburetor. Next, clean out the carburetor, as they can become gummed up over time. Use carburetor cleaner and a soft brush for the inside, then reinstall the carburetor. Check that the choke valve is functioning properly. It should be closed to allow the air/fuel mixture to be rich for starting. If the cable has become stretched, replace it by locating the mounting points on each end and removing the cable from these points, and replacing it with a new cable. Check that all the springs are there, making sure none have broken off. Refer to a repair guide for your model for proper spring hook up.

The fuel filter is located between the fuel tank and the carburetor, and eliminates debris from entering the carburetor and engine, causing damage. If it becomes clogged it will prevent the flow of fuel. You can remove the fuel filter by gently twisting the fuel line off both ends and blowing through it. There may be an arrow indicating the correct direction of flow. The fuel filter should be replaced yearly as regular maintenance, as it is inexpensive, easy to replace, and key to good engine performance.

The purpose of a gasket is to seal two joining pieces tightly together, sealing off air and fluids from entering areas they don’t belong. A damaged gasket below a carburetor will pull excess air into the cylinder, causing the air/fuel mixture to be lean, which could result in a no-start situation. To check this, you will have to pull the carburetor off – a procedure that will be slightly different for every type of snow blower, but will be similar to the following advice. Start by removing the chute gear box support bracket. Next, remove all the covers and heat shrouds around the engine. For some models, the carburetor will be exposed and you won’t need to bother removing anything. With the carburetor exposed, undo the bolts that hold it in place, as well as the bolts around any intakes, and remove any linkages and fuel lines. It’s a good idea to pinch off the fuel line ahead of time to prevent leakage. Check the condition of the gasket; look for tears, rips, or any indications of leaks. Gaskets are a one-time use, so you will need to install a new one at this stage. Reinstall the carburetor, hooking back up the linkages and the fuel line. Unpinch the fuel line now, as it’s safe to do so without creating a mess. Reinstall any covers and heat shrouds around the engine. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket. Reapply the tension on the drive belt, and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute, using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up with the chute facing forward, and that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position, then reinstall the rod.

The spark plug’s task is to ignite the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. To check the plug, remove the wire from the spark plug and be careful when doing so, as they are fragile. Remove the spark plug and check its condition Spark plugs’ normal color should be a light brown or gray. Clean the plug and re-gap to the manufacturer’s specifications. Spark plugs should be replaced once a year, as they are inexpensive and part of regular maintenance. Check for any deposits, breakage, melting, dry or wet fouling, and corrosion. If you see any of these symptoms, replace the spark plug and gap to the manufacturer’s specs. If the spark plug is wet from fuel, you have flooded the engine. Dry off the spark plug, then reinstall, and wait a few minutes before attempting to start again.

The primer bulb allows you to pump fuel into the carburetor, making it easy for the engine to start up when it’s cold. You should only ever need to press the bulb twice to start your snow blower. If the primer bulb is cracked, leaking fuel, or you can hear air entering when pushing on it, then the primer bulb is not functioning properly and it will need to be replaced, especially if leaking, as this is a fire hazard. To replace, start by using a small flat-head screwdriver to pry out the old primer bulb, then install a new primer bulb by using a larger flat-head screwdriver to carefully tuck the edges back into place in the groove. On some models, there may be a clip around the bulb that you can remove with snap-ring pliers. On some models, you may have to remove the cover that the primer bulb is housed on in order to remove it from the back. You will need to disconnect the fuel line and push the pins in with pliers to remove the unit. Once removed, pull off the old primer bulb, then reinstall the new bulb onto the unit then reinstall into the cover, remembering to hook the fuel line back up. Next, reinstall the cover onto the machine.

The key turns the ignition switch to the “on” position, allowing current to flow to the spark plug, and in some cases, supplying power to the starter if the unit has an electric start. To replace the key switch. Or ignition switch, start by removing the chute gear box support bracket. To do this, remove the clip holding the chute control rod, then remove the rod itself. Next, remove the pin on the support bracket and pull out the pin, remove any nuts securing the gear box, then remove the gear box and chute. Remove the bolts securing the belt cover, and remove the belt. Release the drive belt idler pulley tension spring, then remove the bolts securing the gear box support bracket, and remove the bracket. Remove any covers or heat shrouds to gain access to the rear of the cover that houses the stop switch. Exactly how many covers and shrouds you will need to remove will vary from model to model. Next, disconnect the wires on the back and press in the tabs holding it in place, and remove. Install the new switch by snapping it in place and re-hooking up the wires. Reinstall any covers and heat shrouds that you removed to gain access to the stop switch. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket. Reapply the tension on the drive belt, and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up, with the chute facing forward, and that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position. Reinstall the rod.

Carburetor kits contain all the components for stripping down and rebuilding your carburetor. We have included this part not because it will cause any problems, but because it is a great way to keep your engine running smoothly and efficiently. When rebuilding the carburetor, it’s a good idea to take pictures of all the parts as your take it apart so you’re aware of where they go during reassembly. A quick note, also, that the following procedure will vary from model to model. Please take it as a general guide to tearing down and rebuilding your carburetor, and follow your owner’s guide when applying it to your own snow blower. Start by removing the chute gear box support bracket. Next, remove any covers or shrouds around the carburetor so you can gain access to it. You may have to remove the handle bar to pull the covers off. For some models, the carburetor is already exposed, so you will not have to remove anything to gain access to it. You may have to remove the handle bar on some models to pull off the covers. On other models, you may have to remove the throttle knob, disconnect any switches and fuel lines on the primer bulb, and remove that particular cover. Locate the bolts holding the carburetor onto the engine and air intake, and remove. Remove the choke lever carefully. Pinch off the fuel line to prevent fuel spill, then remove the fuel line and slide the choke control plate off the carburetor and disconnect the linkage form the control plate, then the carburetor. Next, disconnect the throttle rod return spring and remove the throttle rod from the carburetor. The carburetor should now slide right off. Lie on a bench and start disassembly by removing the nut on the bowl then remove the bowl and gasket. Next, remove the float pin and the needle valve. Unscrew the main jet screw and dump it out with the emulsion tube, then remove the plastic throttle stop and the metering plug out of the carburetor. Spray the carburetor, fuel bowl, and all the small orifices with carburetor cleaner, then wipe clean. If you notice any corrosion inside the carburetor or the bowl, it is beyond repair and you will need a need carburetor. Reinstall the new emulsion tube and new main jet and tighten. Install the new metering plug down tight and reinstall the throttle stop screw and thread until it sticks out the other side about 1/16 of an inch. Next, install the new spring on the needle valve and snap the new needle valve into the new float and reattach the float into the carburetor by sliding the new pin in. Install the new bowl O-ring and reinstall the bowl and tighten down. Once rebuilt, reinstall the carburetor and the gasket onto the engine, reattach the throttle cable and fuel line. Un-pinch the fuel line. Reinstall the cover that houses all the knobs, switches, and the primer bulb, making sure you hook everything back up correctnly. Reinstall all the covers and shrouds and the handle bar. Next, reinstall the gear box support bracket, then reapply the tension on the drive belt and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the gear box and chute using the pin and retaining clip. Make sure the holes in the gear box coupler are facing straight up with the chute facing forward, and that the chute control lever is in the one o’clock position then reinstall the rod.